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How To Bed A Barral?

3167 Views 42 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  Moorespeedr
On my factory stock i have 7 inches of barral to bed. Is there an easy way to do this? I dont want to spend alot of money and would like to use household or hardware store materiels. Please help me.:(
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I've been away from this forum for a week or two, so I jump right back in.
Brownell's AcraGlass is the preferred bedding compound, and is available from pretty much any gunshop (and even some sporting goods stores that sell guns, like Gart Bros/Oshman's). It comes with everything you need to bed. Brownell's has a couple different versions of the kit, one is basic, one is gel form, one has steel powder, etc. The kits usually cost around $18, for the basic or gel ones, and about $20 more for the SteelBed. One of the best upshots of the Brownell's kit is that it comes with brown and black dyes, to match your stock if you're worried about some of the epoxy showing. Go to www.brownells.com to look at all their bedding stuff.
You can also use other off-the-shelf epoxies to bed, and I've had great success with JB Weld (don't use the JB Quik, it sets way too fast to work with.) Another epoxy that a lot of gunsmiths and gunowners use is Devcon Plastic Steel. It's a bit harder to track down, but I've heard it works great. Wal-Mart sells other Devcon epoxies, so that should be able to order it for you. I would imagine that any epoxy with a steel additive would work fine, but I haven't tried any myself, and "standard" epoxies might be too brittle because they don't come with any stiffener material (flocking) that other epoxies have.
Keep in mind there are a couple things you should get as well, regardless of what you bed with. I'd get some modelling clay (any cheap stuff, I've used $1 RoseArt stuff, but make sure it's the kind that doesn't dry out. This will be used for your "dam", so the epoxy doesn't go where you don't need it. I usually pick up a pack of "assorted" grit sandpaper, and the 3M Wet-or-Dry tends to work better with hard epoxies. The other main ingredient that you'll need (only if you decide to use something other than a bedding kit) is some sort of release agent, so that your barrel doesn't get epoxied to the stock. I've used RemOil without any problems, and I've heard that the stuff that comes in bedding kits is usually just cooking spray, so something like PAM should work just as well. Any oil that doesn't dry too fast and that doens't run too much should work fine. You dont' need the release agent if you buy a kit, because it comes in it.
If you decide to use off-the-shelf epoxies, let us know and we can give you instructions on how to bed the rifle, or point you to a link. It's not hard at all, just requires a bit of patience and preparation, and keep in mind that it generally takes a couple days for everything to be bedded and cured up.
BTW, JB Weld is available at Lowe's hardware for about $3.50, I'd get two packages just in case (but one is usually enough, at least if it's just the barrel channel that you're bedding.) But in all honesty, once you get the epoxy, release agent, modelling clay and sandpaper, you're going to be pretty close to the cost of a bedding kit, so you may just want to go that route. Everything you need will be in the kit, except for the modelling clay (it's not totally necessary, but trust me, you should use it. It'll save you a lot of potential headaches.
One more thing: If you end up bedding your rifle and accidentally epoxy the barrel to the stock, put it in the freezer. This usually shrinks the bedding just enought for you to pop the barrel out.
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10/22

