need a little help

714 Views 27 Replies 6 Participants Last post by Chaser, Jun 17, 2009

jamescb77

Discussion Starter · Jun 16, 2009

Ok gues i just put together my 10/22 and it shoots fantastic. Just a little run down so you guys know the whole situation. factory trigger, reciever, bolt, er shaw barrel, houge stock, dednutz mounts, and a intensity 6-20x44 scope.

I went out last weekend to shoot it and once i got it on paper it shot fantastic using SK Standard+. Here is my problem, I had to adjust the scope almost all the way up to get it on paper. I mean like a half turn from being maxed out. Also this was at 25 yards which means i have no adjustment to go out and shoot 50 or 100 yards so i know this can't be right. Any help would be much appreciated.

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lewy

· #2 · Jun 16, 2009

Dreaded barrel droop.Tactical Solutions has a scope rail with 15 MOA built in.Hawktec Arms or other sponsers here carry them.

jamescb77

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jun 16, 2009

i appreciate the rail suggestion but im guessing that there is an actuall reason why it is doing this. im going to pull it apart tonight and reassemble and make sure everything is on there right. if anyone has a suggestion other than just a rail i appreciate it.

Red Cent

· #4 · Jun 16, 2009

:bthumb: Attitude of the post:t

Barrel droop. Visions of an elongated receiver hole dance in my head. There seems to be a number of camps that have opinions of how to remedy the problem. Sounds like threads is the final fix. However, I am curious, since I am building a 10-22 for serious plinking.
Are we not trying to create the same reaction from the rifle on each shot? Boy that sounds good on paper considering action bolts, further bedding, pillars, pads (rubber?) and .............
Why can't you put a bedding point/pad 3-4 inches in front of the action? Any one ever tried moving that bedding point forward a few inches at a time?
Anyone tried the two pont pillar system at the muzzle end of the stock?
I have bedded centerfire rifles since the early sixties. All, save one, were floated with the first 3-4 inches of the barrel shank along with the receiver. A 6MM, built on a Savage action, with a Bishop stock and a Douglas barrel 20" straight taper was finally bedded the full length of the stock. Shoots a 100gr bullet into less than an inch consistently.
It is interesting to read that it is totally necessary to carry your inch pound torque screwdriver with you. I got a Wheeler so I am prepared.
Just curious.

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Red Cent

· #5 · Jun 16, 2009

77,
You are going to discover the meaning of the phrase "let me count the ways". If it is barrel droop (and itprobably is) put a Gunsmither V-block on it. Set screw puts upward pressure on the barrel. After block is installed, put action in vise and apply a little hand pressure up from under the front of the barrel as you barely tighten the set screw.
Pad/bed the barrel at front of stock, bed just in front of the action, pillar bed an adjustment screw in front of the takedown screw............and on and on
and on.....
Now lets talk about that action.

jamescb77

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jun 16, 2009

so it seems as though a different v block is in order and i guess im going to have to order a inch pound torque wrench. Another question is how do you torque the vblock since there is so little room between it and the barrel. when i put it together i had to use an allen wrench because i driver with a allen head wouldn't fit in there. i appreciate all the help guys

Red Cent

· #7 · Jun 16, 2009 (Edited)

The consensus is "snug". The important one is the takedown screw. They monitor this quite a bit.
Here is mine with the ubiquitus list.

Custom hand carved stock

Rimfire Tech 3 point bedding system
adjustable sear (I did the hammer)
Gunsmither V-Block
Modified bolt release to automatic
Half a safety pin trigger return
Trigger OT stop
A pillar bedded barrel adjustment screw 4" in front of TD screw
Polishing about everything
4x12 Bushnell will be replaced with an in hand Truglo 8x32x44

I have fired it into garage backstop for safety and function. Does great. Soon as I get a good scope base (today), I will attempt to fire for effect.

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Chaser

· #8 · Jun 16, 2009 (Edited)

In over 2 dozen builds in the last 3 years I have found that only a few responded enough to a Adj. V-block to make enough difference to make them shoot-able. Depending on the fit of your barrel to Rec. you may have little or no where for the union to move..in other words the Adj. V-block may do absolutely nothing. I have had some with a fairly loose fit and they of course did respond well...then there are the very tight ones that won't. And the ones that are loose and you crank that adjuster screw tight you may and probably will create a un-true fit of the chamber face to the bolt...

