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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I recently purchased a new in the box Ruger 10/22 and I'm looking forward to doing an Ultimate conversion on it. I have some basic questions.

Barrel Length: What is the best all around length for target shooting and long range plinking? But I also want to be able to backpack with it.

All the tid bits I keep hearning about, extractors, Bolts, polishing, etc. Are these needed, what is the improvement over stock? The extended magazine release is totally undertandable.

Building. I'm a total novice. Can I put together at least the barrel and stock without trouble?

Scpoe rails, where do I purchase a good scope rail for the gun?

Thanks for answering my questions, great site and I look forward to finishing my project.

Thanks,
T
 

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Hello and Welcome.

You will get all kinds of replies here, reflecting the experience and preferences of the group. In the end, you will want to decide what seems best for you. Honestly, I think whatever you do you will be happy with.

Lots of people are pretty happy with the rifle right out of the box. Most will do at least a few tweaks, because they are easy and fairly cheap. Others pull out the stops.

If you are even sorta handy you can do everything yourself. The 10/22 is pretty simple. You will be a pro in a short time, don't worry about it at all.

I suggest you spend some time looking at the gallery, the 'stickies' in each forum and the tips and tricks. This will teach you a LOT.

Take a look at the manual for your rifle and the pictures of the internals. Look around inside before you take it apart. Just go slow and you will have the hang of it in minutes. The barrel is easy too, though intimidating only at first. The scope base screws right on.

If you want a rifle to carry with you, hunt and plink, then weight is probably a consideration. Short barrels, maybe carbon or aluminum, save weight. Hogue stocks are light and rugged, but, not fancy looking.

I would plan to do at least a few of the internal improvements, just because they make a big difference in shooting satisfaction. Hammer, bolt buffer, maybe the mag release and bolt release. From there you can tweak further, depending on how your desires evolve.

Welcome again.
 

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And I forgot to mention the supporters here. They are great, offering good prices and products. Some are large and some are small. They are all very reliable and you will enjoy their service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies!

I have been looking in the Ultimates forum for about 3 weeks now and I've planned out the parts that I think I would like.

Houge Overmold stock, for .920 barrel (for wieght as you stated) -or-
Revival 'Tundra' Stock ( I like the way this looks)
18" or 20" barrel, currently I have my eye on a Clerke smooth SS 20"

The other parts are the ones i'm really confused about, how does a bolt buffer, extractor, and trigger help my shooting experience. If I hazard a guess I would say:

Bolt buffer = softer recoil?
Extractor = less chance of a casing getting stuck in the action?
Trigger = lighter pull?

These I can always do later as I get used to the gun, correct? are the stock and barrel 'plug and play' with the out of box 10/22? No extra parts needed?
 

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TFW said:
Thanks for the replies!

I have been looking in the Ultimates forum for about 3 weeks now and I've planned out the parts that I think I would like.

Houge Overmold stock, for .920 barrel (for wieght as you stated) -or-
Revival 'Tundra' Stock ( I like the way this looks)
18" or 20" barrel, currently I have my eye on a Clerke smooth SS 20"

The other parts are the ones i'm really confused about, how does a bolt buffer, extractor, and trigger help my shooting experience. If I hazard a guess I would say:

Bolt buffer = softer recoil?
Extractor = less chance of a casing getting stuck in the action?
Trigger = lighter pull?

These I can always do later as I get used to the gun, correct? are the stock and barrel 'plug and play' with the out of box 10/22? No extra parts needed?
Sounds like a good start. I have a couple thoughts:

A lot of people like the Hogue and/or Tundra for mixed use. Hogue is lighter.

A 20" .920" barrel is going to be pretty heavy. If you like steel, I would think shorter, like 18 or better yet 16", flutted. I have a 16" whistle pig, and it is lighter yet.

The bolt buffer (gotta be Weaponkraft) is the best under $10 part you will ever purchase. The CLACK goes away. Less vibration on a scope. Don't even hesitate on this one. I honest to God cannot understand why Ruger used a steel pin in there. It just doesn't seem right.

