The Acraglas glassbedding was done in two stages. It involved placing a pillar made from a piece of steel golf club shaft (roughened) at the rear screw. The Acraglas had great amounts of hand-cut fibreglas insulation in it to keep it from running and to provide extra strength. (IMHO, Acraglas binds to wood better than the gel and putty types of bedding compound.)
A piece of sheetrock screw (used as reinforcing steel) was inletted about a quarter of an inch on each side across the action slot, just behind the rear action screw and below the sear. That will keep the stock from spreading when the stock screw is tightened.
The action is bedded fully, as is the barrel from receiver through about 1 1/2" beyond the lug. The lug was relieved top, bottom and all around, so the barrel can bear evenly on the bedding and the barrel is free to expand and contract with temperature. The flat spots of the barrel near the lug were filled with clay before bedding so only the rounded barrel surface is in contact.
The stock swell and shrink shouldn't affect the barrel bedding much. (I was originally going to bed the rear of the lug, but decided to relieve since the action provides a recoil surface at the rear and positive stop at the front to assure accurate positioning within the stock.)
An Acraglas pressure-pad was placed in the forend with about 7 lbs of uplift. After setting up, the bottom and sides of the pad were routed out, leaving 3/16" X 1" long pads at 4 and 8 o'clock. Should the stock warp a little, the barrel will still self-center. The bottom of the barrel channel was also routed out 3/16" wide and 1/32" deep - to spread force to the bottom third of the bedding on each side.
The barrel lug screw has a lock washer to allow some adjustment in pressure. The pressure pad will provide "spring loading" by bending the barrel a bit when the barrel screw is tightened, assuring good contact between barrel and pad. The rear screw is tightened down pretty hard.
(See next post.)
John