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Meriden model 15

915 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  cedewilso
Picked up a Meriden model 15 at an estate sale. Getting light firing pin strikes. Only 1 in 5 rounds fired. No binding in operation. I think the firing pin may be broke off or wore off. The front of the pin sits back .70 from the front of the breach block. Can not find a picture of the breach block showing the firing pin. Should the pin be flush with the front of the breach block? Any help would be appreciated.
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In case you haven't seen it and need help to ID some parts... Meriden Rifles 15 Parts

Your pic is quite fuzzy - any chance of a clearer one?
It looks like the pin can be seen in the pic. Does it look like gritty or smooth? And did you mean .07"? .70 is almost 3/4".
If the firing pin were broken at the nose, it's doubtful you would have any strike whatsoever.
The pin will sit back from the face when cocked but, should protrude when in fired position unless it is retracted by a spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The front of the pin is smooth. Pin set back .07", my bad. Pin is held back by a spring. The spring is a fair bit stronger than the one on my rem. 121. That spring is quite light and works fine. Took gun apart. With hammer down and breach block positioned where I think it sits when closed your talking the thickness of a sheet of paper one way or the other pin touching hammer or short.

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These were made before Hi-Speed cartridges were introduced. All rimfire back then used fairly soft copper case so most of the guns from that time will have large fronts on the firing pins to hit more primer and not pierce the soft cases. These large pins often will not dent modern brass cases reliably. I have a number of guns where the nose of the firing pin has been thinned. Compare the dent in a case from your gun with one from a more modern gun. When fully forward the firing pin just has to stick out enough to dent the rim of a case, any more and dry firing will damage the edge of the chamber (and you should try to avoid ever dry firing a rimfire).

There is some information and pictures of these in this thread - meriden-mossberg-pumps
some more here - rimfirecentral.com/threads
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
These were made before Hi-Speed cartridges were introduced. All rimfire back then used fairly soft copper case so most of the guns from that time will have large fronts on the firing pins to hit more primer and not pierce the soft cases. These large pins often will not dent modern brass cases reliably. I have a number of guns where the nose of the firing pin has been thinned. Compare the dent in a case from your gun with one from a more modern gun. When fully forward the firing pin just has to stick out enough to dent the rim of a case, any more and dry firing will damage the edge of the chamber (and you should try to avoid ever dry firing a rimfire).

There is some information and pictures of these in this thread - meriden-mossberg-pumps
some more here - rimfirecentral.com/threads
Had a buddy weld a piece to the firing pin. Filed to length and width. It now goes bang. Not a bad little gun, still like my 121 Remmy better.Thanks to those who responded.
 

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Would anyone happen to know what other gun parts will interchange with the meriden model 15? I haven't found any forends and mine has a homemade slide I would like to find a replacement for.
Looks like they are pretty scarce. The gun itself looks a lot like the Savage 1903, but the forend looks more like the corn cob design used on the Remington model 12. Macon Gunstocks might be able to help you out with that. If you mic the round part of the action bar where the forend screws attach, and send him your homemade one for reference, he would probably be willing to modify(if necessary)one of the Remington 12 forends. Here’s a link for info and comparison. https://www.shop.macongunstocks.com...alnut-For-end-Remington-12-or-121-For-end.htm
 

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Based on a Savage patent, might Google images of the Savage models 1914, 1925 & 1929.

From RFC:

Macon gunstocks does supply fore ends for Savage 14 & 25.

Numrich has fore ends for the M. 1914:

I once owned the Savage 1914. It is said there are two types of butt stocks for the '14, those that are cracked and those that aren't. Sold to a friend, it was a nice rifle. Good luck.
 

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Based on a Savage patent, might Google images of the Savage models 1914, 1925 & 1929.
The Savage patents were by the members of the Savage family 7 years after they left Savage Arms and has nothing to do with the Savage made models, the parts will not interchange. It would probably take about the same amount of time to fit a Savage forearm to a Meriden as fitting any other make, if you're going to try that just find the cheapest forearm.
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I once owned the Savage 1914. It is said there are two types of butt stocks for the '14, those that are cracked and those that aren't.
I've had a few Savage 1914's and I find it more like - 'cracked or replaced'.... if it's not cracked - it's probably not original! ... and even a replacement will often be cracked.
 

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The Savage patents were by the members of the Savage family 7 years after they left Savage Arms and has nothing to do with the Savage made models, the parts will not interchange. It would probably take about the same amount of time to fit a Savage forearm to a Meriden as fitting any other make, if you're going to try that just find the cheapest forearm.
View attachment 360126

I've had a few Savage 1914's and I find it more like - 'cracked or replaced'.... if it's not cracked - it's probably not original! ... and even a replacement will often be cracked.
The pics show a lot. I'm not looking for the cheapest (or the most expensive) but would like a good Meriden part but haven't been able to locate one.
 

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I’m guessing a Meriden forend in decent shape will be hard to come by. It looks like no one is currently making new ones, and if you find a used one, it will likely be from a gun that is a total piece of junk(people don’t part out good guns), and likely not any better than your homemade one. If it were me, I would mic the mag tube diameter to start, and see if any of the comparably designed Savage or Remington forends are the same in that respect. Sav 22 could probably be of help there, as well as with the overall length, and position of the screw holes. If one of them is close enough to work with, you can shape the action bar cutout with small woodworking files and chisels. If nothing comes close, Macon will sell you a corncob style stock with just the center hole drilled out to the desired diameter, and you can drill the screw holes yourself. He’s pretty good to work with and doesn’t mind doing a little custom stuff, provided you have your ducks lined up when you call and can accurately describe what you want done.
 

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The pics show a lot. I'm not looking for the cheapest (or the most expensive) but would like a good Meriden part but haven't been able to locate one.
As mentioned in the other post, I should have one, I just have to dig it out. And if I remember right, it is in nice condition and not busted up. If you don't hear from me this afternoon, send me a message for a reminder.
 
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