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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to pull the trigger and send away my factory barrel to have it accurized. I'm concerned, though, about what will happen when I slap it back into my '70s production 10/22 carbine with a metal barrel band. Does this destroy accuracy? Or will it still shoot well?

As part of my accuracy project, I'm getting a new trigger, and probably a rimfire technologies tunable bedding kit, if I don't just bed it myself. I have an original walnut stock.

Thanks,

-John
 

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You can leave the band on the rifle and still free float the barrel. Ive done it to a few over the years. You just sand out the top part of the band so it doesnt touch the barrel, as long as the little corners on each side still touch the stock on the top next to the barrel channel the band will clamp to the stock good and tight and leave the barrel free from the band.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Varies with the rig. Obviously, you can't free float unless you get the band rigged to be free of the stock. Many of mine shoot better with a forward barrel pad.
Passinby;

What do you use for a barrel pad? How do you do this? Can you point me to a thread that describes this? I'd like to keep the original stock, if at all possible. What are the options if it just won't shoot with the barrel band? Just take it off and put in a sling swivel in the wood?

Thanks,

-John
 

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Many carbines shoot BETTER with the band. Do not assume it is a bad thing. If you do remove it it is usually best to have some kind of barrel pad.

The 10/22 is not designed to be free floated with out some kind on secondary hold down on the action. A pad of inner tube, mouse pad, glass bedding (what I do) or even business cards will work.

With a very light barrel you may be okay but any heavy barrel is going to need some kind of barrel support or an action hold down.
 

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Passinby;

What do you use for a barrel pad? How do you do this? Can you point me to a thread that describes this? I'd like to keep the original stock, if at all possible. What are the options if it just won't shoot with the barrel band? Just take it off and put in a sling swivel in the wood?

Thanks,

-John
I've used all kinds of materials for channel pads. Pieces of inner tube, rubber mouse pads, thick emery boards (all cut to shape). Currently I'm using those little stick-on furniture protector pads. I'll move them around and then stick them in place when I find a "sweet" spot. Sometimes I use them just forward of the v-block to float the barrel.
 

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And just to add to the confusion ;) - put a GM sporter on my SIL's 10/22. Put a pad under it and it came right to it's milk. I decided it would look better to have the band back on it. Relieved everything - put it back on - range tested it - groups flew all to hell.

Checked it again for relief - tried tightening the band, loosening the band, removing the band. There's no comparison. It shoots better sans the band.

Don't ask me... :confused: I just know the band is in the "parts" pile as we speak. ;)
 

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In the craft dept at Walmart you will find a self-adhesive hi-density foam in sheets approx. 8"x8"..this stuff is fantastic for pads :bthumb:
 

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Having listened to a bunch of experts at the club that strongly advocate floating the barrel, we took the strap off my buddy's International 10/22, and floated the barrel. It was much worse. We put the band back on and the groups tightened back up. There was a lot of shaking of heads. I certainly can't explain it other than perhaps it dampens the harmonics.
 

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yea, with the bbl band it is a crap shoot.

some work some dont. a while ago had two stockers and one shot better
with the band on. the other shot better without the band,

it's hard to float the bbl on the 10/22 and get them to shoot well without
some kind of support such as bedding near the front of the rcvr, or somewhere along the bbl channel near the front, or a pillar under the rcvr, usually where
the TD screw goes,

Rico....








 

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Having listened to a bunch of experts at the club that strongly advocate floating the barrel, we took the strap off my buddy's International 10/22, and floated the barrel. It was much worse. We put the band back on and the groups tightened back up. There was a lot of shaking of heads. I certainly can't explain it other than perhaps it dampens the harmonics.
Bill Ruger and his engineers probably knew SOMETHING:eek: :D The rifle WAS designed to use the band.

I was recently given a very nice old Mossberg 146B(a) and guess what? It has a discrete little barrel band that goes inside the stock and is supposed to be used to tune the rifle.

"Range Experts" look at the Rem 700 and Savage 110 and other center fires with TWO or even THREE action screws and they this this little Ruger is supposed to act like them. Well it only has ONE action screw and unless you add another the barrel is likely going to need some kind of support. Even the sporter weight Mod 700 Rem comes from the factory with a stock that has a barrel support right out at the end.
 

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Ole Vincent i have a question for you..if you dont mind sir. I have a 10/22T that i floated the barrel on and i'm waiting for my bedding kit to come in( which by the way i have never done) and i was wondering even if i bed the action do i still need something on under the barrel? b\c i sanded my butt of trying to get that rased lip on the end the stock so it wouldnt touch the barrel!
 

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yea, with the bbl band it is a crap shoot.

some work some dont. a while ago had two stockers and one shot better
with the band on. the other shot better without the band,

it's hard to float the bbl on the 10/22 and get them to shoot well without
some kind of support such as bedding near the front of the rcvr, or somewhere along the bbl channel near the front, or a pillar under the rcvr, usually where
the TD screw goes,

Rico....
Is there anything that would help indicate which ones would be likely to work better? I.E. year, or ?
 
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