[gmcfixer]

Well I don't know about the seconds, mine have all been new factory barrels. Well I do have one that recieved the wrong finish which got me a discount, but to call it a second wouldn't be fair. Mine haven't been rough as you described. Keep in mind that yes some barrels won't be perfect but to change cutters after each barrel and chamber reamers after each one is about the only way to get one after the other perfect and free of markings short of hand polishing every darn thing, but of course then the cost of the barrel would go up dramatically!

If you want a near perfect barrel go get a Lilja for just over three hundred bucks and check it out too, you'll most likely find less markings from the machining, but I'll also bet you find some on the Lilja too.

Dave Z.

 

[13097]

Well I don't know about the seconds, mine have all been new factory barrels. Well I do have one that recieved the wrong finish which got me a discount, but to call it a second wouldn't be fair. Mine haven't been rough as you described. Keep in mind that yes some barrels won't be perfect but to change cutters after each barrel and chamber reamers after each one is about the only way to get one after the other perfect and free of markings short of hand polishing every darn thing, but of course then the cost of the barrel would go up dramatically!

If you want a near perfect barrel go get a Lilja for just over three hundred bucks and check it out too, you'll most likely find less markings from the machining, but I'll also bet you find some on the Lilja too.

Dave Z.

Thanks for the reply Dave. Considering that the GM "2nd" only cost $35 and groups so well, I'll just keep scrubbing I guess....LOL

(I wonder if firing a dozen or so rounds with polishing compound smeared on the bullet would speed up the "self polishing"?!?)

Dennis

 

[RWAL]

I am also in the process of breaking in a fifty buck Boyd's powder coated barrel. It had paint in the muzzel which shot out pretty fast. It is going to be a good shooter. The chamber is rough and will need 500+rounds to break in. I know GM had something to do with these barrels but not everything. I have never seen a 11 degree crown on a GM 10-22 barrel. Anyway whoever made them they are an awfully good barrel for what they cost. I figure the powder coat will make a good primer coat if I want to sand it and make myself a colored barrel.

 

[wmrimfire22]

Thanks for the reply Dave. Considering that the GM "2nd" only cost $35 and groups so well, I'll just keep scrubbing I guess....LOL

(I wonder if firing a dozen or so rounds with polishing compound smeared on the bullet would speed up the "self polishing"?!?)

Dennis

Bucks Owin,

I wouldn't bother doing ANY polishing job. If your barrels giving you good groups then doing a polishing job is just a waste of effort. Just keep shooting and it'll polish itself. Also when you clean your barrel I believe you not giving the solvent time to work on the fouling. When I do such a chore I pull three wet patches through the bore and let it sit for about 15-30 minutes before giving it one more wet patch and dry ones.

wmrimfire,22

 

[21832]

Where did you find GM "2nds"???

 

[13097]

Bucks Owin,

I wouldn't bother doing ANY polishing job. If your barrels giving you good groups then doing a polishing job is just a waste of effort. Just keep shooting and it'll polish itself. Also when you clean your barrel I believe you not giving the solvent time to work on the fouling. When I do such a chore I pull three wet patches through the bore and let it sit for about 15-30 minutes before giving it one more wet patch and dry ones.

wmrimfire,22

Fouling isn't my problem, (powder fouling at least) LEADING is the problem. I'm using good ol' "parfume de la Hoppes #9" (because I've got a lot of it and I've used it for 35 yrs with good results even if I have to let it soak overnight like when I want to get the green copper fouling out of my centerfire rifles) I'm talking TIGHT patches 30 or 40 times and still not getting the lead out of the rough spots in the GM tube. But like you said, it shoots great so I'll just put up with it........

Thanks,

Dennis

 

[13097]

Anyway whoever made them they are an awfully good barrel for what they cost. I figure the powder coat will make a good primer coat if I want to sand it and make myself a colored barrel.

