Rim-fire ammo is bought in boxes of fifty cartridges, usually these can be bought in small cases called "bricks" of 10 boxes for a discount...Perfect for after you find the 'right' ammunition. The best part is the best 22LR ammunitions on earth are just over 10$US for a box. Your fine rifle should not have any issue with finding a load to produce good groups sufficient for vermin extermination. Breaking in is really an procedure for guns that need it, like semi-auto's with many sliding moving parts or bolt actions that don't cycle smoothly enough. A good bolt action when broken in and properly lubed should operate like a light switch, click the bolt handle back and closed cleanly. Before the first shot is fired out of any new gun the barrel may need excess oil removed, which brings up barrel cleaning. It should be done from the breach with a solid rod and with a guide if one is available. A cleaning jag on the tip of the rod pushes a patch that tightly fits through the bore where it falls off at the muzzle end, a tight patch fit allows you to feel any hard fouling in the barrel. Next preferred method is a pull through device like a bore snake, or homemade device such as weed-eater line with a ball melted on one end and point on the other end, poke the line through a patch feed it to the ball then feed the line through the barrel and pull the patch through. I've found that a cleaning jag will do far better at breaking a lead fouled spot loose than the pull through methods (unlikely situation with good ammo and no rapid fire.) Lastly zeroing I have to recommend 65 yards for a field gun, many ranges won't have a target at that distance, so sight it in .9" high at fifty yards with a "scope" This will produce a trajectory with a peak at 1.1" high at 40 yards, 5.5" low at 100 yards. That's somewhat relative, and listed for subsonic target ammunition (very quiet combined with a suppressor.)