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Thanks @Mark1964
Have to admit it took nearly 2 hours of hacksaw work to get the rough shape and then 1/2 hour of file work for the final shape.
The polishing (after I took the photo) was about another 20 minutes.
But I'm retired, so no real $$ cost for my time.
One of the guys at the local club liked it so much I had to make him one as well.
Not much $$ value in it for materials, just time.
 

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As I said before it was the butt not the cheek piece photos don't really do it justice but you only have to look at them to realise that it is bending the rear of the cleaning Rod up I don't know if the CZ are mounted higher in the chassis but I doubt it because you wouldn't have much trigger sticking out the bottom this is one of the very early ones maybe the rear of the newer ones doesn't sit so high now , .I don't know.
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Again this is on a Howa 1500 223 but I would gather Centreline of bore would be approximately the same for most
 

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As I said before it was the butt not the cheek piece photos don't really do it justice but you only have to look at them to realise that it is bending the rear of the cleaning Rod up I don't know if the CZ are mounted higher in the chassis but I doubt it because you wouldn't have much trigger sticking out the bottom this is one of the very early ones maybe the rear of the newer ones doesn't sit so high now , .I don't know.
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Again this is on a Howa 1500 223 but I would gather Centreline of bore would be approximately the same for most
Yes mate, it's the same with the Oryx chassis and my CZ457.
I did 2 things...bought a Lowey bore guide, and use a .17 cleaning rod now.
Yes the .17 rod still bends, but it's slimmer and 'bendier'.
Do a final dry out before each match with a pull-through.
It never occurred to me until I saw your photos, that it would be easy enough to whip out a groove along the top of that butt stock to allow the rod to run through nice and straight.
It's only alloy and a patient man with a file (or a Dremel) could do that job in about an hour.
The butt-plate is plain old plastic and rubber...easy as.
You 'might' lose that wee top screw that holds the plastic side plate on, but they are a tiny screw and won't go in too far so should be fine. You will only be cutting about a 1/4" groove along the top.
I recall that the old Martini BSA rifles had a groove cut through their lovely walnut stock for the rod to pass through.
A wee mod I did to mine was to make the thumb rest area a tad fatter. I only shoot rimfire benchrest with my CZ, and I don't fully grasp the pistol grip.
Instead I have my fingers lightly curled around the pistol grip, and rest my thumb out on the right hand side. Makes for a better trigger pull.
Just a wee bit of aluminium, filed to shape, buffed up on a buffing wheel mounted in my drill press, and then glued on with JB Weld.
It's rock solid.

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I just found a tricky wee 'problem', but it's not an Oryx fault as such.
Well, it was a problem for me...yesterday I went for my regular indoor match (first time with my new Sightron Slll 45x45 scope).
Could not get a good sight picture while at the bench. Had to force my head down on the cheek rest (and naturally threw a shot).
Could not get the cheek rest down any further so I removed it and finished the card by resting my cheek on top of the bare chassis (a neck injury means I need to rest my head on the stock...can't just hover it lightly in place).
Checked it when I was home and found that the right hand side of the plastic cheek rest was bottoming out on to the 2 adjuster 'wheels'.
A quick filing job removed 1mm of plastic along that edge and all is well now.
These 2 little devils are the problem (the black plastic adjuster knobs for the cheek rest height). May not bother anyone else...depends on your scope/mount situation.
The photo shows the clearance I had with my previous scope/mounts, but the new setup is lower than this now, and so the cheek rest needed to be lower too.
Just something to be aware of...and yes...I should have checked it all first after fitting the new scope, but I just wanted to get out and shoot!

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
How do you like the Arken? I’ve been looking at them.
I only have one at the moment but I do have one of the new EPL’s on order. Nice target scope with a fine floating dot reticle. The only other scopes I have are from Meopta. Originally, I had Vortex but didn’t care much for the reticle or the tight eye box.

Once the Oryx arrives, the Pro Varmint S.R. will go on topped with some 30mm CZ rings ant the Arken.
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Then eventually, the Mask HD Suppressor will come home and then…happy days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I’ve got an Athlon Midas 5-25 on mine but I’m not crazy about the reticle. I’d love to look through an Arken and check out their reticle.
Those Athlon’s are a little to expensive for my taste.
I bought the EP5 because it had Japanese glass and the EPL will come with also. I have no experience with the SH4 series.
 
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