[Plinker]

Model 69A

Well by way of a trade,I am the proud
owner of a Model 69A.

The gun is a sporter model with open
sights and on the outside is in very
good shape.The inside had a lot of crud
built up,but nothing a good clean'in
can't take care of.
Happen to notice that the barrel is
approx. the same taper and size as the
Ruger VMBZ barrel. About an inch longer
at 25 inches.The long sight radius sure
make the sights easer to see.

The stock is in good shape with only
a few slight marks on it.

I really like old "squirrel" rifles
like this,no matter the Mfg. Sort of help bring back the old days.

Hope to get out and shoot it soon,
work and weather premitting.

Was just wonder'in if anybody else
has one of this model. How do they shoot, seems that big heavy barrel would lead to pretty good accuracy.Althought
there is not much support under it.

Anybody tried bedding one of these.

 

[Mac 1]

A treasure:

Plinker: Congratulations on your latest find. Hope your 69A is one of the later models with the receiver grooved for tip off mounts. Makes the decision on mounting a scope much easier. The 69A I owned I just pressure pointed the bbl. and with the ammo. it liked it would shoot minute of dime groups all day long at 50 yds. off the bench. Hope you enjoy it. By the way, you sure got me addicted to 10/22's when you posted about building a 22" WMBS sporter. Have two of them now. Hope to get them tuned and shooting good this spring. Mac 1.

 

[Plinker]

Mac1

Ah,we meet again.

Yep, it's something about these long
barrel 22's I like.

You seem to have the same idea.

Be a while check'in the 69A out,with
weather and work in the way.

Got it degunked,slicked up and put
back together this past weekend. It's
ready for the range.

I'll see how she shoots before I
do any bed'in.

 

[2429]

model 69

I have one from the first or second year they were made. Early 30s or somthing like that. It is not an A model, but it is a 69. It was my Grandfathers first gun, and was purchased in the Teritory of Alaska, before it was a state. It was my first gun as well. Evan though it is so old, it is in about 95%shape with no real bluing or stock wear. I have the original magazines too. One for shorts, and one for long rifles.

 

[Plinker]

joey

Yep.mine is nothing fancy,but has a realy good blueing job and a good piece of walnut for a stock.
Hope to get to shoot it soon.

 

[1921]

Plinker

A few tips on the 69A: The ten round magazines are a lot easier to handle than the 5 rounders, reproductions are available for under $20, no need to spend big bucks for an original 10 rounder. The bolt handle has a couple issues- it is staked together and not very solid, my gunsmith tig-welded mine. Second the upper part is not case hardened, keep the rectangular part of the bolt well lubed to avoid excess wear. Lastly the oils used in the good old days have congealed to varnish by now. Your gunsmith can take apart the bolt, clean it and lube the inside with a synthetic lubricant like Break Free L/P. It is tough to take apart and reassemble without a pin punch set and leather vise. Good Luck H.G.

 

[Plinker]

HG - Thanks for the tips

You are right about the old lube turn'in to varnish.
I have already striped the gun down, cleaned it up and relubed it.
Don't plan to shoot it a whole lot but
will have to give it a try later.
As for now it rest in the cabinet with
a few other old soldiers.

Thanks again for the reply.

 

[JohnK]

Happy Gardener- I had that exact thing happen to me. My 40 yr. old 69A was so crudded with the old three-in-one oil, it seemed to take two seconds for the firing pin to fall. I simply used Gun Scrubber to blast out all the old crud out of the bolt, and lubbed with Break Free. The firing pin fall is now crisp as can be. The trigger group was also treated, and I was rewarded with a greatly reduced trigger pull.

I have a gunsmith friend that told me Gun Scrubber "fixes" 70% of the "broken" guns that people bring him.

I bought one of the wonderful Merit Sight Discs that fit my 69A. My old eyes now can shoot groups with the gun that I will not post here, simply because you would not believe me.

 

[1921]

JohnK

Thanks for the peep sight option. My old eyes have trouble seeing rear sights with the exception of the Marble 69W. I will look into the Merit sight disc. I am always looking to find usable iron sight options and avoid scopes for close range hunting. HG

 

[3215]

I have a 69A thats been in my family since the '50s. It has the peep sight and the hooded bead front sight. It is easily the most accurate .22 I have ever used, period. My 10/22 isn't even close. Absolutely amazing! If the gun grabbers ever say that I can only have one gun, the 69A gets the nod.

 

[Plinker]

Well I looks as though everybody

thats got 'em likes 'em.
Still got to wait a while to shoot mine. Call'in for snow again with lows in the 20's.

 

[1921]

Accuracy Plus

My 69A accuracy experience is the same as Bronco's. If I dare mention how small my groups are at 200 feet most everyone will call me a liar. Another favorite characteristic of my 69A collection is they will shoot any kind of .22 ammo with no jams. Short, long, long rifle even mixed up will feed just fine. I have found no ammo that is undigestible in the 69A provided it exits the barrel.

 

[Phoenix_III]

Anyone want to give me a walk through on how to take apart my 69a (I have two, only one bolt.... Sell me a bolt!) and clean it?

I've done the barrel and the bolt (exterior), and in the chamber (crud and what not)... but I dare not take the bolt apart, and I haven't tried to take apart trigger assembly...


Any pointers? =)

Thanks

 

[JohnK]

Note above comments on using "Gun Scrubber" or the like, and re-lubing with Break Free. No particular need to tear it down unless something is broken.

 

[1921]

Bolt Cleaning

Unless you have some gunsmith tools (padded vise and punch set) it is tough. The firing pin spring has signifigant preload and is not for the inexperienced.

 

[Phoenix_III]

Re: Bolt Cleaning

Unless you have some gunsmith tools (padded vise and punch set) it is tough. The firing pin spring has signifigant preload and is not for the inexperienced.

That's what I was thinking. I know some one who does have the experience and the tools, but do not like to trouble them if I can avoid it. Can I just get away with the thorough external cleaning (using the above comments on using "Gun Scrubber" or the like, and re-lubing with Break Free/CLP)? Hope so.

(Not home right now to try/look. This weekend!)

 

[JohnK]

Phoneix- you sure can. I did just that. Gun Scrubber and the knock offs dissolve ALL the accumulated crud, and blast it away. You will wind up with a completely clean and dry assembly. I worried about getting CLP to all parts so really soaked with Break Free CLP, then used compressed air to blast most of it out of the assembly.

You will run into all kinds of lube/clean/preservative threads, but Break Free CLP is at the top of the heap. I have never had a problem with it.

I have the instructions for bolt break down somewhere in my gun room. I don't advise it, but will look it up for you if you want.

 

[Phoenix_III]

JohnK, if you could find it, that would be great. These guns (I have two, still missing a bolt!) are my fathers, and if they do need to be taken apart (the bolt), I would like the instructions (I would then give to the smith of choice). Don't know if you have a PDF, or if you have something you can scan and I can download.

=)

 

[1921]

Lubricant Pointer

CLP is ok to start with. I have been using another Break-Free product called Break-Free L/P. It has a synthethic base like Mobil 1 so it will not turn to varnish like old oil does. It was designed for machine guns and rapid fire cannons to lubricate under extreme conditions. Only costs 5-6 bucks for a 4 oz bottle from Brownell's.