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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings to all, adn please bear with me i'm a bit new at all this. (never had to think about fixing a gun before)

i recently had the 10/22 i first learned to shoot with passed down to me by my father. the gun is at least 30 years old maybe more. and i now have a few questions.

first off what are teh symptoms of the recoil spring wearing out?? during my last trip to teh range i started noticing that the sound of the action cycling was a slight bit more "harsh" than i'm used to, and there have been a number of FTFs and stovepipes during the past few range visits. and i'm begining to suspect that after 30 years that the spring is giving up the ghost.

if this is as i fear the case. my intention is to buy the whole a assembly (don't even know if it comes as just the spring). is there any reason to NOT buy the standard factory replacement part version? are their other brands that give a better "service life" , smoother operation, etc. keep in mind that the gun in question is NOT a match rifle, just a simple plinker that has been part of my life for longer than i can remember.

any info or advice is apreciated gents :)

thank you
 

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I do a lot of 10-22 work and have never seen a spring wear out as you suggest. FTF could be caused by faulty ammo that does not have primimg compound completely around the rim and you hit a "dead" spot, dirt and grime not letting the bullet get all the way seated inn the chamber and a bad firing pin are a few things. I would get a Volquartsen extractor and that should stop your stovepipes. Clean the gun, esp the bolt face and the ext slot in the bbl, make sure that the ext is working properly in the bolt and is not full of dirt and grime and that you do not have a damaged firing pin and you might want to try different brands of ammo and see if the problem persists. Best,
 

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have you given it a real good cleaning? Something tells me to ask you that. I'm not trying to belittle you or anything, I'm just wondering if you've had the bolt and everything out of the reciever and given it a good scrubbing? If you have done this, I'm absolutely no help to you at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes i gave it a good scrubbing, thought that might be the problem seeing as how the action (esp aroudn the breech face) looked like a soot pile (dad hadn't cleaned anything but the bore in about 2 years, two large moves NC-MS and then MS-FL kept him from getting to it ) . didn't solve the problem

BTW FTF = failure to feed, i'd forgotten that some folks use it to mean a misfire (failure to fire) neither i nor my father have had any misfires since we stopped using remington ammo in the gun. about anywhere between 1 and 5 times out of every 20 or 30 rounds, the bolt closes on an empty chamber, without even trying to strip a new round (rather like it never got far enough back or had insufficent "hang time" to let he new round top out to be stripped) It does so with both the two older magazines and the brand spanking new one i bought 3 months ago.


now to tell the truth i maybe wrong about cause, the gun seems to be having trouble with the bolt rebounding early, or bouncing back hard and fast after an impact with the rear bolt stop (not sure of correct name, the rearmost pin, that stop rearward bolt travel, that so many are keen to Buffer. BTW there is no sign of peening on this pin nor the hole(s) it passes through). but the same ammo works fine in the newer (2 year old) 10/22 that i bought for myself before dad passed his on to me. so i don't think it's really an ammo issue. but i WILL be trying an new batch soon.

this gun probably has upwards of 300,000 rounds through it (about 200-250+ rounds a week average for close to 30 years), adn still has all the original parts except for the original magazine (father dropped adn lost, the first mag in a creek while squirrel hunting in Louisiana). that's why i suspect worn out springs even the best eventually wear out. AND i can hear and feel the bolt hitting the rear cross pin fairly hard, which started at almost the exact same time as the feeding and ejection problems.

any further input, suggestions etc appreciated. i just want the gun to work. :( :confused:
 

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If someone gave me a 30-year old 10/22 with 300,000 rounds through it, the first thing I would do is detail strip it, give everything a thorough cleaning, and replace every pin and spring in the gun. You're talking about $20 to $30 dollars worth of parts here, not exactly a big investment for a rifle that's given 30 years of service. Then see if the problems persist.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
craigz said:
If someone gave me a 30-year old 10/22 with 300,000 rounds through it, the first thing I would do is detail strip it, give everything a thorough cleaning, and replace every pin and spring in the gun. You're talking about $20 to $30 dollars worth of parts here, not exactly a big investment for a rifle that's given 30 years of service. Then see if the problems persist.
this IS being considered.

so as i said in the starter post. IS there anyreason to go with the Power Custom or other non-ruger brands of replacement kits?? (though i know, i do NOT want the power custom "extended bolt handle")
 

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If you are experiencing failure to feed a new round, and if nothing else has been changed, it sounds as though it's time for a magazine tune up. The subject has been raised uncountable times here, so a little work with the on board search engine should tell you more than you need to get it working like new. In all probablility, it will just amount to a dissassembly, cleaning and correct retensioning of the spring inside.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
the precise sequence of "stuff changing/happening" was like this....


gun starts sounding "crunchy" on recoil, as stated sounds like the Bolt is hitting the botl stop harder than it should, also until that sound started i never noticed or expericened a "jarring sensation" during recoil/operation. but i passed it off as my imagination.

gun begins to stovepipe about once envery few magazines full,
rate of stovepipes increases to the point where there is at least one in every 10 rounds, and sometimes half the mag does so. i think "ok probably the ammo, i can stand this till i shoot this brick up and get a new one".

gun begins to have Failures to feed. with two dofferent magazines.

i have one session where i have 2-4 out of every 20 rounds fail to extract (round is fired but the brass is still in chamber extractor hasn't latched on to the rim). annoyingly this happens on the day i FINALLY get my wife back out to shoot!!! i get critical of what maybe causing this and notice the amount of fouling in the action/breechface area. and realize that my father hasn't cleaned the thing since january of '98!!
upon return home gun is stripped and cleaned, then lubed. i also notice that the bolt handle is now comes loose from the spring and guide assembly, and even after a careful once over to get any gunk off the asembly, and a little lube, the spring and bolt handle are still a little balky during compression to reinstall the bolt.

after cleaning the stovepipes and failures to feed continue at aproximately the same rate, but there are no more extraction troubles since all the crud is out of the extractor and extractor slot now.
 

