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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
been through about 50 pages or so looking for step by step info on cleaning. found a lot of useful info on products for cleaning a lubing. havent found enough detailed information on cleaning and relubing.

could someone point me towards a link that shows exactly what parts need to be cleaned, what and where dry lube should be sprayed on? Pics would be helpful if youve got them.

thanks,
daniel
 

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A resource would be good.

I disassemble the entire weapon. I clean the entire weapon. Parts that are really dirty get extra attention.

I use BreakFree CLP for cleaning. It cleans very well. I do not leave a big greasy mess, I wipe the entire surface down and then rub it for heat. (Same trick is used for Militec-1-but you must clean the weapon with something else first.)

After several cleaning the surfaces are smoother as they have stiffened because of the CLP. They won't get as dirty as when the gun was new, and they clean up must faster.

I am pretty religious about cleaning after every range trip, but I can do most weapons in under 20 minutes. It just keeps getting better and easier as they get more use.

Also, I rarely have any weapons in "storage." At most a firearm in my house might get a three month nap...but that's about it.
 

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IDriveB5 , I apologize if it looks as if I am hijacking your thread, but I think we are after the same information.

markdperkins, I guess what I wonder about is whether to oil the trigger group at all. I believe some here have said not to put anything there. Also, is oil on the hammer a good idea?

Sorry if these seem like newbie question, but I are one. :)

Scrappy
 

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Lubrication

I personally will lube the trigger group with Break Free CLP if I know that I wont be shooting for awhile. That way the CLP can dry up. I usually completely disassemble the trigger group for FULL clean. Because of the CLP being allowed to dry repeatedly when I do go into a shooting period I dont lubricate the trigger group at all. As to the Bolt: take it out, wipe it clean, spray with CLP, rub it till it is warm and dry then let it sit for awhile (preferrably overnight) before reassembling. For the barrel I have become a big fan of the boresnake. I like to avoid using the ramrod as much as possible to prevent damaging the crown or rilfling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
scrappy, no problem at all

right now, i have been using a boresnake in the barrel after reading the threads about damaging the crown with a rod. i put a little hoppes 9 on the boresnake before the little brush part. after i make it through this bottle of hoppes 9, i might try some break free.

what method do you all use for cleaning up the reciever(where the mag loads and the round chambers)?

what areas should be sprayed with dri-lube? procedure?

and finally whats the accepted method of drifting out the reciever cross pins, id like to do it with out marring the paint.
 

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receiver cross pins

Mine are pretty well worn now and just slip out, but when new I just used a wooden chopstick (ancient armorer's secret.)

Boresnakes are the way to go, **** straight!

For dry lube, all you really need is the contact points between bolt and receiver, where the action naturally slides.

Keep the action dry. That doesn't mean you can't clean it, but you do not want any moisture/stickiness/slickeriness down there. I use CLP, but really only for cleaning/protection.

For CLP to work well it needs to be rubbed hard to the point were it nearly vanishes. It will create a bond with the metal and stiffen the surface. Eventually this will keep the weapon cleaner and therefore make future cleaning easier.

I am told that Militec-1 does much the same thing to the surface but is a dry lube rather than suspended in oil like CLP. Since however Militec-1 is not a cleaner, I am sticking to the one bottle solution of BreakFree that I have used since the 1980's.

I use it one all things firearms with the one exception of my Glocks that have the factory copper-based lube. Mostly, I just like the little black bottle with the Glock logo on it :)
 

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IDriveB5 said:
scrappy, no problem at all

right now, i have been using a boresnake in the barrel after reading the threads about damaging the crown with a rod. i put a little hoppes 9 on the boresnake before the little brush part. after i make it through this bottle of hoppes 9, i might try some break free.

what method do you all use for cleaning up the reciever(where the mag loads and the round chambers)?

what areas should be sprayed with dri-lube? procedure?

and finally whats the accepted method of drifting out the reciever cross pins, id like to do it with out marring the paint.
Drive85,

Here's a nice trick that I've found out that you all might consider. Use a .17 caliber rod/jag made from brass. For patches I use Hoppe's cuz it's big enough to use with this rod. See... crowns get dinged when we all use the 22 caliber rods cuz it's/their too close to the size of the bore. Using a .17 rod is small enough to use when inserting the rod for cleaning. Once the jag and patch is in use your thumb and fore-finger to help guide the rod all the way through. It's kinda like using a bore guide. My method one can only use solvent to clean but for a good chemical cleaning nothing beats a well soaked barrel with solvent. I think this process should be use in the Volquartsen barrels cu I believe brass couldn't scratch their barrels that bad. Let me know what you guys think.

wmrimfire,22
 
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