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Mad at ruger.

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So this week I bought a 10/22 and a 22/45 and the 10/22 won't do better than a 2.5" group at 40 yards or so and keeps shaking the scope mount lose, stripped a thread and has very poor finish. I just got to take the 22/45 home today and I get it home to find out.... it doesn't work. It doesn't go "click" when it should which means it doesn't go boom at all.
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Sorry about your luck, but on the 10/22, not many of them will shoot much better than that out of the box. Thats why there are so many aftermarket parts to make them shoot. New barrel and trigger work will make it a shooter. On the 22/45, make sure the safety is off, or there won;t be any click.
 

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10/22

"a 2.5" group at 40 yards or so"

Were you bench-resting, standing off-hand or kneeling? What ammo were you using? Some barrels will prefer certain brands/types over others.

They're not all that bad, this one is basically stock, except for the Choate aftermarket stock, removal of the barrel band and a B&C mag release...zero in at 25yds that day

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225086
 

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"a 2.5" group at 40 yards or so"

Were you bench-resting, standing off-hand or kneeling? What ammo were you using? Some barrels will prefer certain brands/types over others.

They're not all that bad, this one is basically stock, except for the Choate aftermarket stock, removal of the barrel band and a B&C mag release...zero in at 25yds that day

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225086
Those are decent groups for a factory barrel and all, but I have seen some that would do worse than the 2.5". I have seen one or two that would shoot wadded groups right out of the box. Most are on the worse side, so that 2.5" is about average even off a bench.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh the magazine is in for sure but it's very hard to get in and out, yes the safety is off. I called the store I bought it at and we went over everything on the phone and it's having some kind of a problem for sure.

The 40 yard groups of 2.5" were using a BenchMaster rifle rest. 2.5" was as good as it got, some were much worse. that's worse than a 5" group at 100 Yards, I can't believe they're that bad from the factory.
 

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The 22/45 is worth the effort to get it running. They're good pistols. It's probably something simple.

There are tons of shooters here who have more experience with 10/22's than I do. My experience is with one 10/22 bought new years ago. Although I've had one for over 20 years it rarely gets shot. Before that I had a Marlin 99M2(?) that was a lot of fun to shoot. The chubby-stocked 10/22 doesn't shoot as well and I refuse to get a bunch of aftermarket parts to improve it..............chim
 

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I've not been impressed with the out-of-the-box consistency of the 10/22 compared to Marlin or Savage, but the ones I've fired were better than described.

Is the 22/45 new or used? Does your problem happen with both magazines?

If you inset a magazine, the bolt release button should move slightly up when the magazine is fully inserted. The bolt should lock back on an empty magazine. If that is happening then the problem might be with the mag disconnector spring or the sear spring. It would be hard to tell without looking.

If your gunshop can't help, a call to Ruger seems to be in order.

Check on www.guntalk-online.com. Bullseye is much better at diagnosing problems than I'll ever be.
 

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I've seldom just taken my 10/22's out and shoot groups with them. I've sighted them in and I've shot some pretty wide groups doing that, and I've shot some fairly tight ones. One thing I have noticed a couple of times though is the first couple, three shots from a cold barrel seems to go right where I want them to. Things open up from there. The more I shoot, the worse the group gets. Since I use mine for squirrel hunting and not much else that first shot cold barrel is what I'm shooting most of the time. Squirrels in the crosshairs seems to fall out of the tree more than they run off. The ones that run off, I can usually "play the tape back" and find something I did wrong.

I got no idea what might be wrong with your 22/45 unless it's just something not quite right with the magazine disconnect or the magazine. I hope you can get both of them running the way you want them too.
 

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GoClick,

When you pull the bolt back is it hard or easy? Basically, I want to know if the hammer is cocked or not when you are trying to release it with the trigger.

Checking the internal lock is a good idea as suggested above. If you can cycle the thumb safety on and off then the internal lock is not set or interfering with your hammer dropping.

