I found some topics on here describing the process to refinish a "checkered" stock. I'm pretty much rethinking my winter camo idea.
LVT Stock refinish
Recently acquired an "LVT" stock and barrel combo from a new in box "take off".
I want to refinish the stock in a spray on winter camo. I want to use something like Krylon. I also want to attempt the sponge pattern I've seen. I know I need to sand the original finish but not sure about the checkering on the grip and forend. How would I ensure paint adhesion in the checked areas?
I want to refinish the stock in a spray on winter camo. I want to use something like Krylon. I also want to attempt the sponge pattern I've seen. I know I need to sand the original finish but not sure about the checkering on the grip and forend. How would I ensure paint adhesion in the checked areas?
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I wouldn't have thought of it in
the first place.
... skwerl
the first place.
... skwerl
I have stared at a photo for over a year of a camo rifle. I think a Tika center fire.
I really like the finish and would suit my purposes for small game here in North Idaho. I finally
got the build started when I ran into the LVT barrel. My inspiration below.
I really like the finish and would suit my purposes for small game here in North Idaho. I finally
got the build started when I ran into the LVT barrel. My inspiration below.
I know they make a camo wrap for stocks (maybe cheaper?) Premium Camo Rifle Kit | Rifle Camo Wrap | Camowraps® |
And if you change your mind, it's only a $35.00 mistake.
And if you change your mind, it's only a $35.00 mistake.
That wrap is a very interesting idea. Thanks for the heads up
I would use a scuff pad to dull the checkered area, and clean it well before spraying. A clean toothbrush may work to get into the tight areas to make sure it's clean.
Wipe down the sanded stock with alcohol, and blow or tack off any lint.
Spray just enough base paint to get it covered, plus one more medium wet coat - just enough to get it to lay down smoothly and not be "dry". A satin clear coat is also a possibility once you have done the patterning. Wear gloves, and don't touch the painted areas with bare hands if you plan to clear it.
Again, less is more, so spray it wet enough to get a smooth flow - but don't overdo it.
Durability decreases with thickness.
Wipe down the sanded stock with alcohol, and blow or tack off any lint.
Spray just enough base paint to get it covered, plus one more medium wet coat - just enough to get it to lay down smoothly and not be "dry". A satin clear coat is also a possibility once you have done the patterning. Wear gloves, and don't touch the painted areas with bare hands if you plan to clear it.
Again, less is more, so spray it wet enough to get a smooth flow - but don't overdo it.
Durability decreases with thickness.
Yeah that's what I really want to do. Plus the experience of doing it myself has an appeal. Your outline is very helpful. Thankyou
This is how the rifle stands today (temporarily assembled).
Weigand 1022 one piece receiver mount-1" scope rings
Vortex Crossfire II 3X9X40 (ring pads not trimmed)
Waiting on Uncle Mike's front sling screws for Picatinny bipod mount.
Really like the balance with the LVT heavy taper barrel
I should also add the wife is not happy about the camo idea.
![Air gun Wood Trigger Shotgun Gun barrel]()
Weigand 1022 one piece receiver mount-1" scope rings
Vortex Crossfire II 3X9X40 (ring pads not trimmed)
Waiting on Uncle Mike's front sling screws for Picatinny bipod mount.
Really like the balance with the LVT heavy taper barrel
I should also add the wife is not happy about the camo idea.
I e spray painted several guns, never once scuffed the finish up or sanded it. The most I’ve done is simply degrease it with brake clean on metal and for wood and plastic just simple green or plain 91% isopropyl alcohol. Give it a bit to dry off and then paint.
Fair warning for you, if you decide you want to remove the spray paint down the line it will remove the finish off the wood also. Citristrip works best and doesn’t leave behind sanding marks you have to remove. Having also refinished several firearm stocks with checkering just apply your Citristrip to the area and once ready scrub it with an old tooth brush. Once the finish is gone and you want to sand it apply some masking tape to the checkering so the sand paper/cabinet scrapers don’t touch it. A lighting sanding with 220/320 grit with a wetting will get it ready for what ever finish you apply.
Fair warning for you, if you decide you want to remove the spray paint down the line it will remove the finish off the wood also. Citristrip works best and doesn’t leave behind sanding marks you have to remove. Having also refinished several firearm stocks with checkering just apply your Citristrip to the area and once ready scrub it with an old tooth brush. Once the finish is gone and you want to sand it apply some masking tape to the checkering so the sand paper/cabinet scrapers don’t touch it. A lighting sanding with 220/320 grit with a wetting will get it ready for what ever finish you apply.
That’s a great plan Guitarist. Thank you for the advice.
That rifle is really nice looking the way it is. I would keep that stock as is and find a plastic stock to paint.
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