Your not talking about bedding the barrel are you??? You only want to bed the action and maybe 2 inches of the barrel. The rest of the barrel should be floating (not touching stock).
I've bedded the barrel on every rifle I've ever had, but the barrel was still freefloating. I learned this method from a gunsmith.
To bed the barrel but still have it free floating, you wrap two layers of electrical tape all the way around it before bedding. Once the barrel channel is bedded, you take the tape off and you still have a free-floating barrel.
This method accomplishes a few things: First, it stiffens the forearm of the stock, which is especially helpful with synthetic stocks as they tend to be a bit soft in forearm (like the Ramline stocks, which are almost hollow in the forearm.) Second, it helps seal up the wood in the barrel channel if you're using a wood stock (this is important for laminated stocks especially, since the laminations can come apart if they get too soaked in water, although that applies more to hunting rifles that are more prone to be outside in the field.) And by stiffening the barrel channel in a wood stock, it cuts down on the chances of the stock warping and pulling the barrel in a certain direction, and out of zero. Finally, while the barrel is still freefloated, it minimizes the amount of room the barrel has to flex in the event that some undue pressure gets put on the barrel, which can damage or destroy a reciever (especially aluminum ones.) By removing the electrical tape, you've got just enough room to slide a business card under the barrel, but you'll have the extra support just in case the barrel get stressed by things like someone accidentally stepping on the barrel, the gun gets run over by a car (this happens more than you'd think, especially when coming in from a day of hunting), or you're carrying the rifle the wrong way and whack the barrel into a wall or doorway or something. And if the stock warps, and the barrel is touching the bedding material to begin with, it will pull the barrel out of alignment.
I was trying to make a reference to bedding in general, and not one specific part. The only time I mentioned the barrel (which I admit that I probably should have specified anything that gets bedded) was in reference to the unfortunate event of having a piece of the gun stuck in the stock. My main point of my previous post was about epoxies and other bedding materials, and I didn't give any instructions, because I assumed that he either had bedding instructions already, figured it out on his own, or would come back and ask for instructions if he needed them.
I know the above may have sounded a bit snippy, and I sincerely apologise. I have a nasty flu on top of the fact that I'm all NyQuill'd up and I'm having a hard time concentrating and I'm a bit jittery (which in turn causes me to come across as being in a bad mood.) Again, I'm sorry if I sounded nasty.
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No offense taken Desert Maus. I was referring to 10/22's original question about bedding the barrel. Wasn't sure he what he was trying to accomplish here. I was thinking he was going to make full contact (7 inches) with the barrel. I have read previous posting from you (Desert Maus) and they are worth reading and very informative. Hope you feel better!!
No problem, I'm actually feeling a bit better today. I got the bug from my daughter, but it took a couple days to set in. It wasn't that bad, but it did remind me to get a flu shot this year (I didn't last year and got a nasty flu 3 diffferent times within two months.) I just wish they still put alcohol in NyQuil:D, that made taking it a lot more tolerable. Oh, and the good old days (okay, I'm only 25, so it wasn't that long ago) when you could get Codiene over the counter :D . **** FDA....
Anyways, I culled a lot of my bedding info from George Stringer, who runs Stringer Gunsmithing (a very good gunsmith, I might add, who does excellent work). I originally learned to do it that way when I got into Mausers (I've since lost my interest in sporterising milsurp rifles.) Bedding along the entire barrel channel is probably more effective in bigger hunting rifles, where the barrel weighs twice as much as the 10/22 barrels (the sporter ones, at least.) I've heard a lot of stories about people coming back from a hunt, and after loading a giant elk into a truck, they forget to pack their rifles and back over them (nobody ever seems to drive forward, for some reason...) Granted, an 8lb rifle is no match for 3 tons of Chevy, but for more common accidents like stepping on a rifle (which I've done several times while working on it on the floor), or whacking it into a doorway (I really should carry my rifle point up at all times), it can help. And with the bigger caliber hunting rifles, like 30-06 and such, it can help keep the barrel a little straighter if it starts getting hot and whipping.
But like I said, the main benefit comes from bedding synthetic stocks. The Ramline stocks have an almost completely hollow forearm, which could bend and take the barrel with it. It boils down to personal choice, and I've never not bedded (sorry, double-negative) a barrel channel, but it gives me something to do and I'm always looking for an excuse to play with my guns when I can't shoot them. I don't think it's totally necessary, and most rifles would probably survive just fine without it, but it won't hurt anything either, and can better justify getting a bedding kit if you don't often bed, because you'll be using more of it up instead of putting the leftovers on a shelf somewhere.
BTW, speaking of milsurp Mausers, that's where I got my handle (forum "identity") from. I've always been interested in WWII German Gen. Erwin Rommel, at least from a tactical point of view, and sort of combine his nickname of "Desert Fox" with "Mauser".
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Hey guys, in many cases, "bedding" the barrel IS a good technique to use. By that I mean the common practice of bedding the first 1.5"- 2" of barrel forward of the receiver (or in the case of the 10/22, the v-block), leaving the rest free floated. This helps to center the action. Also, sometimes a pressure pad at the end of the forend exerting about 8-10 lbs. of upward pressure on the barrel improves accuracy for some rifles. You can experiment with this by adding/removing shims in various locations in the forend, then if a "sweet spot" is found, make it permanent with bedding compound.
bed the receiver ot the barrel?

