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Is a beech stock worth it?

741 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Kilerham
I have had a 10 year run with my LVT. I started my time here at RFC based on this rifle. This is where I am at:

-KIDD Bolt and charging handle
-KIDD Guide rail and springs
-KIDD Trigger Job
-KIDD Heavy Taper Barrel

You see where this going, I have built a dark horse and I have this dang beech stock in my hands. I keep looking at a Titan22, but my main purpose of this rifle has been keeping it a woods gun, which it has been for 10 years.

The beech stock needs to be opened up some with the new KIDD barrel installed and I keep thinking if I am going to go through the trouble, might as well by a walnut DSP stock, but THE Titan22 seems like a good option.

So, I love the look of wood and that is why I am torn here. I can keep the beech stock, open up the channel a bit and keep going, knowing that I am not really maximizing the rifles potential or get the TITAN22 and start chasing small groups.

PLEASE HELP!
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You can always pillar bed your stock. It will help, or keep it just how you like it. The wood will always move a bit, especially in the field.

I really like the Magpul x-22 hunter stock. Especially for a field gun. If you happen to get rid of the wood
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Air gun Trigger Machine gun Wood Shotgun

This gun shoots little bitty groups with good ammo.
Burn that wood and sand it down. It should bring out some good tone. Bed the barrel all the way down. I went with a sporter barrel so I could use the barrel band to keep it secure. A lot of accuracy issues is the barrel shifting in comparison where the scope is on the action and not the barrel. If the guns all tight and things don’t vibrate around the bullet only has one place to go.
Cheers. I like wood. Especially on a classic looking hunting gun.
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Imho, the Victor Titans advantage is the rear tang. You can buy one for your gun , and have your wood stock inlet for that. Or just buy the Victor Titan and use it on the bench , and the wood one in the woods.
Have you tape bedded the receiver for the wood stock? If not try that first. Also check the length of the action screw, if its too long , thats a problem. The VQ action screws are nice and short.
Also a pressure pad, little square of bicycle inner tube under the tapered end of your barrel mighthelp.
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View attachment 363239
This gun shoots little bitty groups with good ammo.
Burn that wood and sand it down. It should bring out some good tone. Bed the barrel all the way down. I went with a sporter barrel so I could use the barrel band to keep it secure. A lot of accuracy issues is the barrel shifting in comparison where the scope is on the action and not the barrel. If the guns all tight and things don’t vibrate around the bullet only has one place to go.
Cheers. I like wood. Especially on a classic looking hunting gun.
View attachment 363240
That looks really nice. Did you follow a guide? What finish methods did you use? Thanks.
That looks really nice. Did you follow a guide? What finish methods did you use? Thanks.
Check my started threads for the story. It’s a house fire save stock.
Cheers


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either mod a DSP, or better yet, the Talo French Walnut stock available from S&P
I am looking at one. Will I be able to open it enough to fit a .760 barrel to fit?
I am looking at one. Will I be able to open it enough to fit a .760 barrel to fit?
If you take a socket and wrap it with sand paper and work the channel.


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If you take a socket and wrap it with sand paper and work the channel.


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Im worried about having to open it up so much in the last 3-4" of the forearm, that it is too thin and I might be playing games with the structural integrity.
Im worried about having to open it up so much in the last 3-4" of the forearm, that it is too thin and I might be playing games with the structural integrity.
People do it with a full bull pipe. I wouldn’t sweat it.


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