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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I pillar bed the only action screw do you leave the wood alone that the bolt is drilled for? In other words when you install the hollow metal tube does it fit between the action and the wood or does it fit between the action and the trigger floor plate? Also, do you have to attach the end of the tube to the action or just glass or epoxy the tube at the wood end?

I am also seriously considering putting another action bolt by removing the rear wood screw behind the trigger and pillar bed to the rear tang which would have to be drilled and tapped. Any ideas on this idea? Maybe and easy way out would be to use the barrel lug welded to the tang and pillar bed off that for the rear action bolt.

Going to talk to an old gunsmith tomorrow nite to get some ideas and maybe talk him into doing this if the price isn't to bad.

One more question. As far as bedding the barrel, how far forward should I go from the chamber? I want to remove the barrel lug completely. I am tired of messing with it.

cz 22 varmint, barrel completly floated to the chamber.
 

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Mike,

I haven't gone as far as you are suggesting. I just glass bed the front and tang of the receiver. That by itself really solidified the action since everything front and rear is flat bottomed as far as the inletting goes. For the barrel I just went about an 1 1/2" in front of the receiver. I've seen some posts about bedding up to the balance point of the barreled action, but mostly just 1 to 2" in front of the receiver seems to be the accepted practice. My varmint tightened groups up just a little, but I'm satisfied that when I R&R the barreled action everything returns to where it came from. I'd be curious to here about your results. Pictures that Mad has posted in the past with the pillars just look like there is minimal room for error with the little amount of wood around the varmint action screw. By the way, I'm just using the action screw and not the barrel lug. Keep it posted.
 

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The pillar sleeve should span the distance between the reciever and the floor plate. The sleeve is bedded into the stock and become permenant but it does go through to touch the bottom metal.

I have am American and a Silhouette done this way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks slingshot, ray and frank. Very good info and pictures. Answered my question on the pillar bed length. I haven't decided on welding on a rear tang and pillar bedding it or just weld on a lug and bed it into the stock. With a 22's low recoil I would probably do just fine with a lug bedded in the stock and not bother with 2 action screws. Just pillar bed the existing action screw and weld a long lug on the rear tang and bed it tightly.
Thanks again, everything helped a lot. I am also going over to a smith tomorrow nite to get his advice.
 
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