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marlin 17vs

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does anyone know of a clip for the marlin 17vs that will mount flush when inserted or that can alter the clip to a smaller capacity to get the same results???
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If the clip is roughly like the 22 WMR's are, there is a post about cutting them down. I'm going to try to find it and post it here (I want to find it for me as well).

Here's a pic:

And here are instructions:

First scribe a Line around the magazine ½" up from the base. Use a pin or some other sharp object. This will be the finished length of the magazine-or thereabouts.

Next: Take a fine-toothed hacksaw and cut through the magazine between the base and that Line staying near the base. The spring is in there, yes. Just dance around it. It will get a bit scarred but will receive no real harm. Got the base off? The spring and follower should be falling out. Note how they went in. Save the base, as you will need it for the next step.
Take the base and look at it. See those dimples the factory pressed in? They hold the base on the body. You want to knock those out so place the base on a flat hard surface, cut side up, and tap them out. Now slide the base off of what was left of the magazine. Save the remainder of the magazine for a bit.

All of the following happens with the magazine in a vice, cut-side up. Position the magazine so that you can see the scribed Line above the vice jaws. You are going to make a couple of cuts down towards that line. As you look down on the opening it should be a rectangle with a channel impressed on both sides. (There are actually two of these channels: one to the front of the mag and a shorter one to the rear. We didn't cut through the rear one though so we'll forget it's there for now.) When I say, "corner" it will mean the corner of that rectangle.

Ok. Now take your fine-toothed hacksaw and cut crosswise, corner to corner, in an "X" fashion down to the scribed Line. This is a fast way to end up with four cuts, one in each corner. It's not rocket science and you don't have to be too accurate. Just be careful approaching the Line. You should now have a cut in all four corners that stops at the Line.

Now. See those indentations I talked about earlier? You want to isolate those indentations (channels) using saw cuts. So, make two cross cuts, one on each side of the channels, and again, down to that Line. Keep the cuts close to, but to the outside of those channels. You should now have eight saw-slits in the magazine. Stay with me now…
Take your saw and cut along the line on the very front and back of the mag body. You're removing the area between the corners. This will leave the sides standing proud from the mag body and the ends will now be to finished length. (Because you cut along that Line, right?) For some reason, this part screws people up. I hope you have it.
Now the fun begins. Place the magazine in your vice so that the scribed Line is flush with the top of your best and straightest vise-jaw. You're going to do some bending, using that jaw to assure a good straight, sharp bend along The Line.

Take a hammer and begin tapping the side panels on the side you're working on. Try to tap from the bottom, or work your way there as the metal bends. Do not try to bend the isolated channels. Bend the flat panels so that they are 90 degrees to the mag body now. [NOTE: I have seldom had a vise that had both jaws even and level. You may want to turn the magazine 180 degrees and align the opposite side's Line with your "good" jaw before bending that side.]

Now when you look at the magazine you should have four flanges sticking out at right angles to the body, and two unsightly channels sticking straight up. Now saw off those channels along The Line leaving the four flanges. You can file smooth as necessary to make the cut flush with the bends. You should now have only the four flanges sticking out of the magazine body, correct? Good. These flanges will be trimmed back to form the little lips that slide into the magazine Base you saved.

The Flanges should only project about 1/16 to 3/32 of an inch when you trim them back. You can trim (saw) and file until the base just slips on with a "tapping" fit. I use a Radio Shack sheet metal nibbler (about $7.95) to trim back the flanges, then I file as necessary; usually just a bevel to get the leading edge of the flange started into the groove on the base. Look at the chunk of magazine you removed from the Base for a model. Clean out any filings or crud from the inside of the magazine body.

Finally: reinstall the follower. I cut the very last elbow off of the spring before I insert it back into the mag body. With everything shoved into place, tap the base onto the flanges. Now take a punch (or big nail) and re-dimple those dimples you took out when you first got the base off.

You're done.

It actually takes ALOT longer to describe than to actually do. I chose this length because the finished mag holds 5 rounds, and because to shorten it more would mean that you'd have to mess with that second channel. Also, any shorter and the base would be lower than the magazine release. I think that might lead to accidental loss of a magazine sometime. As it is the magazine deflects anything that would otherwise contact the release. I'm still working on a push-button release that would allow a three-shot, flush fit magazine. That would make messing with that second channel worth the effort.

I was able to take off the bottom cover without taking out the dimples. I pryed the front end (end with round dimple, not the triangle-shaped one) slightly with a small screwdriver. I was then able to, while I was still prying, slide the front dimple off the mag. Then, I just took the screwdriver and used it to push the rest of the cover off.

The red slide will also need to be shortened (the instructions didn't mention that). About 1/4 inch should suffice, but a little more can be taken off if needed.

I, myself, haven't actually tried this. However, I'm going to try it tomorrow. If you have any questions just ask. I'll also try to have pics.
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