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need some help

381 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  gitarmac
Well i built my 1st ultimate and i took it to the range today. Loaded up the mag and put it in the gun pulled back the slide and took my first shot. Then pulled the trigger again and nothing. I pulled back the slide again their was a round in the chamber but the hammer didnt fall. I did the jb weld trick put in a volquartsen hammer with the shims i did not use the spring that came with the hammer does anyone know what could be causing this? Do i need to sand off more of the jb weld? I have a weapon craft bolt buffer volquartsen extractor thumb hole stock greenmountain barrel flutted stainless pc base burris sig zee rings leupold 3x9x50 scope sure would like to get this baby dialed in. Ty in addvance for any feed backs.
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I'm guessing too much JB weld. I'm assuming you tried dry firing it after you did the JB weld trick? When I was adjusting my PC sear with set screw there was a very fine line between the pulling the trigger and getting nothing and pullling the trigger and having it feel like the factory trigger. I another gun I did the JB weld trick and it only took out a little pretravel.

It could be the "angle" on the JB weld is wrong too now that I think about it. At least it's easy to fix, just sand it some more, if you have to start from scratch that's pretty easy too. Maybe someone has some other suggestions.
 

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I've had this same problem with my vq hammers and pc adjustable sears. I put the original factory hammer back in and now it's fixed, but I got ALOT of pretravel and a heavyer pull. NOT ACCEPTABLE. I don't understand???????????????
If I adjust the set screw any more (with the vq hammer).........I get lots of creep, thus eliminating the benefit of having an adjustable sear.
Is there a problem with my vq hammers? They are the blemished ones, so I guess it's a possibility.

I'm about to pull what little bit of hair I got left out. Could someone shed some light on this for me please? I just bought an adjustable hammer from skeeter, so I'll try that when it gets here. It just pisses me off that this set up does not work properly. Maybe I should listen to my own advice and send it to todd...............But, I've already done most of the mods so it seems stupid to spend another $80 on these trigger assemblies.

thanks,
swampf0x
 

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Hmmm... that is a very interesting question. I have never used any of the PC trigger parts, so I can't comment on them specifically, but I DO know that Skeeters are very specifically set... meaning that even a small change can alter the way something works.

But I thought - and I may just be confused here - that the adjustability of the PC (or Skeeter) sear WAS to take the creep out of the trigger pull... if you adjust it more - what happens when you adjust it the other way (backing it down?)???

If moving it back eliminates the creep, the VQ hammer by itself ought to lend you a 2.5 to 3 lb pull.
 

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If I adjust it to take out all the creep, the hammer will not cock at all. If I back it out the creep comes back. When I adjust it I only move it about 1/16 of a turn. I'm lost. I hate to admit it but I am. Just like removing jb weld. Take too much off and it serves no purpose. Too much jb weld and the hammer wont cock. I just cant seem to find that happy median.
I bought some drill bits to be used as over sized pins, to see if I can get rid of any slop that way.

sf
 

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SwampF0X said:
If I adjust it to take out all the creep, the hammer will not cock at all. If I back it out the creep comes back. When I adjust it I only move it about 1/16 of a turn. I'm lost. I hate to admit it but I am. Just like removing jb weld. Take too much off and it serves no purpose. Too much jb weld and the hammer wont cock. I just cant seem to find that happy median.
I bought some drill bits to be used as over sized pins, to see if I can get rid of any slop that way.

sf
I got frustrated like that when I was trying to adjust my PC sear, the adjustable one that came with the kit. I either had creep (or pretravel, whatever) or it didn't work. Or it would work awhile before not working. I finally filed the sear, one of the ends was rounded instead of squared off like the factory sear. It seems to work fine now.

When I posted my dillema someone had mentioned all the slop in the factory parts and I started to appreciate the precision of a well functioning trigger group. I've come to the conclution that there are a lot of factors affecting how the parts work together, like minute slop and how the parts fit together. I did the JB weld trick on one gun and I still have creep or pretravel. I've ordered another adjustable sear for it and also some shims to see if I can get it to be light and crisp.

The irony of it all is the first gun I modifed had a factory trigger that actually wasn't too bad and when I put a VQ hammer in it was almost perfect! I say "almost" because it's perfect for my needs but I can detect a teensy weensy bit of variation between trigger pulls every now and then. That gun has hardly any post travel and it had the loosest trigger pins of my 3 10/22's. I now have my PC equipped gun to where it's a "tad" lighter and crisper than that gun but it had lots of post travel that was removed by the set screw in the trigger.

I think when I filed my adjustable sear I must have made it fit the disconnector better, and it apparently moves the same each time because I FINALLY got it to consistantly work. I haven't shot this gun much, waiting on a new barrel and I havn't put loctite on the screw in the sear because I am afraid when I back it out to put the loctite on I will not be able to get it in the exact same working spot again. I'm going to wait till I get a little slop before I do that. The amount of adjustment between perfect and failing is so small it boggles my mind!!
 
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