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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ruger 10/22
Factory Mount (held with Lock-Tite, it's solid)
Scope: Simmons 44mag (44mm Objective Lense)
Rings: 1'' Weaver Tip off rings... No problems ever.
Barrel: Custom 920 bull barrel.

The Problem: I can't get the bullet impact point to get 'up' to where the crosshair is... I've maxed out the elevation dial, making progress all the way. rephrase: The crosshair is above the point of impact and I can't adjust elevation anymore!

The Issue: The Object Lense is making contact with the barrel... I can still adjust the distance, but it is making little tiny bit of contact (it's pitted for grip, and that's all that's hitting).

What I Think/Hope: That little tiny bit of contact is keeping the scope up a mm or so, and not allowing me to adjust properly. I think I just need 'high' rings or a spacer. Just curious, is the Weaver T-09 base any higher? I really don't feel like having to undo the Lock-Tite job though, it came out so well...

Otherwise, the scope is 'defective', I guess... I would like to keep it so low on the barrel (barrel has no irons on it).

Any input is welcome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just took the front most ring off (the top part)

Doesn't seem to be pulling it down too hard, is the problem is doesn't have enough room to move down? I'm tempted to put the stock barrel back on and see how it handles.... Is that the best thing to do in this case? argh...
 

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I doubt your scope is defective.

You have two problems. One is that if the scope is actually touching the barrel, you need higher mounts. This is because anything touching the barrel will affect accuracy, and the vibrations and recoil of firing will probably damage your scope in the long run.

Your second problem may be related to the first, and that raising the scope will solve the elevation problem. If not, then your scope may be improperly mounted, or you may need to shim inside one of the rings to change the angle at which the scope rests. I have had to do this on the single piece scope mounts provided for my Blaser rifle, as the scopes were at the limits of their adjustments (both scopes were 30mm barrel scopes!), so I couldn't do all the sighting in I needed. Just like you.
 

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When you install your higher rings make sure that you zero your scope before you boresight and start adjusting it again. This way you will have the maximum adjustment to work with when you start try to resight your scope.
 

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Here's the solution, Grasshopper!

First problem: Ruger factory base. Take it off and throw it away. It's too flimsy. Get yourself something a little beefier and more solid like the Millett, Power Custom, or Weigand Weaver-type bases. There are also those that swear by the Weaver T09 base (I'm not one of them). I prefer Power Custom for large objective lenses. They have the added benefit of height compared to many others, allowing you to use shorter rings.

Second problem: The higher the optical axis of the scope above the axis of the bore, the more internal clicks of elevation adjustment you need just to get on target at 25 yards -- the problem is even more pronounced at 100 yards. That's why you'll very often hear complaints by owners of large objective scopes about running out of elevation. The larger the bell, greater height required to clear the barrel, higher rings necessary, and greater number of elevation clicks needed.

The solution for this is either shimming the bases and re-lapping the rings, or taking the simpler and more flexible method that myself and others have come to use. Our solution -- Burris Signature Zee Rings! They are both windage and elevation adjustable. Then you'll be able to zero your rifle at whatever distances you wish without having to move your internal scope sittings far from their neutral position. You use your scope's internals only for the fine adjustments. No more running out of elevation. ;)
 

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actually, i would say that you have a problem with your barrel canting downward. this happens sometimes with aftermarket barrels. when you installed your barrel, was it a tight fit in the receiver or pretty loose? check and make sure your v-block screws are now bottoming out. also check and make sure your receiver does not have the classic hump on the front end. if it does you can see light between your receiver and scope base.
hopefully this helps you out a little.
 

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If you "floated" that aftermarket barrel, you MUST bed the 1st couple inches of the barrel, or use a bughole tuner to support the barrel. It's possible that the heavy barrel is sagging in the aluminum reciever.

Have you checked the Ruger reiciever for the imfamous "hump" under the scope rail?

You gotta get that scope up off of the barrel. I used a Weaver TO-9 rail and a set of High Millet rings on my rifle. The millet rings, being steel, can be toqued to 30 in/pounds, which insures that they will not move.

The use of Locktite under any scope rail is a good safety measure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The factory Ruger rail, as ghey as it is, is locked in place Hard. No receiver hump, perfect flush.

I just bought some Burris 1'' ZEE Medium Rings... I do not believe they are the Signature rings... (still in the car, gotta go get). I will try them soon, and I think they will make the difference since I used to have a 4x single power on there, no problems, + a 2 3/4x)

But Man, I don't like hearing about/that

a) Barrel could be sagging on Aluminum receiver...

b) About maybe having to lap and shim the rings (forget that, I'll buy Burris Signatures, how much I wonder)

But thank you for the all super informative responses... I guess that's why I'll be joining come early summer. =D
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Those f~tards… the Burris rings are full sized (centerfire), not Tip-off/dovetail, like I asked… the guy said the Burris medium height (what they are) = slightly higher than the standard weaver 1’’ mediums (which I also have and had tried originally)… dammit...


At least the packaging is all nice and I can restore it to retail sell condition and get my $ back... dammit... I doubt they have the signature rings... I can always ask I guess...


argh.


