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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had the K22 out yesterday. After shooting the first cylinder the action started binding in either single or double action. As I pull the hammer to cock it or pull the trigger there is a binding feel. I can pull through it but if I turn the cylinder by hand just the tiniest bit it relieves the binding.

Thoughts?

Thanks.
 

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I had a 17-3 that was binding real bad. The gun was like new and purchased new in the late 70s or early 80s. The solution was simple, call S&W and send it back for repair. The cost to repair my 17-3 was $50 including shipping. They will send you a shipping label and call you with a quote once they look at it. From my experience, of a couple of times, S&W is cheaper than any local gunsmith.
 

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I had a K frame (model 14) with binding problems - I diagnosed it as a problem with the hand so I got a new hand and it didn't fix anything no matter how much I grinded on the new hand.

I sent it to S&W and they replaced the cylinder stop and all the springs I had replaced with lighter springs years ago to get a lighter trigger pull.

They charged me $70 (this included the shipping back to me) and I had $50 in shipping it to them. - It was well worth it.

I can kinda work my way around 1911's but those revolvers are still a mystery to me even with Kuhnhausen's manual.

You might call them to see if they'll send you a shipping label - even if you have to pay for the label I suspect they have a deal with UPS and it will cost less.
 

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As suggested above, clean out under the case extractor. Does not take much of a accumulation of residue under it to cause dylinder binding. Get a old tooth brush and some solvent. Might solve the problem.
 

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K22 Cylinder binding

Hello,

Good advise from everybody...

I worked for S&W for about 6 years building revolvers, you may want to check this as well.

Check to see if the extractor rod is bent. I will make the cylinder bind.

With the gun flat on a table and the cylinder open, just spin it slowly and look at the end of the extractor rod. It should have little or no runout. If it does it will need to be straightened.

To do this your self, bring the high spot to the top and LIGHTLY tap it down. Continue this slowly until you get it to spin with NO rinout. It might time, just go slow.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the help. I'll check those ideas out and let you know. If it's not something simple to spot and fix I'm good with sending it to SW. I've used them before with good luck too.

I bought a Model 48 once and was getting sprayed with every shot. I checked the cylinder - barrel gap and it was .020"! Sent it in, came back set to spec, and they charged me $60. Can't beat it - one of the last old world kind of things isn't it. You can send a 57 year old revolver back to the factory and have it diagnosed and repaired for a very fair price!!
 

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I had a K-22 (made in the 1950's) for several years and sold it to a friend. Both of us had similar hard rotation problems with the cylinder. I had found and failed to report to him that the lead build up on the end of the barrel and the cylinder face must be cleaned off at every gun cleaning and that's about every range session.

I used a metal brush to remove the lead deposits. The gap is small (at least that is the way I set mine up when I re-barreled it with a new barrel...but per the S&W specs) and the lead buildup can make the cylinder drag on the barrel. Using copper plated ammo MAY help (??).

LDBennett
 

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The cylinder can drag on the barrel because, as someone said, an acculation of powder residue under the extractor star. But, as I found out on an M18 and an M17, the barrel/cylinder gap can disappear because of wear on the crane as well.

The screw that hold the crane in the frame (just above the trigger) can, over time with many, many openings and closings of the cylinder, dish out the face of the flange on the crane that it contacts. I don't know if the heat treatment of the crane was insufficient or what but I've had two with this same problem. The first was that way when I got it, but the second (M17) I bought new. After about 25,000 rounds, I had to send it back to the factory to get this fixed.

I had the factory replace the 8 3/8" barrel with a 6" barrel at the same time. They did EXCELLENT work at a reasonable price. The bore of the 8 3/8", even after some 25,000 rounds, looks perfect.
 
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