Amen on the value!!! Mine had a blemish at the "warning" area and I ended up taking off the "powdercoat" (came off awfully easy!?!) with a flap wheel and die grinder. Then I gave it a sandblast with glass/oxide and put a half dozen coats of clear on it. Looks pretty good, just like "French Gray" IMHO...

Dennis

 

[RX7-2nr]

Where did you find GM "2nds"???

yeah- where do people find these barrels?

 

[Fan of 22s]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Orgnoi1
Where did you find GM "2nds"???

yeah- where do people find these barrels?

I bought 2 of the $55 powdercoated barrels from Boyd's a few months ago. They were out of the $35 ones at the time. Last I heard they may be out of them. Would be worth a call, if you are interested. Mine are GREAT!

 

[wmrimfire22]

Fouling isn't my problem, (powder fouling at least) LEADING is the problem. I'm using good ol' "parfume de la Hoppes #9" (because I've got a lot of it and I've used it for 35 yrs with good results even if I have to let it soak overnight like when I want to get the green copper fouling out of my centerfire rifles) I'm talking TIGHT patches 30 or 40 times and still not getting the lead out of the rough spots in the GM tube. But like you said, it shoots great so I'll just put up with it........

Thanks,

Dennis

Dennis,

I'm so surprised how much leading your getting out of that bore! I really now wonder just how rough your bore is? Even for a seconds from Green Mountain that's unusual. Have you considered calling them? Could it be that you barrel MAY be a seconds BUT made it past the last stage of the finishing process. I can only imagine in my mind what it looks like. It might be comparable to my Charter Arms AR-7 survival ifle. Now that bores rough!!! Anyway regardless the most important in the crown. You have a good solvent I use Hoppe's some of the time. It all depends on which bottle is grabbed. Right now I'm using "Break-Free's" bore cleaner. It appears to be pretty darn good stuff not too caustic smelling. Usually I use MP-Pro7 as it has not smell what so ever.

wmrimfire,22

 

[Aitch Dog]

Rough Bore

FWIW, I noticed that the latest Midway flyer has a .22 cal. bore lapping kit from Tubb, which uses lapping compound in progressively finer grits to polish the bore. I don't know whether that would be better than the elbow grease/jeweler's rouge method of yours or not especially in view of the accuracy of the barrel.
Being the lazy person that I am, if I decide I have such a problem, I would opt for the Tubb kit.
Regards , Aitch Dog

 

[13097]

Where did you find GM "2nds"???

Boyds

 

[Barr]

I ordered a Boyds 55 dollar seconds barrel this spring and have not shot a whole lot of groups with it but I have run 4 bricks of high velocity cheap .22 ammo through it. I shot a few groups with Dynapoints and Remington Target and the Dynapoints outdid it everytime. Best group I have had so far is a .5 inch at 50 yards. Once I get the VG Hammer the groups will tighten up significantly. I have been nothing but impressed with the GM Boyds barrel.

 

[dbuckbee]

Next time you get the urge to lap your barrel, use some JB Bore Paste. It has some abrasive in it and will do more to smooth the bore than jewelers rouge. Jewelers rouge is for polishing things like gold and silver, which are very soft, so it has a very fine abrasive in it that won't do much poilishing to steel, let alone taking out tool marks.
Shooters Choice has a lead remover they sell. It will take out the lead in a barrel. Run a patch wet with the stuff and leave it sit for 15 minutes, then clean the barrel as usual.
Don

 

[13097]

Next time you get the urge to lap your barrel, use some JB Bore Paste. It has some abrasive in it and will do more to smooth the bore than jewelers rouge. Jewelers rouge is for polishing things like gold and silver, which are very soft, so it has a very fine abrasive in it that won't do much poilishing to steel, let alone taking out tool marks.
Shooters Choice has a lead remover they sell. It will take out the lead in a barrel. Run a patch wet with the stuff and leave it sit for 15 minutes, then clean the barrel as usual.
Don

Thanks Don, I had thought about getting some JB paste and am gonna give it a try.....