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New Maple Sport Heavy - First range report with pics and problems.

6126 Views 22 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Hawkeye57
I finally had to try a Kidd barrel and trigger kit :rolleyes: Hate to admit it, but they rock! I had originally set this action into a Raptor stock, thinking I would call the build "Me2" because it was pretty typical and represented my final capitulation to the Kidd crowd, but then a great deal appeared in the TPC on a custom Maple stock with varmint characteristics. I devised a plan to make the gun a SuperSport Heavy instead of an Ultimate, though it may push the envelope a little :eek:

Anyway, as you can see, the stock rides the bags pretty well, though I need to make a flat pad for the front rest instead of the U-shaped bag it came with, as the forend has a flat bottom. The butt area is really thoughtfully shaped, with a nice curve to adjust the point of aim with a little sliding on the rear bag while still maintaining stability. Great design! Props to Mkling :bthumb: I love the flutes in the forend, though I hesitate to call them "fingergrooves" because of the overall width making an encircling grip unrealistic. They are great for a front thumb hold against the rest, though, and really break up what could have been a blocky area! The stock has an aluminum pillar, BTW, and the action centered nicely with no adjustment by shimming.
The grip area feels great, but finger placement on the straight trigger could be better. I think a curved trigger might feel nicer; future change perhaps.

Ruger OEM Silver receiver and TG
JWH bolt and handle
Kidd 20" fluted stainless barrel
Kidd trigger kit
Mueller APV scope
Leupold rings

I did have a couple of hammer following events and one slam fire, with the corresponding bullet hole marked on the target. I wonder if the pin holes in the OEM TG may be causing Kidd hammer and sear to mis-align, with not enough bite to be safe. These problems occurred early, and then seemed to disappear. One very odd thing is that a loaded magazine will not seat under a closed bolt without very firm pressure - I can clearly see that the top round is hitting the underside of the bolt and being marked. Locking the bolt open during loading eliminates this conflict, and empty mags seat fine. The stock is not dragging on them, it's definitely hitting the bolt.

50 yard target, intermittent wind, and Eley target and SK+. Groups were shot pretty quickly, left to right, top to bottom. Black dots on target are .5". I am no great shooter, but I think the gun did its part, though I would like another try. A truly calm day would be nice; I tried to wait and shoot between breezes, but don't think I did my best overall. I have a sense that this barrel is more consistent than my others - fewer flyers maybe. Anyway, what do you folks think?

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scrub..scrub.. then scrub the chamber.. that blow out looks like un-supported NOT in battery.. also, the fact you are getting lite strikes AND bolt slam ignitions says dirty chamber.
That is the most common reason OOBD but because of the description of the problem I am not as sure about this as I would usually be. Always a possibility though.:bthumb:

It would ALWAYS be the first thing to do in ANY OOBD that is certain.
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scrub..scrub.. then scrub the chamber.. that blow out looks like un-supported NOT in battery.. also, the fact you are getting lite strikes AND bolt slam ignitions says dirty chamber.
Chaser! :) I appreciate the help, but these were not lite strikes in the conventional sense in that the hammer did not fall (I removed it for proving purposes). Rather, the firing pin was marking the primer when the bolt was dropped on an already chambered round, and the rim edge was being crushed by the bolt itself, causing the round to fire IN battery. During the test, the chamber was clean, and the rounds were inserted easily and fully by hand. I was trying to compare the effect of the JWH bolt VS OEM bolt, and while the JWH bolt produced this worrisome discharge, an OEM bolt assy did not.

As mentioned earlier, Vincent's tip about the magazine seemed to be key - having a mag in place prevented the JWH bolt from crushing the rim and firing the round. I did not like the continued firing pin strikes, however, so we just run an OEM bolt in her gun now :)

As for how the JWH system can allow the firing pin to hit the primer merely from bolt-closing momentum, I do not know. It still bothers me to know that if I chamber a live round and let the bolt slip, my MapleSport Heavy gun might fire, but this is a scenario that doesn't really happen during use; I insert a full mag, shoot all the rounds, and never really have cause to load the chamber manually.

Thanks again for all your help, folks, your comradeship and wisdom are deeply appreciated! :) :) :D
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Have you removed and compared the JWH, and OEM firing pin ?
I would measure overall length, and the distance from the step where the spring contacts the pin, to the front tip. I would also compare the springs. Just for curiosity, while I had them apart, I would weigh the bolts.
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