When I want to use Dednutz mounts on a build I set it up first with a factory or a PC base and a set of basic rings and check for droop...if I have it I first try the Adj. V-block and see if it responds..if it doesn't I know I cannot use the Dednutz..end of story for that build.. I know I must use some other form of correction..which is either Burris Sig Zee rings with offset inserts or the TacSol 15 MOA base.

My bet is on you needing a TacSol 15 MOA rail and any set of rings or the Burris Sig Zee rings on a PC or factory base, your choice...I will watch this

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jamescb77

Discussion Starter · #9 · Jun 16, 2009

i appreciate all the help guys. im going to take it apart tonight and look for any humps in the top of the receiver. im also going to loosen the v block screws as im pretty sure they are way to tight. IM an over tightener. also im going to readjust my mount screw and loosen it up a bit im guessing it's also to tight. hopefully this will make a difference.

Chaser

· #10 · Jun 16, 2009

jamescb77 said:
i appreciate all the help guys. im going to take it apart tonight and look for any humps in the top of the receiver. im also going to loosen the v block screws as im pretty sure they are way to tight. IM an over tightener. also im going to readjust my mount screw and loosen it up a bit im guessing it's also to tight. hopefully this will make a difference.

James...it's not like you will be able to see a hump...they all look the same and yes there is a hump and no there is nothing within reason you can do about the situation but fix it with one of the above fixes....it's not a zit that you can see then pop and it will heal.

jamescb77

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jun 16, 2009

well i can't really use a canted rail because a dednutz is a mount and rail all in one. How would i go about shimming the rear to adjust for this. I have also heard that you can file down that hump. How do i know where to file in order to make it right?

Chaser

· #12 · Jun 16, 2009

jamescb77 said:
well i can't really use a canted rail because a dednutz is a mount and rail all in one. How would i go about shimming the rear to adjust for this. I have also heard that you can file down that hump. How do i know where to file in order to make it right?

That is 2 real drastic NO NO's...oh go ahead and take some jokers suggestions and screw it all up...man that is a ugly way to fix..very ugly..Best answer Buddy is sell that Dednutz and do one of the above fixes...really. Go back and re-read post #8. Post that mount in RFC classifieds and it will sell.

lewy

· #13 · Jun 16, 2009

Chaser has built as many of these as anyone.Heed the voice of experience.

jamescb77

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jun 16, 2009 (Edited)

ok thanks chaser i will not try and do either of those two options. i will try retorqueing everything and see what that does. if this doesn't help or fix the problem then i guess i will get a rail with 15moa on it. how well do burris rings work. I still have the stock rail that came with the gun and if the burris rings will work i will just get those and use them. thanks for the help. Also do you think any of this is being caused by the fact that im using the high dednutz mount. I read that it would be the one that i needed for this scope so it's the one i bought but there is a fair amount of height between the barrel and the scope.

ghgrosh

· #15 · Jun 16, 2009

The height of the mount does not have any measurable effect on your problem. The difference in amount of adjustment would only be one or two clicks.

Chaser

· #16 · Jun 16, 2009 (Edited)

As stated the height is not your problem...
The factory base will work fine with the Burris Sig Zee's if its the TO9 and can be used with either the Dovetails or the Weaver style rings...use the lower...the newer guns come with this rail...the older ones came with the junk 3/8" rail. You will need to buy the .020 off set inserts...separate purchase from the rings. They come with inserts but they are not offsets (.00)... Depending on what scope you have the ring height is of course a issue...up to 40 obj. and the factory rail the Med. height is fine..anything over 40 obj. you will need Highs with the factory rail...all depending on the stock and the barrel size...lot's of variables...if ya need help PM me with all the info and I can help.

Clickie and watch the video....

http://www.burrisoptics.com/sigrings.html

jamescb77

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jun 16, 2009

i have a 44mm objective so im guessing the highs are the way to go. how do i know which base came with the gun originally?

Chaser

· #18 · Jun 16, 2009 (Edited)

If it's a newer 10/22 it will be this one below and usable...crappy but usable.

http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=0002948201
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=512740

jamescb77

Discussion Starter · #19 · Jun 16, 2009

im not big on using crappy stuff so which base do you recommend?

Chaser

· #20 · Jun 16, 2009 (Edited)

jamescb77 said:
im not big on using crappy stuff so which base do you recommend?

Atta Boy :bthumb: :bthumb:

Power Custom: and with this base and your Intens. scope Med. rings are good to go.

http://shootersdiscount.com/cart/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=161

Burris:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=416175
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=152777

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