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Laminated stock improvements(?)

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I've got my laminated stock to play around with while I put a Fajen to use on the actual gun.

I'm sanding the fore-end support down to free float the barrel, and plan to bed things too. (Any other suggestions of mods for shooting performance would be appreciated)

But are there any suggestions for adding some "bling" to my laminated stock? Is there anything I can do (or have done for me) to improve upon the cosmetics of my factory stock?
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Thanks for asking the questions Fitty.
I was also wondering this weekend when shooting my T.
To add to your questions if you don't mind, will high humidity be a factor with this laminate stock? Should it be sealed or will enough free float take care of that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Kozmos.... and to add yet another on your other:

I kind of assumed that because our stock is laminated, it must already be sealed (or is it?). BUT, should I be sealing or treating the now sanded away surface area that I've created as a result of baring the once finished wood?

I have slowly been reaching the point of sensory overload with all the information and seemingly conflicted opinions/reports via RimfireCentral.com.....
Ferinstance:
* "Tupperware" (plastic) stocks flex via the heat of a warmed barrel
* synthetic stocks change shape when exposed to heat/cold
* wood stocks are susceptible to humidity
* bedding only works well on certain stocks
* bedding & barrels make no difference unless or until you're an EXPERT shooter

etc, Etc., ET CETERA !?!?!

In the meantime I can have fun with it, but I guess I should be out shooting some more rather than subscribing to the voodoo of expensive mods.
 

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Well, here in sunny and humid Florida, a laminated stock is almost a requirement! And yes, you should seal the areas you sand just to be safe. On the matter of material expansion - everything will change its shape somewhat under certain conditions. The trick is to control as many variables as is possible. An aluminum barrel will change differently than a steel barrel, and a fluted is different than a solid which is different than a .920 which is different that a sporter taper. I try to keep the temperature and humidity as stable as possible. Shooting outdoors try to keep in the shade, that sort of thing.
 

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To improve the looks of the factory stock slightly, you could install a grip cap and maybe a forend cap. If you want to change the color, you could strip it down and stain/dye it. Maybe even sand the grip down a bit to add more of a hook to the grip.

You should seel any parts of the stock where the factory finish has been removed.

Most "plastic" stocks will flex. The problem area is the forend. It can sometimes flex and put unwanted pressure on your barrel in different locations, depending on your grip on the rifle.

Glass bedding a plastic stock requires roughing up the surface and extensive cleaning to remove all mold release that was used in the manufacturing process. The mold release was used in the factory to prevent the stock from sticking in the mold..........It does the same thing when bedding. If you don't remove it, the glass won't stick.

Bedding and barrels always make a difference, it just shows up better if you can shoot. For example, if you take a standard carbine with good optics and good ammo and good bedding and mount that carbine in a shooting vice to eliminate ALL movement............You will shoot smaller groups with it than if you were shooting offhand. Add a match barrel and it will shoot even smaller groups. It will be very noticeable in the viced rifle but barely noticeable offhand, BUT...........there will be an improvement.

Practically all materials change shape/dimention when exposed to heat or cold. Steel changes, so does aluminum, wood and plastic. Fiberglass will probably be the most stable (McMillan), but it too will "flex" to some degree.

The key to accuracy is eliminating varibles as much as possible.

swampf0x
 
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