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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I had my Buckmark out to the range for the first time today, and it is brand new and unfired. Accuracy is great, the issues there is the idjit behind the trigger.

I have several stove piping issues, several errors similar to a stovepipe, basically it starts to eject and the slide closes and an empty casing is basically held parallel to the next round.

A couple times feeding oddities where the round turned at an angle and jammed with the bullet up too high and jammed above the chamber.

3 times it did not even attempt to extract, and the slide would be sticky, then i would cycle it again the empty casing would extract.

I know ammo can be a hot topic, and depending on who you ask, its all crap. I am using Norma Tac22 1100fps, its pretty accurate so far, but I am not sure if the reliability issues are ammo, or gun?

Advice, suggestions, things to look for on my Buckmark?
 

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Sounds like it might have some "gunk" (anti-rust / lube) they put in the from the factory. I would suggest giving it a good cleaning, and lube it properly...not too much.

Without taking it apart to do; maybe try putting some lube where the bolt moves on the frame. Easy to do, lock the bolt back (to the rear), and put some lube (rem oil might be a good option in this situation since it's pretty thin) on the slide/frame. Then just work the bolt back and forth and see if it frees up.

A better option; even though the manual says not to, is to field strip it and give it a real cleaning, then proper lube. Be warned, putting a Buckmark back together can be "challenging" (read: PITA)...especially the first time you do it.
 

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It 's possible that the main problems you are experiencing are due to your choice of ammo ! From past experience with my own Buckmarks - and other pistols and rifles - I have found that the Tac-22 variety is slightly tighter in the chamber, both before and after firing. Although it is definitely a better choice, accuracy-wise than the more commonly used CCI SV and Mini-Mag stuff, it is a brand to avoid in the already tight chamber of a Buckmark.

Fuzzy
 

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Sounds like it might have some "gunk" (anti-rust / lube) they put in the from the factory. I would suggest giving it a good cleaning, and lube it properly...not too much.

Without taking it apart to do; maybe try putting some lube where the bolt moves on the frame. Easy to do, lock the bolt back (to the rear), and put some lube (rem oil might be a good option in this situation since it's pretty thin) on the slide/frame. Then just work the bolt back and forth and see if it frees up.

A better option; even though the manual says not to, is to field strip it and give it a real cleaning, then proper lube. Be warned, putting a Buckmark back together can be "challenging" (read: PITA)...especially the first time you do it.
I would agree with this advice. I usually fill a spray bottle with mineral spirits and flush the action with it to get any factory grease out without having to take the gun apart. Remove the left hand grip to get into the nooks and crannys, but leave the right hand one on as it holds some parts in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, it looks like I have some cleaning to do, I will start with that. As for spray lube, Rem Oil? I have been told that is not a good choice on things with tight tolerances, I do have some One Shot dry lube, would that be better here?

Mineral spirits in a spray bottle, not a bad idea, i will give that a shot as well.

I can try different ammo, i do have some minimag. I bought this specifically because that was recommended by other Buckmark owners in person, because that's what they use.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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My buck wouldn’t runs best with ammo over 1200 fps. Blazer, CcI mini mag , Aguila, even cheap federal. Changing to a TK extractor got it running stuff at 1070.

Also, if you use a high thumbs grip , it’s easy to lightly rub the slide with the thumb . I found myself doing this … it only took me 3 years to realize it ….
 

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Clean it deep and lube the slide with a lite grease.
Clean the mags also, they can make a big difference in function.
Good ammo also helps.
Good luck with the pistol.
Be very careful on disassembly/reassembly, parts have a tendencies to move around.
 

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Yep. Brand new, some sticky factory lube (or even metal particles) and the ammo. Clean well and try whatever ammo you may be able to find. Don't hesitate to use a bronze brush and solvent in the chamber.

M2HB introduced me to Eezox years ago, and I love it. The quart I bought several years back is still over 3/4 full.

I recently cleaned a slide and used Eezox for swabbing the holes, but then got the brake cleaner out to blast the loosened crud out. When that was done, a light coat of Eezox.
 

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The 'stovepiping' that you describe suggests that there is excessive friction on the spent shell casing as it is being driven rearward by expanding gas from firing. Crud is certainly a possibility, but if a thorough chamber cleaning fails to correct the problem,then here's something else to look for:

Check for a firing pin 'dimple' or indentation that has been caused by dry firing at the 12 o'clock position of the chamber opening on the breech face. If you find one, it's possible that enough displaced metal from the dimple has peened into the chamber's opening and is responsible for causing excessive drag on the spent casing.

I've seen several cases of this on even supposedly 'new' guns. Excessive dry firing at either the factory or the LGS is the culprit.

Happily, correcting this problem is an easy fix. Let us know if you need more info.
 

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Well, it looks like I have some cleaning to do, I will start with that. As for spray lube, Rem Oil? I have been told that is not a good choice on things with tight tolerances, I do have some One Shot dry lube, would that be better here?

Mineral spirits in a spray bottle, not a bad idea, i will give that a shot as well.

I can try different ammo, i do have some minimag. I bought this specifically because that was recommended by other Buckmark owners in person, because that's what they use.

