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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
here's the modificed trigger housing for the .22 mag conversion. as you can see there is a 1/4 inch block added to the inside. two problems crop up here that have to be addressed.
1. the mag release has to be modified. the easiest way is get a plastic mag release. i like the bell and carlson. you have to take some material off to make it fit. check the photos.
you need to assemble everything to make sure that the plunger is in the proper place then drill the new hole for the stop pin
2. the bolt hold open doesn't fit with the block. once modified you have to take the entire trigger housing apart. the bolt release has to be the first thing put in the trigger housing or you just can't get it in.
add a .22 mag barrel and there you have it.







 

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P7J

Been hoping to see some of your PIC's on this. Now wouldn't you need to shorten the ejector? With the trigger housing moved back now I would think the ejector would be stuck out farther and maybe try to flip the empty cases out a little soon causing a FTE, but I am not sure. Heck I like the whole idea of how this is done though.

Have another question, you mentioned you added a 1/4" piece to allow the fit of the mag retention plunger, so is a 1/4" all you cut off the trigger housing? You get another 1/8" somewhere else? There is a 3/8" difference needed to fit the 22mag. Hope you don't mind all the questions? Looks like a good project though.

What are you planning to do for the bolt spring? Then are you going to add weight to the bolt to help with the extra charge or more spring? I guess I should ask if you have shot this yet or not LOL. You make any changes at the back of the receiver for when the bolt comes back? I have read lots about this on the forum, with how some add the little flat square of padding and remove the bolt stop pin and or cut the bolt stop pin into and all, just wondered how you were doing this as well. Thanks for posting the PIC's too. Sorry for all the questions LOL...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
your right rowdy on the ejector. i've been working on shorting the ejector to aid in ejection. right now it's not installed at all. it had fired and cycled without any problems without it. I did lengthen the ejection port towards the front of the chamber a little bit.

yes I removed 3/8 of an inch. the plunger only needs to be drawn back far enough to disengage the magazine. I bought three different sizes of aluminum rod. the 1/4 x 1/2 worked the best for me. you can see in the picture that there is a screw on each side of the housing to secure the block.

as for bolt spring I am currently using a manum spring and magnum charging handle. I bought the heavy 17hm2 handle and i'll try adding that at a later time.
I mad no changes to the rear of the reciever. there is a weaponkraft bolt buffer without modifications in the rifle.
 

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Oh, cool. I was not aware the 17HMR handle was different from the 22mag. Thats interesting. Now let me ask the stupid question, where is this ejection port??? Didn't know there was such animal on the 10/22.
 

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Yep Gunteer. That DOES look very famililar. Need better quality pics though. I can't even see the bolt hold open. I pretty much know what everything else looks like, seeing as how I built mine almost identical.
I'm about to start on #2 if I can get all the bugs worked out of the first one. :)

looking good P7. Is it completed yet?

swampf0x
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rowdy, the .22lr and .22mag handle are different. the .22 magnum handle is what I added. the .22 mag has a different spring and larger grip area to charge the bolt. i shortened the rod to fit the .22lr reciever.
the other charging handle i'm referring to is the heavy handle built for the .22lr to 17hm2 conversion.

the ejection port is where the empty cases leave the gun after firing. :D
I apologize if i used the improper terminology
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
yes i'ts complete and working. I'm just not happy with the 1/4 inch block. I cant get it smooth as I want it and it feels a little gritty. i ordered a couple more trigger housing to try and do it a little differently. what I'm doing is drilling with a 5/8 inch bit (i think tha'ts the size anyway) that is almost the same size as the plunger. next i'm taking the plunger and latering polishing compound and using that as the bit to widen the hole a little bit more.

what I think I"m going to do is try brass tubing next time. it's softer than aluminum and may smooth up better. instead of adding a block i'm going to thread the inside of the trigger housing and the outside of the brass tube.
if that doesn't work i'm going to just cut the front off of an un modified trigger housing an replace the aluminum block.
 

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P7

I got you now, it makes sense to me too, that is a good word for it for me. I am just to dumb to know what it was, so I asked LOL Now as for shooting better PIC's and posting them, I am not sure but if I had to guess you was using an auto focus camera, if so use manual focus for up close like that and it works way better for me anyway. Heck I was just tickled that someone had the time to take some and post anything about this LOL.

I have been toying around with the idea of trying to find a ragged out 10/22 for like way cheap money to try this myself. Looks like a lot of fun to me. Certainly would be if some of you guys would bail me out when I got up to my neck in a problem area LOL...

