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Mark 11 Re-Barrel/Firing Pin Issues

485 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  gotcox
Just a note of caution for anyone contemplating a re-barrel project.
When we replaced the barrel on the Mark 11G, the bolt face was trued as part of the receiver threading process and headspace set to a minimum.
By design, the firing pin has that raised portion on the nose which I assume is to prevent chamber rim damage if dry fired.
I have noticed a VERY faint impression where the F.P. has been making contact with the barrel - Too shallow to photograph clearly and no damage done.
I re-profiled the F.P. nose and there is clearance now.
Ignition is very positive since the re-build and I'm not anticipating any mis fires.
I phoned Savage Arms in the U.S. to order some spares the other night. First time I've done this - Great customer service and my order was processed with a minimum of fuss. Thank-You, Savage.
Cheers,
Allan.
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Good work. That is the same thing i did with my FP. The last thing i want to do to mine is get the 20% stronger FP spring from savagegunsmithing and see how that works out.

One question Alan? Is the rifle going to be used as a BR rifle or for all kinds of shooting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The barrel is an Australian match grade MADDCO - Chamber cut with a Calfee No. 1 reamer.
I have the Savage Gunsmithing striker springs here but haven't tried one yet.
This build was done as a present for my little wife and was intended to be just a plinker.
The accuracy potential of this rifle has been an eye opener for me as demonstated from targets I've previously posted here. The trigger is the limiting factor. My wife does not like the Accu-trigger. I fitted the Rifle Basix SAV-RAT but still think I can come up with something better.
I'm trying to locate a couple of spare pull weight springs for the accu-trigger before I start cutting coils in case I make a mistake:eek:
This is a great little off hand rifle so if I can get a decent trigger break around 16 ozs. I'll be happy.
 

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The barrel is an Australian match grade MADDCO - Chamber cut with a Calfee No. 1 reamer.
I have the Savage Gunsmithing striker springs here but haven't tried one yet.
This build was done as a present for my little wife and was intended to be just a plinker.
The accuracy potential of this rifle has been an eye opener for me as demonstated from targets I've previously posted here. The trigger is the limiting factor. My wife does not like the Accu-trigger. I fitted the Rifle Basix SAV-RAT but still think I can come up with something better.
I'm trying to locate a couple of spare pull weight springs for the accu-trigger before I start cutting coils in case I make a mistake:eek:
This is a great little off hand rifle so if I can get a decent trigger break around 16 ozs. I'll be happy.
Good stuff. Ya i wish i had a pull gauge to see were my accu-trigger is at because it is supper light. I did a full smooth, cut springs job on mine per the info here in the savage forum. I will say this i have had it fire before i was ready twice and i would not want it any lighter. :eek: y thoughts on the springs for the trigger is the main spring that is on the adjustment from savage isn't anything to worry about. If you cut it to short all you have to do it tighten the adjustment and your back in business. The sear spring sets in a bucket on top of the sear, so if you cut to much all you would have to do is place a shim below the spring in the bucket. But as long as you take small cuts at a time and put it back together and safety check it you should be fine.

Mine has shown to be 100% safe in all ways after the trigger job and i have even test dropped it on the butt bad from about 3' with the safety off. I have a feeling the savagegunsmithing FP spring may make the trigger a small amount stiffer, but that is just a guess at this point till i get to try it.

Awesome job on the rifle BTW i have enjoyed your writeups and watching it progress. :bthumb:
 

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Good stuff. Ya i wish i had a pull gauge to see were my accu-trigger is at because it is supper light. I did a full smooth, cut springs job on mine per the info here in the savage forum. I will say this i have had it fire before i was ready twice and i would not want it any lighter. :eek: y thoughts on the springs for the trigger is the main spring that is on the adjustment from savage isn't anything to worry about. If you cut it to short all you have to do it tighten the adjustment and your back in business. The sear spring sets in a bucket on top of the sear, so if you cut to much all you would have to do is place a shim below the spring in the bucket. But as long as you take small cuts at a time and put it back together and safety check it you should be fine.

Mine has shown to be 100% safe in all ways after the trigger job and i have even test dropped it on the butt bad from about 3' with the safety off. I have a feeling the savagegunsmithing FP spring may make the trigger a small amount stiffer, but that is just a guess at this point till i get to try it.

Awesome job on the rifle BTW i have enjoyed your writeups and watching it progress. :bthumb:
I just installed the savage gun smith spring and it did cause the trigger slightly stiffer
 

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I just installed the savage gun smith spring and it did cause the trigger slightly stiffer
Good info and much as i had suspected. :bthumb: The good thing is that is should also speed up the lock time a small amount along with improving the FP strike.
 
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