Here's a link to a maintenance page for your 22/45 http://www.guntalk-online.com/2245detailstripping.htm

If all the applicable safetys are off then try flipping the pistol upside down, cycling the bolt and squeezing the trigger again (with the pistol inverted.) If the hammer falls, then your disconnector lever is not rising up under spring tension - perhaps the spring is not in the top of the trigger as it should be.

If when you retract the bolt the the tension is hard then the sear is not locking on the hammer hook. The hammer may be dragging internally.

Lastly, try pushing the bolt as far forward in the receiver as possible then try the trigger again. If it works then the bolt is not far enough forward to allow the disconnector lever to function properly.

Hope these suggestions help.

R,
Bullseye

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The 22/45 won't click rightside-up or upside-down, the safty moves free but the bolt release button is VERY hard to move. The bolt pulls back nice and easy then locks but it takes a lot of force on the release and a bit on the bolt to get it to go forward. Both magazines are difficult to push in and both produce the same result, no hammer drop.

I also can not dissasemble the gun it's stuck, I can flip the leaver and rotate the assembly back but that's it no amount of working or pulling will remove it or the bolt pin even with a soft mallet.

I'll try some different ammo and taking the clamp off the 10/22. Lots of people are saying they don't do much better than that from the factory but I don't believe it. 2.5" at 100 yards would be great, even at 50 I might not ***** but 40?
 

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Depressing the bolt release should be stiff when a magazine is installed. What year of manufacture is your 22/45? Do you have a hammer pivot pin with a head on the right side or just a straight one? You can tell if it has a head if it sticks out of the left side like the one in this picture.



Does the mainspring assembly rotate fully open out of the frame?

Is the bolt stop pin the part that is stuck in the receiver?

R,
Bullseye

 

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New as in out of the box, still wrapped in plastic? No one tweaked it to "improve" the trigger? The failure to go "click" was from the first time you tried it?

Sounds like the hammer is cocked and the sear won't release. I'm surprised that that would happen to a new pistol. I've been there when I tweaked the pretravel adjustment. If it is the sear, then inserting a magazine, holding the pistol muzzle down (vertical) and striking the muzzle on a carpeted floor while pulling the trigger should release the sear. See #1 in the link.

http://www.guntalk-online.com/TroubleshootingPage.htm

However, if it came out of the wrapper that way, I'd be sorely tempted to talk to the gunshop and make a call to Ruger.
 

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I should hope it's brand spanking new that's what I paid for.

I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow, I can see this turning into a big fiasco :(
No it's not. Calm down. Assuming the worst and you have somehow or the other gotten a defective pistol, either the shop will exchange it, give you your money back or at worst you'll have to send it back to Ruger and they'll fix or replace it. Annoying, I'm sure, but it can be corrected.
 

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GoClic t

he 22/45 i cant say much about except you bought a Ruger, here is Australia just about every dealer has tryed to pull stunts since gun control came in except Ruger, yes defects like over sized springs happen a burr or 2 on a slide.. but Ruger will fix it.

the 10/22, of 6 that where tested for a magazine here the groups at 50 meters (54.5 yards) was between 1.8 inch and 3.5 inch with our top 3 shooters doing the run on all 6 rifles..

Ruger 10/22 barrels are made to last and not cost money by warrenty returns theres a video about the net showing green mountain compared to Ruger factory.

you get what you pay for in both cases..

green mountain and other target type barrels have that extra work put into them that Ruger cant to keep the rifle competative.
Ruger makes a solid reliable rifle . (full stop) they dont say target at any time.

but WE ( gun nuts) realised its a great platform to mod to be many things including a tack driver at 200 meters ( i prefer parker hale for this but..)

so make it YOUR tack driver or anything you want..

look at the advertisers here for a start, but you want a 2" group at 100meters every time start at green mountain we know em here even in Australia..

i've fitted a heap for my customers and never seen and bad one and i shoot everything i fit..
but hers a heap of others too,

the ruger was a good call but its a work horse, no frills.. now make it what you want.. your way, thats what this place is about mate!!

cheers

jack
 
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