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Mild To Wild

1417 Views 20 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Ocsamschainsaw
Anybody done any mods to there marlins,Picked up a model 70c the other day. want to do something differant,Post some pics,Need some ideas.Thanks in advance.
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I stuck mine into a 2000A stock....
*standard marlin*

*in 200oa stock, inletted, bedded, and free floated to take the ..17hmr action and magazine*

Dunno if that qualifies as "from mild to wild", but I think it looks a lot different. I bet you could actually put a marlin 7000/70 into one of those stocks...I tried a model 60 drop into it for giggles, and:
*The recoil Lug matches the recoil lug hole
*The little screw behind the trigger that holds the gun into the stock is also aligned properly
*The only thing I can see you having to do on such a stock is use a dremel tool to make a small cutout for the operating handle...and you'd be set, maybe some MINOR inletting...but the plastic is way easier to work with than any wood I've used. Judging fromt he marlin's I've handled, the basic layout (NOT internal parts) seems to be the same, with minor inletting and adjestment required to swap things such as stocks. Just an idea. I used one of these stocks because they're 65 bucks at www.e-gunparts.com ; the alternative was hundreds of dollars at a custom stockmaker, and it wouldn't come with an adjustable cheekrest. I still want a custom wood stock, but my budget simply cannot afford it right now..this one does the same exact thing...not as pretty as a good laminate, but I like it.
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Looks great--I checked on e-gunparts, and those stocks are no longer available, though.
Got one in the works, nothing like OC's though! That thing is amazing!

Think mine qualifies as "wild"

Started life as a NIB Marlin 925, never fired a shot through it before I pulled the barrel, modified and installed a Green Mountain 10/22 barrel, fitted the new bolt knob, carved a new stock, reworked the trigger and installed a rear recoil lug and action screw.
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Nice work Dkemper, How hard was it to knock out the old barrel? Looks like a fun project.
Also, how did you do the bolt handle? Looks great!

Pulling the barrel had it's moments. The cross pin was VERY tight and took a pretty good whallop to remove. With the cross pin out, I made a pair of 1/64" brass pads to protect the chamber, slid a bit of 1/2" hardwall copper pipe down the action and used a 1/2" carrage bolt as a drift. Held the action in one hand, whacked the end of the carrage bolt with a 2 lb hammer with the other. Barrel was a bit reluctant to budge, the budge it did.

Hate to admit it, but I simply used a bench grinder to trim the original bolt handle into a 8mm round stud. Threaded with a die and screwed on an aftermarket bolt knob for an Anschutz. Actually cut the stud at an angle to offer better clearance between the bolt knob and the stock. Not real difficult, but took a bit of patience.

Oh, before someone asks, it'll shoot a 250 with reasonable X count at 25 yards on the USBR target more often than not (with the right ammo) so I've got to say it shoots really well for a $400 (scope included) rifle.
here is mine, it is a refinished tundra stock. I though someone said that the tundras will fit all of the marlin bolt actions?
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The Tundras should fit all the current 900 series rifles. My 925 fit with just a little bit of bedding.

dkemper, that is a nice rifle for 400 bucks, 250 score for that kind of money! not too shabby!! Your rifle kind of reminds me of the 7000T laminated with red/white/blue stock. That would be cool to have for a matched pair. I have a 2000L grey laminated, found a 7000 grey laminated, had to have it so I'd have a matched pair.... ****, this hobby keeps getting more expensive.

Hey, Tuck, Nice flames, very nice finish job.
Don't know if this is "Wild", and no pictures yet, but-

Marlin 25N:

- Bedding action

- Floated barrel

- Modified stock to accept "Target Fore end stabilizer (Below)"

- Adding "Target-type" fore end stabilizer (6 1/2 x 2 1/2 x 3/4 inch
Oak "Plank")

- Rifle Basix trigger

- Either Marlin 2000 Sear & Sear Spring, Stock Sear & 2000 Sear Spring, or
Stock Sear & Spring, stoned or unstoned, whichever is safe and gives
lightest trigger pull.

- Swift 8 - 32 x 50 scope

- BKL 1 piece mount

- Millet low rings

- BKL bubble level

- Refinishing/restaining stock


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Started out as 25Mn,sent barreled action to CPC, Randy thraded a Douglass 24'' Prem heavy barrel, hand lapped bore, 11 Degree target crown ,and match chamber.Then I sent it to 300 Below for CRYO treatment.I took the bolt apart, had it plated to make it fit tighter in the reciever, and plated the firing pin to remove some of its slop. Then I squared the bearing surfaces and bolt face. I made shims from die shim stock to reset head space and made a new pin to make the two halves fit better. Added recoil lug and rear action screw.Got the trigger down to 2.5 lbs. Bedded it in a Marlin laminated stock Floated the barrel and made a adjustable barrel tuner at the front end of the forearm.It will shoot sub MOA groups and POI does not change very much when the barrel heats up. Daryl
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882ssv .22mag cheap marlin plastic stock, cut down and modded with bondo, also bedded the action, reinforced the fore end with a metal rod and more bedding compound, polished the trigger to 1.5lbs pull... Next is new glass.

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Does anyone know where you could purchase the Marlin 2000A stock. I for the life of me can not find it at NUMRICH - after everything fell through with sharpsman's stocks - I am still looking for a custom drop in stock for my Marlin 17VS - HELP !!
im working on a 915 yn. bone stock the little .22 will shoot ragged 1 hole 3 round shots. 10 shots gets some flyers. but i did get 30 rounds thru a .6 inch hole id like to find a VERY light weight thumbhole stock for the little guy. i also have a 917vs i need to mod. i dont want the typical stocks. or tundra stocks. any ideas???
What would be the best way to get a stainless action and barrel flat black?


Easiest way to get the silver/black you're looking for would likely be one of the coatings from a place like Brownells. They're pretty easy to apply, resist cleaning agents and hold up to wear and tear pretty well.

There are much tougher ways to get the look, and yes, paint would do the job but would not hold up to use, or cleaning.
cool, thanks a ton....That will be next...If I don't decide to get a new barrel that is... :D

What about powder coating like they do on car parts ? Would that hold up on a gun?
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