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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, lets say youre new to shooting.
youre about to purchase your first 10/22
you really don't want to shell out $300 for a new trigger assembly (ie, Kidd), but still want to improve over the factory installed.

what is a good option?

For instance, I see lots of things for sale that seem to be just new levers and springs that are about $30... Just a few parts instead of a whole new assembly. Are these any good? Is it worth replacing this stuff?

I'm not interested in competition or anything. Just an upgrade to the standard so the trigger takes less pressure. What are my options?

Thanks

-Brew
 

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the first option is a VQ trigger assembly, the TG2000, it'll run you 180 bucks or so.

the other option is wait until the search function is back up and running in the forums and do the following:

- replace existing hammer with the VQ target hammer
- do the clickster pen spring trick
- make your own auto bolt release
- make your own extended mag release
- do the JB Weld sear mod
- you can even do your own overtravel adjustment screw in the trigger
 

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stratcat said:
- replace existing hammer with the VQ target hammer
- do the clickster pen spring trick
- make your own auto bolt release
- make your own extended mag release
- do the JB Weld sear mod
- you can even do your own overtravel adjustment screw in the trigger
I'll second the above ...... 35 bucks or so covers it all. Check with the RFC sponsors on the VQ hammer, Wal-mart for a tube of JB weld and the pencil spring you can swipe from work ..... I didn't just suggest he swipe something did I?

Dave Z.
 

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DO NOT BUY THE SEAR........

......I bought both the sear and hammer (volq.), and the trigger was actually worse than it was with the factory sear. I now have the factory sear (polished) in with the volq hammer and have a <2 lb trigger pull. Very little take up and no creep.
 

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I got the UltraMatch Hammer and Sear and a bunch of other stuff in the trigger and it is nowhere near as good as the one with the simple VQ hammer and the mods listed above.

The all VQ parts setup $145...2 lbs.

The trigger with the mods listed above $60...1 lb .
 

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Easy, buy a "Clickster" mechanical pencil.

Break the plastic exterior and remove the little spring near the bottom.

Replace the spring behind the trigger plunger in the 10/22 with the clickster spring...instantly lighter trigger pull.

You can polish the back of the trigger to get it smooth, then polish the plunger.
You can also flip it around...put the plunger in the little hole in the trigger guard, and put the spring on top of it. This way, the spring makes contact with the rear of the trigger.

Sometimes, this will not be strong enough to reset the trigger, but you can play around with the spring until you get it right.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
"clickster"... is that a brand name?
does this one have a specific spring that works better than the others?

/edit:

also.. how is replacing the hammer going to improve the trigger pull? I dont know a lot about rifles yet.. the course I took only covered pistols.

Would someone be willing to do a quick summary of the list and what each item actually does? For instance:

"the clickster pen trick: replaces a spring, thus requiring less strength in the trigger pull"

Don't need a full howto or anything, I'll search those out on my own. Just looking for a little info on what these things actually are. I'm a total newb remember :)

thanks

-brew
 

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I have used a Volquartsen trigger kit and also a Clark custom trigger kit and a friend bought a Power custom kit. I can say that for some reason Volquartsen has a lot to be desired compared to the others. I like the Power custom kit best after a little polish job, it felt great. As for doing the other Mods I have never tried them (I like the old buy a drop in method). Don't get me wrong I can do a little gun smithing, but when it comes to trigger work I have to say it scares me, especially to see some guy at the range showing off his rifle and on the bench it fires when it is bumped or you simply flip the safety off. I don't mind polishing here and there, but grinding and filing needs to be left to the competent. (For safetys sake). Be careful I have seen some near miss accidents because of trigger work done wrong. I don't want to read about you in the newspaper, other than winning the nationals in shooting or bagging the worlds record largest rabbit or squirrel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks for the concern.

rest assured that to start, I won't be doing anything other than replacement parts. I mean, you gotta take it apart to clean out all the factory preservatives anyway, right? Swapping one part for another shouldn't be a big issue.

Speaking of which, while the thing's apart, what other "simple" things are recommended to toss in there? Keep in mind I have 0 firearm background and am building my info from scratch here :)
 

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On the topic of polishing... Whats the best thing to use? I would like to polish my trigger and sear assembly but I do not have much experience on the matter. I've already replaced most of the springs with a Power custom kit, but I would like that extra edge....:t
 

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Spiderman6 said:
What are you using to test your trigger pull? I replaced my springs and there is a very noticable differance but I really do not know how many pounds...:confused:
I am using a Lyman digital trigger pull gauge. It may not be perfect, but it is more accurate than most things I have seen. The most accurate measure uses weights hung from the trigger. Check out Brownell's for the different types of gauges. I bought mine from MidSouth.
 

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It depends on how rough or smooth the hammer, trigger and sear and other components are. As a rule of thumb usually 800 grit sandpaper to start then I move up to 1500 or more grit.
After a few minutes of the sandpaper rub, I break out the dremel
and a polish wheel with some polishing paste and hit it for a few minutes till its a mirror. Remember not to wear down the surface were the hammer, sear and trigger hold onto each other (engage) just polish it. Also were the rear hammer spring retainer rest in the hammer polish this good.
 
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