New Bedding compound Idea

2002 Views 9 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Fumbler, Jan 31, 2003

2396

Discussion Starter · Jan 29, 2003

I was sitting through my bonded structures class today and we started talking about hot glue and its uses. Got me thinking... What if you use hot glue as a bedding compound? If you mess up just heat it and it comes off and try again. Granted not for a full auto gun or a big cal semi but what about a 22 bolt action? I dont even think a 10/22 gets hot enough to re melt the glue. I just wonder about its shock properties? Plus I dont know if you can set the action fast enough before it sets up. Probably have to use a heat gun or hair dryer to keep warm. I might have to buy an old mauser or something to try that out.

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2810

· #2 · Jan 29, 2003

I was thinking of bedding with silicone a while back. Then I realized I need to bed with a material that has no deflection. Otherwise, the receiver will still flex a little bit as the trigger is pulled. Hot glue is firmer, but still pretty flexi.

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428

· #3 · Jan 29, 2003

Matt,
as I recall ... this subject came up a little while ago as a solution for bedding Hougue & other synthetic stocks. General consensus at the time (as I recall) was that it was worth a try.

Something else that was suggested was that "space invader" foam (insulation) that sets really quickly - again mainly for the synthetic stocks.

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Wee Hooker

· #4 · Jan 30, 2003

epoxy

Two part plumbers epoxy putty ( the kind that comes in a two colored stick) works good for me. I've done a few Marlin bolt guns with it.
Mouldable, manageable , dries hard w nil shrinkage.

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Fumbler

· #5 · Jan 30, 2003

I'm still waiting for enough time and money to waste to do my project.
I plan on one day making a plywood trough that the whole gun will fit in.
Cut a hole at the bottom for the trigger/magazine well, somehow make a hole for the ejector slot, then filling the whole thing with concrete

Screw some plywood feet to the front and make a third adjustable foot in the rear and take that baby to the range to see what it can do.

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147

· #6 · Jan 30, 2003

Rather than encase the entire gun in concrete or epoxy why not just the barrel from muzzle to receiver. That way the bullet will be within a protective wall all the way out to the muzzle. It would vastly simplify the process.

Of course once encased it may be difficult to aim the monster...

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3178

· #7 · Jan 30, 2003

Here's one I found on the web.
I did it to my inaccurate Ruger 77/22 Hornet, but haven't shot it yet.

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From Lloyd de Vore/Canuck Publishing - [email protected]

The recent thread on Fluxes reminded me of a rifle bedding trick learned from the Kiwis at the 1979 Palma Matches at Trentham (Upper Hutt), New Zealand

Flake Rosin, dissolved in alcohol until it is a syrup, is handy substitute for epoxy bedding of actions to stocks, and has several advantages over epoxy. (Dissolved rosin, of course, is nothing more or less than old-time furniture glue.)

It works very will, particularly with wood stocks. It will not fill large gaps like epoxy will, but works better than epoxy where a fairly close fit already exists.

To use it, simply pour some dissolved resin into the area of the stock you want to bed, and assemble the barreled action to the stock. Wait overnight for it to thoroughly dry before disassembling or shooting the rifle.

The advantages are:

No release agent is required. To disassemble the rifle, simply hit the bottom of the barrel a good whack with the flat of your hand. Most Kiwi and Aussie shooters I knew did not disassemble their rifles between shoots, because doing so broke the bond between stock and rifle. They were essentially shooting "glue-ins", with the advantage that they were easily "unglued". (An alternative method of release is to put a large pin punch in the bottom of the front action screw hole and give it a tap with a hammer, on actions with a "blind" hole.)

The resin is thin enough to easily penetrate wood some distance and strengthen the area under the bedding. It shrinks VERY little and fills every pore of the metal/wood it touches … producing a good bond unless the action is really highly polished.

Each time the rifle is disassembled, a thin "paint" coat of rosin can be reapplied to the existing bedded area. It will "melt" the surface of the resin already in place, so the bedding doesn't get thicker …. it just re-adheres to the action as it dries.

Available at real hardware stores as "flake resin" or "flake glue" (make sure you don't get some modern, compounded substance), this stuff is CHEAP. Enough for seventy-seven rifles will cost you a few bucks.

The Kiwis/Aussies considered this one of their "accuracy secrets" for high-power competition. Maybe it will work for you …

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Fumbler

· #8 · Jan 30, 2003

Rather than encase the entire gun in concrete or epoxy why not just the barrel from muzzle to receiver.

I would encase the entire thing to take out absolutely all play between the trigger group and reciever and between the reciever and barrel.

Hehe, I doubt I'd waste a gun on a project like this (don't have the kinda money Chief puts into his guns).
It would make an awfully heavy squirrel gun.

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Chief Dave

· #9 · Jan 30, 2003

Wanna go overboard? Take a plastic five gallon bucket and bore a .920" hole in the center of the bottom and the lid... put the barrel in and fill it with concrete..

Aiming it would be the mother of all pains, but the groups fired should be interesting!

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Fumbler

· #10 · Jan 31, 2003

Just set a scope on top embedded into the concrete pointed somewhere near the same spot (I guess you could bore sight it).
Once you get that thing pointed at one spot it should be so heavy you won't need to use the scope but once lol...

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