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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone have a line on a 'smith who can fix a Marlin 97 from 1904? My buddy just inherited his great grandfather's rifle and he'd like to get it working again. I'm not sure what can be done considering the scarcity of parts. The chamber is fairly corroded and it fails to extract. While it fires, and hits what we aim at, we had to knock each casing out with a rod.

She ain't pretty (LOTS of character) but he'd like it to be more than something that finds its way into the back corner of his safe.
 

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Does anyone have a line on a 'smith who can fix a Marlin 97 from 1904? My buddy just inherited his great grandfather's rifle and he'd like to get it working again. I'm not sure what can be done considering the scarcity of parts. The chamber is fairly corroded and it fails to extract. While it fires, and hits what we aim at, we had to knock each casing out with a rod.

She ain't pretty (LOTS of character) but he'd like it to be more than something that finds its way into the back corner of his safe.
You said the chamber is corroded. Before I took it to a gunsmith, I would give it a thorough cleaning and lube, and see if that improves things. I assume the bore Is probably a mess too. For that and the chamber, I would put a plug in the end of the barrel, fill it to the breech with Hoppe’s #9, and let it soak overnight. Then give it a good scrubbing with a bore brush; all the way through in one direction only, no back and forth inside the barrel. Spray the area around the extractor really good with some brake cleaner or gun scrubber, and use an old toothbrush for all the little nooks and crannies. Can’t guarantee it will work, but if the gun is that grungy I’d say it’s worth a try.
 

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The '97 rifles are not too hard to work on as far as replacing the parts when you can find them. Not much to the inside workings, just some good old simple Marlin design stuff. Of course, the parts need to be in good shape for everything to work right.
I bought a 97 several years ago that wasn't loading, extracting, or ejecting all the rounds. The rifle was in pretty good shape cosmetically so I decided to put some time and money into it to see if I could get it working right.
I cleaned all the internal parts with CLP and soft brushes, and the bore and chamber areas by soaking it several times overnight filled with Kroil oil. The cleaning helped some but I wound up replacing the ejector spring, carrier, and the rocker assembly. Thankfully, the extractor was in pretty good shape. It's been working right and the bore, although pitted in some areas, is in good enough shape to hold 2-3 inch groups at 30 yards. Cleaning the chamber good helped with the extraction problem.
Some might disagree with my cleaning method for the bore, but in this case, it worked well for me. I wasn't too worried about hurting the bore rifling and chamber walls since they appeared in pretty bad shape. I was careful around the chamber rim and the crown. I put a well used brass brush on a section of an old brass cleaning rod and wrapped some long strands of a Big 45 pad around the brass brush. After each overnight soaking I used a cordless drill and worked the bore and chamber areas thoroughly. After the first cleaning, I could see some pretty good rifling...after the second cleaning a spent shell would almost drop out of the chamber. The third time around I used the normal CLP, brass brush, and cloth patch cleaning method. The rifle has had several hundred rounds through it so far and it's fired and worked like it should.
You might find some parts you need at Wisner's, Jack First, or Outback. Others on here will give you some good advice and information too, and just to mention it, other Marlin model parts may work in your 97.
And oh yeah, some pictures of that 97 would be nice...!
 

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I'll pile onto the "thorough cleaning" bandwagon. My long time gunsmith friend used to say that probably 50% of the guns brought in just needed to be thoroughly cleaned. If you disassemble it carefully, and find no obviously broken or missing parts, simply clean it thoroughly, down to the metal, lube it, reassemble, and let us know how it goes. Also, post some pics, before and after.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had already cleaned it prior to taking it out but just gave it a good soak and clean. I should be able to take it to the range Thursday to test it. Man, taking pictures of bores is hard! As you can see it's pretty corroded in there. Looks like my Mosin Nagant 91/30.
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmmm.... So as I'm putting things together I decided to recheck some things. I think the extractor may not be getting enough purchase on the case. Does someone have a picture of a known good extractor so I can look at the geometry?
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If the chamber is corroded, you might want to consider a relign as part of the restoration.
I have an old Winchester model 1906 that has a dark bore with poor rifling. When checking about re-lining the barrel, it was cost prohibitive for me based on the overall condition of the rest of the gun. It shoots and functions fine, but definitely is not the most accurate gun I have. It makes cans jump around when I shoot it and that’s good enough for me. I have other guns to shoot when more accuracy is needed, but this one is more fun to shoot.
 

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Here's a few pics of the internals on my 97...the pictures make most the surfaces look like they were finished with a side grinder and coarse files.. :LOL: :), but it operates nice and smooth and shoots pretty good. I imagine there was quite a bit of hand fitting anf finishing back in the day. Your bore rifling looks better than mine, so the rifle accuracy might be pretty decent.
One thing I did notice on the extractors is that mine has a little bit of a cutout curve underneath the "hook", whereas yours is "flat" or straight across. Not sure if that might make a little difference on the grip the extractor has on the shell rim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here's a few pics of the internals on my 97...the pictures make most the surfaces look like they were finished with a side grinder and coarse files.. :LOL: :), but it operates nice and smooth and shoots pretty good. I imagine there was quite a bit of hand fitting anf finishing back in the day. Your bore rifling looks better than mine, so the rifle accuracy might be pretty decent.
One thing I did notice on the extractors is that mine has a little bit of a cutout curve underneath the "hook", whereas yours is "flat" or straight across. Not sure if that might make a little difference on the grip the extractor has on the shell rim.
That picture of your extractor makes me feel pretty good about the extractor I have on order. Very different angle and tension. My buddy took this rifle in for a quick eval to local 'smith and he said everything looked good except the chamber and that it would need a new barrel. I'm glad I grabbed it and took a closer look.
 

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Nice of you to help out your buddy, he'll appreciate it..! I hope the extractor works out and solves the extraction problem. Getting the chamber in good condition will help with extractions too. There's folks on here that can tell you how to fix or restore the chamber. I know there are some tools and methods to help you out if the chamber is in bad shape but I don't have any experience with restoring the chamber except a good cleaning/polishing and checking for possible burrs around the rim. If you decide to repair the toe of that stock let me know. I may have an old piece of walnut stock around here somewhere that you might use to repair it.
Good luck and keep us posted..!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Received the extractor and fitted it. Wasn't too bad. Took it to the range tonight and unfortunately, did not fix the issues. So, new extractor, soaked and scrubbed chamber / barrel. Still won't work. The the cartridges chamber and extract with ease until fired. Any other suggestions?
 

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Sounds like you might have some head space issues, that are letting the case expand when the rifle is fired. It doesn’t take a lot to make them sticky. If you or your buddy have a micrometer, I would mic a spent case and then a new one, and see if there‘s a difference.
 

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I am a suckered for the Marlin 92's,and the same issues that are usually found on yours are common to 1892's. you have received good advice here already. If I may add anything, it would be that in addition to measuring fired cases as compared to unfired, I would, while the rifle is in take down state take a match 22 cartridge and very gently push it into the chamber with a finger. Then tip it up and see if the cartridge falls out, if it doesn't, try plucking it out with a finger nail. It should not fall out, but should not take much effort to pluck out, and should go in nice and smooth with no catching with the little finger. Look at the chamber with strong light before putting a chamber iron or reamer in and turn in slowly with two fingers only. I think the fact that your extractor rests on the chamber side of its channel indicates that it will function as designed.

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