It seems everybody here is bedding the receiver and the first 2-4" of barrel on their 10/22's. Just as you would any rifle. From what I have read over at rec.guns evrybody there is recommending bedding the barrel and leaving the receiver free floating. Because the thin aluminum receiver is too flimsy to support the big heavy .920" barrels without flexing. How does one freefloat the receiver (action screw seems to hold it in place) without bolting down the barrel? What about bedding the whole deal, receiver and barrel? I have never bedded a rifle before, but have done plenty of 'glass work before.
Found the refernces to bedding interesting - I am wondering what tunign I should do for my CZ452 - 2e lux and this has been referred to.

I have no knoledge of bedding and would appreciate background, hints and links
El Solo asked the same question I was thinking...that I have heard you should bed the barrel & free float the action on a 10/22 due to receiver flexing.

Most of the advice here suggests just bedding the first few in. of bbl. Would this, in combination with the action screw provide enough support to keep the action from stressing due to the weight of a heavy bbl? A pressure pad near the tip sould also fix that condition, shouldn't it?

-Otter
Otter

Interesting for the CZ most reccomedations fit the standard mould of bedding the action and floating the receiver. But rugers have differnt issues - and Australia is no longer a source of infomation on them as they were banned a couple of years ago after the Port Arthur massacre
Lee...

Make you a deal. You tell me WHY (your reasoning) you are going to bed the barrel, and I'll tell you how to do it afterwards.

Deal?

(BTW, guys, he's already got the "normal" bedding done to it)

Ron
I just bought a book on Gunsmithing **(YEAH!)**

It has a section on the ruger 10/22 and how to modify it, all out of date, etc.

Anyway, they also say to bed 4-6" of the bbl and float the reciever. They don't say why though. Just say it's supposed to be that way.
Those guys who only bed the barrel and float the receiver are taking accuracy to a certain degree and stopping there.If properly done the barrel bedding will support the weight of the barrel....not the receiver.Far as that goes one could just put a bedding pad about 1" back from the barrel channel's end and accomplish the job of supporting the barrels weight.Tell the guys over at Rec. forum to come join us shooting the email matches.It will give them a good idea of their ability and just how accurate their 10/22's are.Personally,I prefer for the receiver to be bedded also.If nothing else...if there is a space between the receiver and stock just try shimming the sides of the receiver to help reduce any vibration or movement.Or just bed the barrel and not the receiver and stop there with accuracy improvements.The very best accuracy is obtained by bedding the first 2-3" of barrel channel and the action also.
Mike
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Lee,

Check the Tips Forum - very last topic "Bedding & Accurizing" - very good method by John Picher. Best of all you can read it yourself and not have to satisfy someone's precondition as to why you're bedding the barrel. Also, listen to Pinball.

jerry
If the tape method is used on a bbl and then removed after the glass sets up, you are floating the bbl and bedding the forearm. The bbl has to be in contact with the glass for it to be bedded.

I have always got the best out of 10-22s by floating the hvy bbl and adding a pad of sorts at the tip for support and bedding the action also.

I use accra glass and the spray release agent in all cases for the first step and after it cures for 3 hrs, I trim the excess glass off the top of the forearm, remove the bbled action, recoat with Rem Oil and let set overnite. Saves me on release agent and never had one to stick.
xxring said:
If the tape method is used on a bbl and then removed after the glass sets up, you are floating the bbl and bedding the forearm. The bbl has to be in contact with the glass for it to be bedded.

I have always got the best out of 10-22s by floating the hvy bbl and adding a pad of sorts at the tip for support and bedding the action also.
I always thought those who use tape left an inch or two at the end of the forearm uncovered so that the bedding does contact the barrel at the end (making a pressure point that conformed perfectly).
I've read one article about bedding this way (with tape) because the forearm in that particular rifle flexed too much and the author filled the barrel channel with the bedding to help stiffen it. The tape just saved him time from having to sand it back out and it gave it a nice uniform look.
You're right, Fumbler. In fact, that's a good way to bed the first 2 or 3 or however many inches of the barrel in front of the action, fill in the forend, and float the barrel (and, add a pressure pad as you suggest) all at the same time. Thanks!

jerry
here's my take

I will bed the barrel to the balance point. Because (for you Antlurz) bedding the barrel will limit the amount of different factors that affect resulting accuracy. I have not done a 10/22 yet but I am in the process of pillar bedding a Hogue stock and then I will be Arcaglass bedding after that. I feel that if you can get the stock and the barrel to act as one piece, you will be able to make that ragged hole that we are looking for. I will be submitting pictures of my process for all your advice, pro and con. Hopefully, you guys will finally respond to some of my posts.
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