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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK guys, I think I have done my homework here ... And sorry to bother anyone with a repeated question.

I want to run the cleanest burning ammo thru my Model 60s ... From what I read here, the CCI Mini-Mags are the best.

Am I correct?

Price is no matter.

Thanks, BFB
 

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imo the best!!!!!!!!:bthumb:
i'm sure others don't agree
oh well, who cares.
try'um and speak your opinion.
sea-ya
gendoc
 

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Has anyone noticed how clean (or dirty) the Aguila ammo is? It seems pretty clean to me. Don't get me wrong, but I just think CCI ammo is too expensive (and I know the OP said price didn't matter, but it does to me because when I shoot, I go through 200-300 rounds each time). I think the Aguila stuff is just as good but at a much better price.
 

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:eek: :) Whatever you Do!---"STAY AWAY FROM REMINGTON"!!:protest_e :Flush: :shakehead :1t !!-"IMO[and others on this site]- "IT"S DIRTY STUFF!!! - -Blkwollf!!!
 

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:eek: :) Whatever you Do!---"STAY AWAY FROM REMINGTON"!!:protest_e :Flush: :shakehead :1t !!-"IMO[and others on this site]- "IT"S DIRTY STUFF!!! - -Blkwollf!!!
BLKWOLLF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY, POINT-BLANK, BAR-NONE CORRECT!!!!!!!!

YOU KNOW HOW I FEEL ABOUT THOSE REM GOLDEN SOMETHINGS:cuss:

kinda like the fed champions, but worse:yikes:
 

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Marlin "60" Fodder

BFB,
I have settled on the CCI Mini-Mags, or more correctly my Mod. 60 has. Tried a few other ammo types as each rifle has it's own favorite ammo: Remington Match EPS made by 'Eley' (good dime size groups); Eley Tenex (also good solid, smaller then a dime size groups, a few rounds touching each other, but expensive) Eley Target (bigger then a dime groups/occasional round 3/4" out of group); also Eley Club (quarter size groups). The CCI Mini Mags got almost single hole groups or 1/8" groups and I have fired approx. 300 rounds of CCI through my rifle; 200 out of one manufactured # and 20 from each of five 100 box's of another manufactured #. This to test consistency of the five box's. I also lightened my trigger pull from the original 8 1/2 Lbs to around 5 Lbs. Much smoother trigger pull, refer to http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143780

Good stuff, possible that the excessive trigger pull was throwing my POA off and since I made the adjustment before test firing the CCI's - improved the results over the other brands.

I have also tried a couple other ammo types but they are not worth a mention...except for the Remington 'Golden Bullet' they just plain S _ _K, all over the target, misfires, and failures to extract. I would gladly give them away however; I just cannot think of any one I hate that much. ;)

Semper Fi,
Mike
 

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mm1371

i'm with you!!!!!!!
cci rules
i threw the rems away after it turned my papoose into a jamo
plus that kid dug the rems out with a pocket knife.
had to replace complete bolt assembly.
now its back in bed with mini-mags.
sea-ya
gendoc
 

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:eek: :mad: "I HATE ALL REMINGTON RIMFIRE AMMO"!!!!!:mad: :pissed: :Flush: :cuss: -Blkwollf!!!
BLKWOLLF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY, POINT-BLANK, BAR-NONE CORRECT!!!!!!!!

YOU KNOW HOW I FEEL ABOUT THOSE REM GOLDEN SOMETHINGS:cuss:

kinda like the fed champions, but worse:yikes:
 

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:eek: :mad: "I HATE ALL REMINGTON RIMFIRE AMMO"!!!!!:mad: :pissed: :Flush: :cuss: -Blkwollf!!!
how could i forget my saying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i can't edit your quote but this will have to do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

THEM JUNK A_S REM GOLDEN SOMETHINGS:bthumb: :bthumb::D :D

YOU GOT IT BLKWOLLF
SEA-YA
 

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Both of the Model 60's I have, mid 1970 do very well on CCI Standard velocity.

Much more accurate than the CCI HV Mini Mag IMHO.

Watch out for binding barrel down the barrel grove in the forend area of the stock. I floated back to about 2.5" from the receiver. Difference in groups, as night is to day.

pipestone
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yes pipestone, I like to float my barrels ... Usually full length ... I almost always see an accuracy improvement from doing this.

Also, I like to install a piller at the front hold down screw ... An easy modification once you get the hang of it.
 

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BFB, can you tell me more about this floating of the barrel and installing a pillar at the front hold down screw. How thick or how high is the pillar? I have been trying to use a business card for a spacer gauge between the wood and the barrel. However, the spacing is not even.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Sure mm1371:

It is pretty straight forward.

First remove the outer magazine tube. Then get you a dowel rod of about 3/4" diameter. Cut the dowel to about an 8" length, and then wrap it with 220 grit sandpaper ... (I find it best to use one wrap and staple the sandpaper in place.

Just slide the papered dowel back an forth in the barrel channel ... work slowly, and check often so that you don't remove too much wood, such that it would leave too noticible a gap.

For the pillar, I use the ones available from Brownells. In order to determine the length of the pillar you will need a caliper measuring tool, but basically the length of the pillar will be about the same as the depth in the wood for the front hold down screw. I cut my pillar with a dremel tool, and I cut them a few thousandths longer than needed and then grind them down to the final fit.

The front hold down hole in the stock will need to be reamed to accomadate the thickness of the pillar, and then I secure the pillar with epoxy (I use Devcon)

The pilar prevents the hold down screw from embedding into the wood of yor stock, and keps your barrel floated for time to come.

Hope I helped.

BFB
 

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If you have metric or standard mechanic sockets for 3/8" drive, while you have the stock off lay various sizes in the channel-fit the sand paper and your good to go. If one side needs a little more off than the other, put a playing card on the opposite side and let it slide with the socket as you sand just the one side.

The Model 60 has a lot more moving parts to shake things out of kilt, and will rattle down the barrel plain.

pipestone
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Good point pipestone ... It is all to easy to remove too much material from the barrel channel ... Especially toward the front.

Like I say, work slowly, and check your work often ... Be especially careful not to remove too much wood (meaning uneven) along the forward parts of the barrel channel. This is why it is important to remove the outer magazine tube, as you can check your fit as you go along.

After your sanding is complete, treat the bare wood with a good oil stain or some such.

The pillar can be a bit tricky, but trust yourself ... You can do it!

BFB
 
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