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Is dry sanding and wipe on poly still the way to go? Been searching and reading but A) a lot of posts are years old and B) a lot want to change colors etc.

I just want to bring some shine and depth back to the stock. It’s a black and grey and is generally in fine shape, just want it to have a good sheen.

Thanks for any advice.
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Is dry sanding and wipe on poly still the way to go? Been searching and reading but A) a lot of posts are years old and B) a lot want to change colors etc.

I just want to bring some shine and depth back to the stock. It’s a black and grey and is generally in fine shape, just want it to have a good sheen.

Thanks for any advice.
Hello, over the years, I’ve tried about everything. My go to finish is still truoil. It’s easy to apply and depending on the method used, can make a stock look like a piece of glass or just have a nice sheen. Truoil will change a little as it cures. A glossy stock will turn into a nice satin finish after a few months. Most of the time, I will only add enough coats to have a smooth finish on the stock. The guys who buy my stocks aren’t looking for, or expect to get an exhibition grade stock finish. They will have to do that themselves.
The main thing to getting a great finish is preparing the wood. Most of my stocks are only finished to 500 grit. On some woods, I will do a final wet sand to seal the grain with 500 grit.
The last couple stocks I built for myself were finished with spray lacquer. My only problem with using the spray, is the weather, since my spraying is done outside, cold weather can be a problem.
l haven’t used the wipe on poly, but I’ve used the spray version. It will do a good job also.
You mentioned, some of my stocks have color added. Most of the time, the wood will be maple. Sometimes the figured grain in a nice piece of maple will need a little help, there’s nothing more contrasting than a curley maple stock.
I’m not the person you will want to talk to about staining and dying wood. I stumble through this process. Sometimes it turns out like it should and sometimes it will end up with a redo. This is not my expertise. There’s a big learning curve there.
I hope this information helps.
Larry
 

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Appreciate it and that’s perfect. Not interested in doing anything crazy or revolting, will read up more on the options, again just want to sand it and refinish it.
I’ve used the oil based finishes on laminate stocks (Truoil and Mineax antique oil finish). They will darken the colors. One of the stocks l did was just too dark . I ended up sanding it back down and used a satin lacquer spray (deft) and it turned out great. The colors were nice and bright.
Art Rectangle Pattern Metal Wood


l did this stock a couple year’s ago, it is truoil. It was a Boyd’s blank. You’ll notice the colors aren’t as sharp and distinct
Plant Grass Metal Natural material Gun accessory
 

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From my reading, basically, two types of wood finishes exist: penetrating (oils and stains) and non-penetrating (sits on top of the wood—paint). I prefer the penetrating finish, because it becomes part of the wood, not just a layer.

I have refinished 6 or so Russian M91/30 and German K98 laminated stocks, which were in horrible condition: huge dents, scrapes, dirt covered: scrap wood. The cost was minimal, and I bought them to practice refinishing. The wood was very good, once I got down to it. I do NOT know if modern laminated wood will delaminate with modern thinners (mineral spirits).
The following is only my results.

Any stain, including clear, darkens the wood. I have no idea how that works. Clear should be clear, but it makes the wood darker. Go figure.

I have tried various wood finishes. The one I like the best is 100% tung oil, not a commercial product calling itself tung oil finish, because those products contain only 10% tung oil, if that much. I dilute 100% tung oil with mineral spirits in 1 part 100% tung oil to 3 parts mineral spirits. I have found this mixture to do well for the above stocks, as well as for Swiss K31 and 1903 stocks. 100% tung oil is thick and will not penetrate deeply without dilution. I use mineral spirits to penetrate the wood, taking the tung oil with it. As the mineral spirits dry, which takes a long time, more tung oil is drawn into the wood. I do not apply more than the wood can absorb, and I wipe off any excess. When the wood stops absorbing it, you stop applying it. Once dry (give it a week in the summer—two months in the winter—and besides, you don’t want your house smelling like mineral spirits or tung oil, plus you don’t want the associated fire hazard). Dried tung oil leaves a hard penetrating finish, the same texture as the prepared wood, but it darkens the wood. Way, way back, the Chinese used tung oil for waterproofing on their ships.

I do not know how to make shiny wood finishes: I leave that to the experts. If you want a shiny finish messed up, I am your man.

You may wish getting scrap wood to practice which finish you like better. This may sound nutty: I have found that some pallets are made with hard wood, and can be had for the asking. Refinish a few planks of that wood to perfect your methods, and to get to know which finishes you like. The cost is minimal, and it beats messing up a good stock.

Also, do all wood finishing prior to bedding the stock: I learned this the hard way.
 

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It is wood, basically plywood. Finish it just like you would solid wood. Lots of different wood finishes available from not very durable to extremely tough, slow process to get done to rather quickly. I switched to quick and tough many years ago. Noremf, a passed on member, had a post about a misted lacquer finish and it is one of the easiest to do, results in one of the toughest, and also one of the easiest to repair if dinged. I don;t know if his posts survived the format change or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
From my reading, basically, two types of wood finishes exist: penetrating (oils and stains) and non-penetrating (sits on top of the wood—paint). I prefer the penetrating finish, because it becomes part of the wood, not just a layer.

I have refinished 6 or so Russian M91/30 and German K98 laminated stocks, which were in horrible condition: huge dents, scrapes, dirt covered: scrap wood. The cost was minimal, and I bought them to practice refinishing. The wood was very good, once I got down to it. I do NOT know if modern laminated wood will delaminate with modern thinners (mineral spirits).
The following is only my results.

Any stain, including clear, darkens the wood. I have no idea how that works. Clear should be clear, but it makes the wood darker. Go figure.

I have tried various wood finishes. The one I like the best is 100% tung oil, not a commercial product calling itself tung oil finish, because those products contain only 10% tung oil, if that much. I dilute 100% tung oil with mineral spirits in 1 part 100% tung oil to 3 parts mineral spirits. I have found this mixture to do well for the above stocks, as well as for Swiss K31 and 1903 stocks. 100% tung oil is thick and will not penetrate deeply without dilution. I use mineral spirits to penetrate the wood, taking the tung oil with it. As the mineral spirits dry, which takes a long time, more tung oil is drawn into the wood. I do not apply more than the wood can absorb, and I wipe off any excess. When the wood stops absorbing it, you stop applying it. Once dry (give it a week in the summer—two months in the winter—and besides, you don’t want your house smelling like mineral spirits or tung oil, plus you don’t want the associated fire hazard). Dried tung oil leaves a hard penetrating finish, the same texture as the prepared wood, but it darkens the wood. Way, way back, the Chinese used tung oil for waterproofing on their ships.

I do not know how to make shiny wood finishes: I leave that to the experts. If you want a shiny finish messed up, I am your man.

You may wish getting scrap wood to practice which finish you like better. This may sound nutty: I have found that some pallets are made with hard wood, and can be had for the asking. Refinish a few planks of that wood to perfect your methods, and to get to know which finishes you like. The cost is minimal, and it beats messing up a good stock.

Also, do all wood finishing prior to bedding the stock: I learned this the hard way.
I used real Tung Oil from Real Milk Paint for 22/45 scales, I generally agree with the preference and they came out great, natural live oak, no stain.

That said, from reading about these colored laminate stocks, between the glue and coloring and pressure used, at least it’s claimed they don’t really have grain to absorb the tun oil before it polymerizes. Happy to be wrong?
 
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