[jGEE]

It has been a while since i visited the Ruger 10/22 section -i've been off "investigating bolt actions"..... just thought i would drop in and say hello!

I was cleaning up some of my neglected projects when i decided to try out my Running Boar project from a couple years ago. I have come across some Sk Standard Plus ammo that is shooting really nice in my bolt guns-so...

It's a Green Mountain bbl straight out of the box, an E-gun parts Walnut stock, homemade trigger job from here @ RFC and several hours of fun!

One of these bbls are light weight and would be perfect for minute of squirrel!

http://www.gmriflebarrel.com/catalog.aspx?catid=runningboarweightedmuzzlestylebarrel

I did add a second bedding screw from the rear to hold the action solid. Just thought i would post some typical targets from this morning. Off the bench 5 shot groups @ 50 yards.

Actually i was suprised this is about what my Rem 40X and Rem '37 bolt guns do. It's been a couple years since i shot my Rugers, maybe i better drag them back out and 'tune 'em up a bit! have fun joe

 

[jGEE]

Joe,

That's a nice job on the second hold screw! What did you use as your pillar? Looks like a modded brass fitting, but I like the tapered look!

Oh - great groups!

I think had posted this back when i did it, maybe last year -but here it is again! joe

 

[jGEE]

Joe..

That's a nice method of nailing down the back, Looks like I will be tinkering again.
Are you using a front presser pad in front of the action?
Or is it totally free floated now?
Did you notice a big difference in accuracy after you did the mod, compared to the standard pressure pad?

I think that's the cleanest way to nail it down so far that I have seen or thought about.

Thanks for the nice compliment.
The bbl is totally free floated now. I really don't like the idea of a pressure pad, i read they work fine- but just seem a bit unreliable to me for over the long haul.

It took a while for me to realize the 10/22 really has two hold down points - the takedown screw and the rear of the trigger guard hooks into the back of the stock. As the wood shrinks or the trigger housing pins get a bit of slack your action/bbl can move from shot to shot.

I think the reason for the pressure pad on the bbl actually is there to put pressure on the back of the stock where the trigger housing hooks around the stock. The pressure pad sorta preloads the trigger guard/housing with the stock.

I added the rear take down screw for a more permanent "lock" to keep the action and bbl in one place and not have to depend on a pressure pad so "preload" the entire assembly.

I can't say how much this mod improves accuracy - ithink it would depend how nice your action is "locked" in your stock. I do think over the long haul your rifle will be more consistent and maybe stop a few gremlins from poping up in the future.

If you don't have a lathe here is an assortment i picked up at Lowes to make a rear pillar from. The first couple of my Rugers i done -got the rear pillar and i used a regular Ruger brass take down estanchion for an insert.

My last Ruger i snapped how to make a nice clean piece for a clean install. I personally would not shoot a Ruger for accuracy without some kind of second take down screw.

It would be a fun little project, and when your drilling the wood you don't have to be exact, everything needs to be a bit oversize for the epoxy! joe

 

[jGEE]

Joe,

That is a real nice way to tie things together. Just a couple of questions,
what is the gizmo you are using as a bit guide in pic. #2 ???? And is the rear of the reciever a drilled & tapped breach cleaning hole ????

Like I said, REAL NICE,:bthumb::bthumb:

Rick

Thank you for the compliment! I wanted something simple for a second hold down screw. After i install the second hold down i do scrape out a little wood around the back of the action and use a bit of Accru-glass to bed the action.

Pic #2 is a dremel/ flexible shaft mounted grinder from Harbor Freight. It has a small drill bit chuck that i have chucked up i think a 3/8" drill bit. In the first pic i made a cover plate for the hole in the stock out of thin aluminum -the flexible shaft grinder sets perfect for drilling center in the back of the stock. That hole in the stock matches with exact center of the action to!

I set the grinder on the thin cover plate and cut a foam backed nail file from my wife's collection in half to center the grinder. Drilled the stock and then center punched my action. Drilled and tapped the action for the second hold down screw.

I think a clean out hole in the back of the action would be a bit higher than dead center-. I use a bore guide that fits the crown to clean my 10/22's, don't clean from the back of the action.

You can buy the flexible shaft grinder from Harbor freight for $45 bucks
http://www.harborfreight.com/flexible-shaft-grinder-and-carver-40432.html
I have one with a cheepo set of diamond grinder points about 10 bucks a set off e-bay.

If you don't have one may i suggest they are a very handy tool and for $45 bucks you can't beat it!! I really like mine and use it all the time! Today i used the grinder and one of the diamond points to cut the extractor slots in the barrel of a Kimber project i'm doing. joe

 

[jGEE]

jGEE,

I think I'll do the same hold-down on my two new builds (sort of spreads that big tool investment cost over more than one rig -- )

May I ask what muzzle guide you use for cleaning your barrels? I think I'd like to go this way, as well.

Before i forget to mention you will need a step drill, the grinder chuck only goes to i think .250... (just remember next time your ordering stuff)

CLICK HERE FOR 10/22 BORE GUIDE. I used the Dewey, it has a brass bushing insert. The bore guides are made for .920 or stock bbls.

I gotta make a disclaimer here- It is best to clean from the chamber end. *BUT* i guess i'm too lazy to take my rig apart everytime and clean from the chamber end.

It is imperative you do not damage the crown or the rifling the first 1/2" in the bore while cleaning. Your pretty safe if your careful with the bore guide from the muzzle end. *ALSO* i use a coated rod... if i do touch the rifling i'd rather it be rubber and not a metal cleaning rod.

Some say don't use a coated rod because crap will embed in the coating. It is no more trouble to keep a coated rod clean than a steel rod!

I guess if i ever find that magic hummer bbl that shoots in the .100's any day of the week, i would be reluctant to clean from the muzzle -but until that day comes i will continue to use a muzzle guide on my 10/22's. joe :comeandge