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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was (& still am) so impressed with Graybeard's PVC pipe, lead shot & RTV barrel tuners I decided to try one of my own design. Made this one from 1 1/2" dia. brass rod. It weighs in at about 10 oz. & adjusts thru about a 1/2" range. Seems to work quite well; not as quick to adjust as Jim's (or a Hoehne) but it is prettier!
 

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Guys,
The tuner works by changing barrel harmonics/frequency.Barrels vibrate when shot.The action of a bullet going down the tube can be electronically observed with an oscilloscope.The barrel vibrations form a sine wave on the o-scope.Optimum accuracy with a "PARTICULAR" brand of ammo can be maximized by moving the tuner in small increments along the barrel to find the most accurate setting.The tuner helps dampen the vibrations and is a good device to find the sweet spot for the ammo being tested.On the o-scope the bullet is needed to "EXIT" the barrel at either a peak or valley for best accuracy.These two points are where there is the least amount of vibration/deflection to aid the bullets accuracy.As I wrote many moons ago,"You tune a guitar,you tune a car and you can tune a rifle."Sorry for the long post!:D Nice job claybuster!!:D :D
 

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In The Old Days......

Before barrel tuners were developed, thick magnetic tape was often used. It was put around the the barrel and trimmed until it was right. Guess it worked OK, but didn't look too good though...... Later.
 

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so, now I've thought about it, you guys are killing me with information. (this is good) What is the requirement for the tuner? a specific weight?

does someone have a link for do it yourself tuners? this may be something that I can mess with while I'm bored at work.

thanks..
 

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Way to go Claybuster. I love it when folks make their own stuff and constantly tinker to achieve greater accuracy instead of simply packing the rifle up and sending it to a gunsmith. Can't wait to see what your innovative skills come up with next. Nice job.
Mad`
 

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Slingshot
The total weight is app. 8 oz. I weighed the pvc and clamp and added enough lead shot to get to 8 oz. The inside of the drum is filled with silcone, and the shot was added with the drum about 1/2 full. I clamped the core pipe to a pice of wood with alum. foil under the core and drum. I let the top seal and turned it over and finished filling the bottom. I don't think the middle af the silicone ever sealed. The drum when dry will have some movement.
I used it in the on-line matches, 25yd,50 yd and BAB.
I see no reason a shim,say a coke can cut in strips , would not work OK.
graybeard
 

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Gee! More Equipment!

Any chance of building a combination Oscillascope and Chronometer so you can cut down on the crowding/setup time/ and number of personell needed to get one rifle to shoot more accurately. While you are at it stick everything onto a golfcart with a good stable wheelbase so all you have to do is insert the rifle, bolt on the tuner, adjust the scope, hook up the leads to the O-scope and Chrono and maybe a small weather station capable of giving readouts of downrange wind velocity and direction and perhaps reletive humidity and mean elevation above sealevel.
Chuck all this raw data into a laptop program and maybe yoy can get some printed directions where you should adjust the sights, tune the tuner. It might also be helpful to include an addon instruction in the printout to load the rifle and take off the safety.
After all this... One question... are the targets any better???
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :p :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think Jim's PVC tuner weighs in at about 8 oz. My brass one goes about 10. They both function the same as Hoehne's $160 one, or Browning's centerfire B.O.S.S., for that matter. Just a weight at the end of the barrel that is adjustable laterally. The effect from a pretty slight adjustment (.050" or so) is pretty significant.

If I make another one I'll probably turn the brass rod down from 1 1/2" dia to about 1 1/4" & reduce the weight a little. I was trying to be sure & leave enough wall thickness for the set screws. My barrel is .870" dia. so 1 1/4" would leave about 3/16" walls. Should look a little better that way. Could always make it longer to keep the weight up if necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Slingshot, I'd guess 5 oz. would be effective, especially if most of the weight was out past the muzzle, as mine is. Jim's weighs about 8 oz. but the way he mounts his the bulk of the weight is back a couple of inches & I can testify that his works extremely well. I'd think that 5 oz. past the muzzle would have as much effect as his 8 oz. back 2-3 inches does. Go for it!
 

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Imaginings....

Ok... Here's my idea for one... a very thin threaded sleeve, threaded to some really fine thread, say x40? Whatever the OD of the material winds up being. Threading the ID of a piece of brass, lets say that has a 1/16" wall thickness to match. Place index marks on the brass, and several reference holes drilled into the sleeve to make sure you aren't locking it a couple degrees off..... The original sleeve, that is threaded on the OD, have it clamp to the barrel with an O ring and a couple set screws that pinch on the O ring. (needless to say, a larger diameter there is necessary) Use a small boring bar to cut the O ring recess.

I It could be a smaller unit overall, and be machined for many different barrel diameters.
Lemme know what you think!

(p.s. Antlurz, Graphic's help please!)

Sincerely,
GAU-2
 
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