[Av1at0r]

This post deals with ammo choices for the M&P 22 LR Full Size pistol and how best to clean the firearm.

I bought my M&P 22 as a companion firearm to a Tippmann M4-22 Elite for competition. Unlike the M-4, which has cycled almost any brand of ammo, the MP 22 has consistently malfunctioned, to the point of never having used it in a match. I haven't yet taken it to a gunsmith, in part because of concluding that I might not have found an ammo it likes.

Recently, shooting CCI Mini-Mag (40 gr–1235 fps) and AR Tactical (40 gr–1200) has almost led me to believe the search was over, but consistency once again hasn't been adequate.

An NRA instructor suggested that it sounded like the problem might be caused by lower bullet weights and muzzle velocities. Yesterday I tried Aquila Interceptor (40 gr–1470). I understand that manufacturer's claims are typically inflated and don't reflect the velocity from a handgun barrel, but the relative performance of this ammo in the MP 22 indicates that I might have finally found a solution.

Another possibility is that the firearm needs to be cleaned more frequently and run wetter. A local gunsmith and a Distinguished Master IDPA instructor have both suggested that it's almost impossible to over-lubricate a modern semi-automatic weapon.

Any comments / suggestions would be appreciated on these two topics.

W.H. "Tosh" McIntosh
LtCol USAF (Ret)

 

[OutInTheSun]

What works for me

Hi Tosh - i see this post is from Sept. i have a full size mp22 and use it in steel competition. It is very close to 100% reliable with Remington golden bullets, cci mini mag, and cci ar tactical. Some that have run bad for me are federal champion, Eley force 42gr. Also field strip and clean about every 3-400 rounds. Very reliable for me.

 

[Av1at0r]

Thanks for the info.

The most reliable ammo I've found continues to be Aguila 40 gr Interceptor. I think the higher velocity helps offset the extra weight of the OuterImpact adapter and Holosun ACSS Vulcan red dot, which others have suggested might be a factor.

I would be very interested in your field strip and cleaning protocol, including details on the steps you take and products. I've found that the advice I mentioned, that it's almost impossible to over-lubricate a modern semi-auto firearm, has provided the best reliability. I'm currently using a generous application of Direct Action Lubricant as the final step.

Thanks again, and I look forward to receiving any other advice you might share.

Tosh

 

[Kfxguy]

When it jams or misfires, what does it do? is it a ftf? stovepipe? failure to eject? most problems are easily remedied. I hate the thought of ANY of my guns requiring certain ammo just to function, that just isnt acceptable to me. I feel like any HV stuff should cycle and run....if it doesn't, in my opinion, its a gun problem and not an ammo problem.

 

[Av1at0r]

When it jams or misfires, what does it do? is it a ftf? stovepipe? failure to eject? most problems are easily remedied. I hate the thought of ANY of my guns requiring certain ammo just to function, that just isnt acceptable to me. I feel like any HV stuff should cycle and run....if it doesn't, in my opinion, its a gun problem and not an ammo problem.

Thanks for the comment, and I generally agree.

At one time or another, I've had all three of those, and I concluded that the problem is probably the gun based reading that unlike the compact MP22, the full size is much more prone to malfunction. In the months since this original post, I've managed to increase reliability by using Interceptor and keeping the pistol wetter. The last couple of range sessions have been almost perfect, with exception of a couple of last-round failures.

 

[OutInTheSun]

I also run a red dot mounted in the slide. I have a site dove tail cut adapted and a Vortex venom. There is no doubt the Red dot can cause cycling problems. Before mounting the red dot, mine would cycle even standard velocity ammo. After mounting, only high velocity will cycle.

What happens with the SV ammo for me, is the slide does not fully cycle and would often leave brass in the chamber leading to a jam. If that is what happens to you, might be good to try a lighter weight RD. I think the venom with battery weighs right at an ounce.

On field stripping and cleaning, i remove the slide and spring, then clean out the frame, slide and barrel. It is pretty dirty by time i clean somewhere between 200-400 rounds. I lightly coat the slide’s grooves where it mounts to frame with oil, and the ears on the frame pretty liberally with oil, the hammer top, and the back of the slide where the hammer contacts the slide back around the firing pin.

I do a light coating of gun grease on the oiled frame ears and hammer top. I do this since i am seeing some fair wear on the frame at these points.

 

[OutInTheSun]

Subscribing

 

[TMW99577]

I use Hornady One Shot to lube my semi-auto rimfires. Everything else collects firing residue and makes a big mess.

 

[JH1961]

LOL re: modern guns needing to be run 'wet'. My Glocks will run on just the oil wiped from around my nose and applied to the gun's rails by fingertip.

 

[Dannybot]

I found I have to clean mine at least every 100 rounds to run reliably, regardless of ammo. If I do, it’s reliable, if I don’t, it won’t cycle.