Trigger. Yes, lighter pull. Instead of the 90 or 100 pound pull from the factory, you can get a reasonable 3 or so, give or take, up or down. If you are carrying/hunting, maybe lean toward a high side number for safety, not something like under a 1 pound, you know?

Extractor= Can probably wait for your experience before you decide. Some barrels extract better than others. I replaced mine because I like reliability, it was cheap, and my barrel has the tighter Bentz chamber. Note what your desired barrel has for a chamber as well. The Sporting chamber is probably better for walking around and shooting whatever you feed it. The Bentz should improve accuracy.

Weaponkraft has a neat little package that lets you get all the basic improvements at one time. Other providers can get you there too.

Let's see what some others say.
 

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TFW - :Welcome: to RFC. I think ya go'n to like it here. ;)

Ozob has got it right,lots of good advice. :t :t


Take it slow and enjoy.
 

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hey! n00b here, too! :D

one thing several guys have also recommended is the volquartsen target hammer for more reliable strikes (i guess it's a heavier hammer).

tactical solution's has bull barrels made from anodized aluminum with a steel barrel liner. from several accounts these are reliable, lightweight but rugged, and impervious to the elements. i'm sold and will be getting them for my 10/22 and mk2 pistol.

another "must-have" is the "auto bolt release". from everything i've seen in catalogs and from the instructional here, this is a no-brainer that ruger should have done right off the bat.

good luck and welcome aboard!
 

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I'm basically a newbie also. The first thing I did after I got mine at a gun show was take it all apart and clean it. There were instructions somewhere on here that made it real simple (for a guy like me, that's saying a lot).

I'm getting ready to do my upgrade finally as well and am still debating on the ordering of parts.

Should you upgrade the stock and barrel first? Then worry about other items in the receiver? Having stock parts hooked up with the nice barrel won't have any adverse physical impact on it, will it?
 

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TFW said:
Barrel Length: What is the best all around length for target shooting and long range plinking? But I also want to be able to backpack with it.
I would suggest that to fill the role you have mentioned (Target and backpacking) that a 16.5" fluted bull barrel like the ones Green Mountain makes would be a great choice. Reason why I say that is I prefer a solid one piece barrel as opposed to the composite barrels (steel liners with a aluminum or carbon fiber sleeve) and the 16.5" fluted bull weighs very close to the same as the factory carbine barrel which will keep the weight down and also give a shorter barrel for easier toting.

TFW said:
All the tid bits I keep hearning about, extractors, Bolts, polishing, etc. Are these needed, what is the improvement over stock? The extended magazine release is totally undertandable.
I haven't needed to use an aftermarket extractor on any of the 10/22s I've built so unless you have an extraction problem I wouldn't bother, plus chances are the problem won't be the extractor. Bolt reworking is a good thing to do. Chamfering the back of the bolt is something you can do yourself. Headspacing and pinning the firing pin is a good change too and if its something you can't do Randy at CPC or xxring at Martin Custom can do a fine job on it. Add a bolt buffer, Weaponkraft or the TEN22 inovations from Hawktech both work great and cost $6.00. You can then drill the mag release to fit the old bolt stop pin and glue it into the release and make your own extended release.

TFW said:
Scpoe rails, where do I purchase a good scope rail for the gun?
Scope mounting is something I believe should be done right and not skimped on. If you use a low cost scope (I do 9 out of 10 times) it will survive a lot better in good solid scope mounts. As to which mount the type of scope is a big factor. Rings too depend on the scope used. Since you want to be able to backpack it and still shoot targets with it take a look at the Simmons 22MAG scopes. They have a 3X9X32 with target knobs and an adjustable objective that will work well and also fit the hunting role. Its size isn't very large so it would be easier to pack. If you don't mind spending a little more I would use the Weigand Custom mount that has a one piece base, less to come loose! If not a Weaver T-09 or simular rail will work fine, just make sure you use locktite on the mounting screws. For rings on a Weaver mount I like Burris Signature Zee rings, they are solid and won't tweak the scope if the mount isn't perfectly straight, plus if there is an alignment problem with the mount they have offset inserts to correct alignment issues.

Hope that all helps.

Dave Z.
 
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