Now let me ask another question on the lenghtening of the ejection port, you said you lenghtened this toward the front, not sure I am on the same thing for as front and back here, sorry I am having all this trouble. Would this be that you cut the slot longer to allow more room for the case to exit, and being cut toward the rearside of the slot. Hows about a PIC of this dude, you need the practice on posting PIC's anyway. They say a PIC is worth a thousand words LOL.

Edit: I looked over the receiver and I think I see the part of the ejector port you cut out now, and it is on the front side. I thought that was pretty much flush with the end of the barrel there as it makes an oval shape cutout. It does have a little bit of a lip there that could be removed, and I bet that would be in the way if you didn't remove it. Cool dude, thanks. Please keep us posted on this.

I did read a post somewhere by some of you guys that you thought you should have your own little corner of the forum for this sort of thing. I think you called it the darkside LOL... Any case, I do hope you guys find time to share this stuff and that I see the postings. Thanks again, I am off to the pawn shops to see if there is a way tired old 10/22 to take a chain saw and modify LOL...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm not sure if lengthing the port helped. I didn't have any problems with it before the modification. a couple stove pipes is all.

to tell you the truth i wanted to wait on posting any pics until I've come up with the best solution concerning the block. I'll take your advise on the pics though. I was using auto focus.
 

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Rowdy, you do not need to change the shape of the port in the side of the reciever. You do need to remove some of the metal from the rear of the magazine well on both sides to allow the magnum magazine to fit into the receiver.

Something to think about. When all of this started, it seems that there were 4 or 5 of us doing this at the same time and didn't know it. We used several different ways to get the same results. As for mine, well I'm lazy. I don't want to do any more work than I have to. I was planning to use the factory magazine plunger and spring. I didn't want the hassle of trying to drill/mill the hole for the plunger. I sat down and looked the housing over and there is a way to use the hole that Ruger has already made. We just need to move it to a different spot. You will still have the problem of the plunger being in the way of the front pin hole, but there are ways around that.

It will cycle with the 17HM2 handle and PC extra power springs. I still don't like the look of that big honking thing, but....
 

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Gunter
I see the area on the receiver where you need to cut the fit of the magnum magazine to fit in there. I also understand how all of you guys could actually have a different way of going at this and end up with the same result LOL... What I see as a big plus here is everyone sharing their ideas with each other here on RFC. The old saying two heads are always better than one!!!

One way I seen right off on going about this would be to cut the end from the front of the trigger housing, then shorten the two sides of the housing where you removed the front portion; then just tig the front back up to the housing making it whole again.

Then to place the mag release button back a little in the area you relief on the front of the trigger guard so as to have a extension for the mag release a little more easy to get at. Sure you would have to drill the one pin hole for the pivot of the mag release in the area of the tig weld but that shouldn't be real bad. This all just seems to be a way of doing the mod another direction LOL...

So you guys that have shot one of these mod'd receivers in the 22mag, how was the shot when the bolt came flying back and impacted the back of the bolt stop pin, which I assume you have the poly or nylon types LOL. Just curious as to how hard they hit the back of the receiver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
it's a pretty good thump compared to the .22lr but not bad at all. i've only shot the .22 mag in this rifle. I did add a few ounces of weight to the bolt by drilling a 3/8 inch hole, threading it filling it with powdered tungsten and adding a flat screw to hold it all in place. that with the added power spring from the magnum charging handle seemed to slow it down nicely.


also I don't know if you can use a tig on the trigger housing. i'm not sure if it will hold with the type of aluminum Ruger uses. when I threaded the housing it looked like powder.
 

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You know you maybe right about welding on these housing all together really. I have noticed that Ruger has some kind of a bake on looking finish on them or at least mine does. Would not surprize me at all though LOL. I have figured it was a pretty good thump LOL. Thats why I asked LOL. You think the aluminum receiver is up to the task? At least for a long haul anyway.
 

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There you go on the PIC dude, now if your like me and have bi-focal glasses, take them off before you use camera also LOL... Now from what I see here on your PIC, all you need to do is go in there where the almost heart shaped cut out is and knock that little tit down to a really small roll there and then the bolt will release when you pull the the bolt back and release it after you have locked it open...

Edit: well heck I just got out bid on a loaded up action only for a SS 10/22 I was bidding on, he certainly wanted it worse than I did I guess LOL. If I could have got it for my last bid it would have been a great project for this mod LOL
 
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