'Brand: Burris
RINGS,SIGN ZEE MED BLK 1"

$34.01
'

Pay it once and just keep em for a long time I suppose... That about right in price (Natchez)? and those are the centerfire sized base, right? f~, I guess I should also get the Weaver T0-9 or the other recommended base... I don't have the waste cash for this... maybe I'll just bite the bullet and put the stock barrel back on... *sigh*... but that would be fully freefloated in my stocks by now, without any bedding... dammit... what to do...
 

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If money is an issue (it certainly is for me) I'd get rid of those Burris rings and get a Power Custom base and Millet Angle-Loc ring and take the time to lap them.
I made sure I got rid of the hump on my action (I had a small hump) loc-tited the base in, and carefully put the rings on (try to carefully keep them aligned because they're angle-locs). and lapped it with a wooden dowel and 1500 grit wet/dry.
The high Millet rings and the PC base gave me plenty of clearance for my 50mm objective BSA and I have never had any problems.
The setup cost me about $33. As long as you take care in putting all the pieces together and lapping the rings I don't see a need in spending $35 for just the Zee rings.
 

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p3

Apparently you have your scope aimed way above the barrel centerline and it is not level and you bought the rings without looking at them first to see if they were for the dovetail mount.
Take the rings back to the retailer and see if they have the right set. If you free floated the barrel, you will have to add a pressure point back at the end of the stock to support the barrel and this will bring the POA & POI closer together.
Hope it helps..........
Ted
 

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A possible solution!

I have a Power Custom "weaver style action base" that is designed to help with your problem. It attaches to the reciever and also extends forward over the heavy barrel so that it can be attached to the barrel ( requires gunsmithing to drill & tap two holes into the barrel). It therefore "locks" the barrel to the reciever. It would also let you use the Burris rings you just purchased. You can see what they look like at Powercustom.com in the 10/22 parts section. They retail for $43.75, I'll sell the one I have for $30 + shipping. Let me know if your interested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Probably going to go with the Burris Zee Signature Rings... Can some one tell me if they are dovetail or centerfire, or if both exist? I really don't want to have to get the soldering iron out to take out that base... it's plenty secure as it is...


=)
 

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They come in both dovetail and weaver style (I think thats what you're refering to when you say center fire).
It's your choice whether or not you go with the Ruger dovetail, but most people will agree that the Weaver style base/rings are better. The Ruger factory base is prone to warpage just because it's so thin.
You've gotta really torque your rings to get them to stay still on a dovetail base, something you don't have to worry about on a Weaver style.
I had a big scope on a dovetail base before and the scope, no matter what I did to the base or rings, would wobble left and right on the action. A weaver style base is also wider, reducing the left/right flex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you for the terminology clarification, and I do agree (no way to argue really!) that the weaver bases are better/studier, etc... However, I am satisfied with how tighet the Dovetail is (with the flush, locktite fit). Now I just need to find Burris Zee Signature Rings that are, in fact, Dovetail...

Natchez did not specify... (when ordering)... I guess I should try and look around online for Burris info... so **** busy though... anyone know off hand?


*edit*

I think I have a better idea of how they would help, just not the easiest things to adjust (after looking at the picture for a while, I see how tightening locks into place, etc...)

 

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Scope Mounting Systems.....! !

Phoenix_III,

There are FOUR types of Scope Mounting Systems: [in the USA]
1. "Tip-Off" for 3/8" grooved rimfire and 11mm airgun receivers.
2. "Weaver" and "Weaver Type" with a 7/8" wide dovetail base.
3. "Redfield" ["Burris" & "Leupold"] 'turn-in' dovetail studded rings.
4. "Integral" ["Ruger" & "Sako"] bases that require 'special' rings.

The "adapter" supplied by "Ruger" with all 10/22's gives you the #1 type scope mounting system: "Tip-Off" or rimfire......! !
This is the least sturdy of all the systems, because it was only designed for small rimfire scopes with 3/4" tubes back in the 50's......! ! :(

This "adapter" requires:
"Tip-Off" rings from "Weaver" or
.22 rings from "Burris" or
.22 Rimfire rings from "Leupold" or
.22 cal. rings from "Millett".....! !

The "Burris" Zee Rings are for the "Weaver" system with a 7/8" wide base. They will NOT fit your "Ruger" base.....! !

Hope this helps....... :)
 

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Scope Mounting Systems

Fumbler,

"Burris" does make rings for grooved receivers: they are called ".22 rings"...... :)

The "Burris" Zee rings ONLY fit the "Weaver" and "Weaver type" bases that are 7/8" wide..... :)

Unfortunately, most Sites [and dealer catalogs] "assume" that you know 'all this stuff'.......! ! :(

Anyone choosing to use the "Ruger" 'adapter' is severly limiting their options for mounting scopes:
0 Limited "height" options.
0 No "offset" options.
0 Least sturdy.

The "Weaver" system is the most versatile:
0 ALL mount makers make rings for the "Weaver" system.
0 ALL options are available for the "Weaver" system.

The next most versatile is the "Redfield" system used by "Burris", Leupold", and "Redfield".
 

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The Burris naming system is pretty clear to me.

Scope attachment type:
Signature - plastic inserts to hold the scope
<not specified> - metal-to-metal style

Mount type:
Zee - weaver style mount
22 - tipoff mount
Double dovetail - not sure about this one.
<not specified> - Redfield / Leupold style - dovetail front, windage adjustable rear.

sounds like you want Signature Zee rings.
 
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