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Chief says : very interesting .
BEEN THERE MYSELF / usally a well broke in 10-22 will be
better than a new one, having all the parts mated and used
togather fer years . makes a favorite setting.

As you stated the charging handle coming off the rod and spring.
This can be cured by (hammer and punch ) notice where it was
secured before on the rod. Re -dent this same area.
Now a gritty feeling return rod and spring can be cured with a
bit of good metal polish .
THUS SO, can be applied to the bolt (top ,bottom and sides).

Do check ( the screws =" scope mount") look at the inside top
of the receiver . These screws can sometimes cause friction
on the bolt. If so " file them off -flush".

Extractor ( Volquartsen ) is the best . will assure you of better
quality extraction when action gets dirty.

Clean chamber - a must for shooting less than high velocity ammo. The HV gives ample back pressure to work the action.
Some target ammo or subsonic ammo will cause problems if
your action is dirty. CCI minimags are excellent and reliable
for hunting and plinking.

Magazine = the heart of the 10-22 .It feeds - it ejects the case,.
as you look at the action , see the small metal lip on the magazine. It is the EJECTOR. the secondary ejector is in the trigger group , there only to eject the case should the weapon be fired without the magazine in place. hand cycle a round. watch
closely = it ejects from the mag , then feeds.
If your magazine hangs a round = sticks in the magazine =
clean it - readjust the tension - 18-20 flats. back off the torque
on the center shaft 1/4 turn . it may feel loose - thats ok.
it will feed better.
NEW MAGAZINES are the pitts = each one needing more tension
than is applied at factory.

Bolt Buffer ( dakotan style) couple bucks well spent here.
get the orange one. lasts ferever.

REMEMBER magazine , clean chamber - heart and lungs of 10-22
Chiefdave
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
gun is at the smith's for a once over, he'll call me with his findings and tell me what his advised course of action is, then give the gun back and not charge me a cent for his time to do so, (said something about not taking money from a repeat customer to fix a gun that i could fix myself in 10-20mins if i knew WHAT to replace). so i shold have a diagnosis within the week.

Dave, interesting tidbit on the scope rail screws. don't think that's the trouble considerig the same rail has been in place since the week dad bought it. but who knows the dipstick that mounted and boresighted the scope last time (replaced the foggy K4 dad had on it from when the original Tasco got broken, with a simmons) may have gotten stupid.

BTW is there a diagram/ instructions for takig the Mag apart?? i'm almost afraid to....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
cool thanks


now which one of y'all has a set of detailed "mag adjustment for dummies" instructions stahsed away some place :D :D

still kinda scared to mess with it b/c at the moment i only got the one.... (and no it's not the original mag either,)
 

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Magazine Service

Detritus,
now which one of y'all has a set of detailed "mag adjustment for dummies" instructions stahsed away some place :D :D
Right at the top of this Forum is a 'sticky' thread entitled:
"Sticky: Sticking Magazine [Magazine Service] "

I'd try there for starters......! ! :eek:
 

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Detritus said:
so as i said in the starter post. IS there anyreason to go with the Power Custom or other non-ruger brands of replacement kits?? (though i know, i do NOT want the power custom "extended bolt handle")
To answer your question. Go ahead and get the Ruger factory part. Less than $10 bucks from Brownells for the standard one IIRC. Nothing wrong with the factory springs, etc. A lot of people oreder the magnum bolt handle and put it on the Factory rod/sping to get a larger handle. We still use the factory rod and spring. FYI, you can not order just the spring. The spring, rod, and bolt handle come as an assembly. The only spring I've replaced on any of my 10/22's is an extra power hammer spring I put on ONE of my rifles. Didn't make much difference that I can tell. I still get a failure to fire once in a while with cheep ammo in that gun too.

I would still do the mag tuneup and all the other stuff suggested by the folks above if you havn't already done it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: Magazine Service

BigMike said:
Detritus,

Right at the top of this Forum is a 'sticky' thread entitled:
"Sticky: Sticking Magazine [Magazine Service] "

I'd try there for starters......! ! :eek:
ok i'm new AND a doofus :eek: lol

seriously reacently all i've been here for was to read the replies. hadn't browsed yet.

thanks
 

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BigMac said:


A lot of people oreder the magnum bolt handle and put it on the Factory rod/sping to get a larger handle. We still use the factory rod and spring.
I will second the getting the magnum handle assembly and putting it on the factory rod. The shortness of the factory handle was one of my biggest complaints about the original gun. Everyone that has seen it since I replaced the original has said they were going to do the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok problem solved, time to go berate my father for his cleaning practices! the dern thing only needed a good soaking of the bore in Lead remover!! i don't think my father had cleaned the thing in close to 3-4 YEARS, adn i've only had it since Nov. adn just started shooting it reacently and never even thought about dad haveing left the bore that leaded up. though I will say that on visual inspection the bore didn't look "dirty" or "leaded up".



ok i feel REAL stupid now. but as i said i never thought dad would be that lax in cleaning!!:rolleyes:
 
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