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Mods to my Single Six

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I really enjoy reading about Single Six's on this forum.
I like the photo thread too.

I have made the following Mods to my Single Six:

Steel Ejector Rod Housing
Oversize Base Pin (cylinder pin)
True Oil finish on the Grip Panels

I would really like to replace the grip frame with a brass one.
I think polished Brass on Blue Steel would look really sharp.

(I don't do high dollar mods very often.)

So what have you done to your Single Six?

Here is an old photo, prior to refinishing the grip panels.


Thom T
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I really enjoy reading about Single Six's on this forum.
I like the photo thread too.

I have made the following Mods to my Single Six:

Steel Ejector Rod Housing
Oversize Base Pin (cylinder pin)
True Oil finish on the Grip Panels

I would really like to replace the grip frame with a brass one.
I think polished Brass on Blue Steel would look really sharp.

(I don't do high dollar mods very often.)

So what have you done to your Single Six?

Thom T
I havent had any mods done on my SS personally, i just p/u one with them already done. Single Six in SS.

> BBL and Ejector Rod/Housing shorted to 3.5"
> RR front sight (dont know if this is OEM)
> Jewelled hammer
> warning removed from BBL (i like)
> all for $400
 

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I stripped and polished the aluminum grip frame but want to put an XR3 or Power Custom SAA-style grip frame on it. It's got a Ruger blued steel ejector housing, MK bullseye ejector rod and CLC birdseye maple grips. It's my constant companion.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
SS Grip Frame

CraigC,

You stripped and polished an aluminum grip frame?? It used to be blue?
Wow! Nicely done!

How did you get the blue finish off of the aluminum? What did you use
to polish it up like that?

How hard is it to remove and reinstall the grip frame?
I know where the screws are. I am wondering about the springs
and other parts right between the top of the frame and the back
of the gun.

Thom T
 

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Thanks! The Old Models were all anodized, which makes stripping them tricky. If you don't strip it chemically, it takes forever and a day to do it mechanically. Easy Off oven cleaner takes it off like it was made for the task. Put on some gloves, hang it outside and spray it down. Let it foam for a few minutes then card it off with 0000 steel wool. Repeat as needed. It's important that you get all the anodizing off with the chemicals as anything left will leave high spots when you polish. Rinse it thoroughly with water. I polished mine with a Dremel but it's difficult to get an even finish. I'd suggest a regular buffing wheel. I don't know when it changed but sometime in the last few years they started using a coating. Don't know how to strip that but most New Models are also anodized.

Working on an Old Model is easy as pie, it's almost just like a Colt SAA. The New Models require an extra hand or two to get back together. Nothing will go flying when you take it off but both the transfer bar plunger and the bolt plunger will are held in place by the grip frame. The tricky part is getting it back together with the trigger return spring on top of the trigger. If you have a manual, the exploded diagram will help immensely but expect it to be somewhat tough the first couple times.
 

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I have the Ruger blackhawk flat top anniversery models and I really like the XR-3 frames. I would like to install an XR-3 grip frame on my stainless single six.

I have contacted Ruger, and you can purchase "in the white" stainless XR-3 frames made for the New Vaqueros. I can't recall the price they quoted me.

On rugerforum.com, you can find quite a few posts from people who have swapped/fitted different styled frames (including brass frames) on the Blackhawks. You can search the forum and find quite a few posts about what is necesary to fit frames. I inquired whether the XR-3 frame could be installed on a single-six. Didn't receive any replies from anybody that has already done this. However, I was told "there may be a dimensional mismatch in the region of the two upper screw holes". I haven't made any effort to follow up with a gunsmith. And as I don't really know squat about gunsmithing, i don't know if the possible mismatch can easily be fixed. I have looked in the owner's manuals for a new model Blackhawk and a Single Six. The XR-3-red frames are the same part numbers for the blued blackhawk and blued singlesix.

If by chance anybody does install the xr-3 frame on their single six, i would really appreciate hearing how it goes.

c.r.
 

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There's quite a bit of confusion about Ruger's grip frames and it's mostly Ruger's fault. The original grip frame was the cast aluminum, Colt-sized XR3. It is a dead ringer for the Colt SAA profile and was used on both Single Sixes and the "flat-top" .357 and .44 Blackhawks. Then in 1962 they made more room behind the triggerguard and called it the XR3-RED. However, there are a bunch of New Model single actions with the XR3-RED pattern grip frame that are actually marked XR3. The easiest way to distinguish is that the New Vaquero and 50th Anniversary Blackhawks are the only New Models to sport a true XR3 pattern grip frame, made in steel to boot. They are also the first to carry the internal lock so any grip frame swapping will have to include the lock and a new mainspring/strut assembly. Which brings us to swapping the actual frame. I've had a few of the new guns apart and on every one I tried, it would take some serious fitting to make the new XR3 work on another New Model sixgun. I don't expect it to be a job for the casual home parts swapper like most the rest of them.

Check out the article on grip frames by Bill Hamm on Gunblast.com. Great reference.
 
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