Thanks for the suggestions.
The Rem Oil I have is in a small bottle with a folding tip...not spray. It's not very good lube, but it is very "thin viscosity", which could help free up the action without taking it apart. That is the only way I would suggest using it.

If/when anyone takes a Buckmark apart for a proper cleaning, use a good lube when putting it back together. I have a couple different ones, but usually use "M-Pro 7 Gun Oil LPX".

Edit add: I do have some Rem Oil in a spray can, I keep that in my shotgun range bag for when we're shooting trap, sometimes my original Browning BPS 12 ga needs a little thin lube to keep the action smooth.
 

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A few other things to check (if still having the issue after cleaning and lubricating)...

1) Make sure the top rail screws are tight. The rear one in particular has a tendency to back out. Blue or purple loctite solves the problem and still allows removal later.

2) Hold the gun tight and keep your wrist and elbow stiff/strong when shooting. Not doing so is called "limp wristing", and can definitely lead to stovepipes. This is more of a problem with lighter guns. Just 2 weeks ago, I watched a new shooter stovepipe 4 rounds in a row with Buckmark Challenge Rosewood, and she was getting pretty frustrated. I picked up the gun and it worked perfectly for 10 rounds in a row. Limp wristing it was the problem. Holding harder was the solution.

3) Make sure your thumb is not touching the slide release (aka slide stop, aka stop open latch) button while shooting. Pushing up drags on the slide. Pushing down prevents the slide from staying back when the mag is empty.

Dave
 

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Everything that rads says

A few other things to check (if still having the issue after cleaning and lubricating)...

1) Make sure the top rail screws are tight. The rear one in particular has a tendency to back out. Blue or purple loctite solves the problem and still allows removal later.

2) Hold the gun tight and keep your wrist and elbow stiff/strong when shooting. Not doing so is called "limp wristing", and can definitely lead to stovepipes. This is more of a problem with lighter guns. Just 2 weeks ago, I watched a new shooter stovepipe 4 rounds in a row with Buckmark Challenge Rosewood, and she was getting pretty frustrated. I picked up the gun and it worked perfectly for 10 rounds in a row. Limp wristing it was the problem. Holding harder was the solution.

3) Make sure your thumb is not touching the slide release (aka slide stop, aka stop open latch) button while shooting. Pushing up drags on the slide. Pushing down prevents the slide from staying back when the mag is empty.

Dave
I experienced all the same problems, but putting locktite on the rear screw on the receiver solved all the ejection problems. Before that I had polished the feed ramp and chamber, put in a volquartsen extractor, and tuned the magazines. I still had problems until I used locktite. I was about to sell it, but liked the feel and trigger. It is my most accurate pistol of the four brands I shoot.
 

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A better option; even though the manual says not to, is to field strip it and give it a real cleaning, then proper lube. Be warned, putting a Buckmark back together can be "challenging" (read: PITA)...especially the first time you do it.
Getting it together is irritating, watching it spontaneously disassemble itself is educational.
 

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Getting it together is irritating, watching it spontaneously disassemble itself is educational.
Problems taking it apart and putting it back together has never been an issue for me, and I have 12 thumbs. A couple of screws, and lock washers??? The recoil rod and buffer??? What's the biggie?? That's as far as I go, or need to go. A heck of a lot easier than my Ruger semi autos!!!
 

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Well, it looks like I have some cleaning to do, I will start with that. As for spray lube, Rem Oil? I have been told that is not a good choice on things with tight tolerances, I do have some One Shot dry lube, would that be better here?
Breakfree CLP is among the top tier products, if not THE best, IMO. They've been around for over 25 years now & I've used them almost exclusively. Never had a single issue from this lube.

Brownells, Midway & lots of gun shops carry it. I buy the big bottle as it's more economic. I use long pipe cleaners to apply lube in the slide channels & hard to reach places. It also won't harden with time & age, which not all products can claim.

My .o2
 

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Mine was like that out of the box. It was shaving lead on the bottom lip of the chamber and that was causing frequent light strikes, feeding and ejection issues as the chamber would gunk up quickly. Look at the bottom edge of the chamber for a sharp transition at the top of the feed ramp. Shoot a few rounds from a full mag and extract one that cycled once in awhile.to see if it's scraping lead. I bet the ones that don't fully chamber or had light strikes scraped lead. The power of the hammer goes into seating the round and not crushing the rim.
 

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I shoot CMP Bullseye every Wednesday and my 15 year old is in need of an extractor (on the way)I shoot CCI 1070fps. And the key is to keep it clean,I bought one of those oilers with needle point on it. Best thing ever pin point oiling to keep from over oiling. Also try a different ammunition if possible,feel the bullet some are oily like Norma Tac 2 and some are heavy wax. If so a extra cleaning is in order. With a new or used it’s always a challenge.
Oh yeah,get the Striplin guide rod and your c-clip worries are over!
 

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I shoot at least 100 rounds of cheap bulk ammo out of my Buck Mark every week. All I do is run a Carbon C4 Bore Tech-soaked patch through the barrel and then use a BT soaked old toothbrush on the bolt face and breach face. Every once in a blue moon oil the side rails and extractor with a drop of Eezox. I've never had any failures to extract or eject unless you get dud round. I must have 20-25,000 rounds through it.
 
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