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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been shooting my 10/22 (of course). It's got the Power Custom Hammer/Sear set and a Alpen Kodiak 3.5-10X scope. I've been shooting Remington Thunderbolt 22LR through it.

I've noticed two things.

First, I've been getting FTF about one shot in 15-20. This hasn't been a significant problem. Mostly I just eject the cartridge and try it again later. So far, out of something like 400 rounds, I've only had one that didn't eventually fire.

The other issue is that my groups tend to "wander." For instance, I'll shoot five sets of 5 rounds each at a separate aiming point (downloaded target). The individual groups are about 2" across (with the occasional "flyer" outside that). But each group will cluster in a different direction from its respective aiming point.

If it matters, I'm shooting standing, unsupported and using the scope. While watching the target through the scope the crosshairs seem to wander all over the area around the aiming point and I try to wait for a moment when I'm steady at the aiming point to fire.
 

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While watching the target through the scope the crosshairs seem to wander all over the area around the aiming point
Pretty much sums up the problem right there.As far as the FTF every one has them.Slow
 

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Normally I'd say, "don't feed the trolls", to a post like this, but I'm feeling generous today.

1) Remington thunderbolts are the bottom of the barrel ammo for consistancy. If you are honestly shooting for groups, try something else, almost anything else, as long it doesn't come in a bulk pack.

2) shoot from a rest.
 

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You've most likely checked this but, is the scope loose. I had the same problem, and the screws holding the base on to the reciever were coming loose. And the Remington ammo is'nt the best I had several jam on me and out of 60 one FTF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You've most likely checked this but, is the scope loose. I had the same problem, and the screws holding the base on to the reciever were coming loose. And the Remington ammo is'nt the best I had several jam on me and out of 60 one FTF.
Well, I thought I had checked that, but I'll double-check it.

I figured that the Remington Ammo "isn't the best" (cheap is usually cheap for a reason) but I didn't know if this level of "not the best" was normal for it or not.

What I found curious wasn't the overall spread of the shots. Had I been shooting at a single point of aim, I wouldn't have found anything surprising about the overall spread. What I found surprising was that each five shot group had a different position relative to its point of aim. The groups, while not "tight" in any objective sense were tight enough that the difference from group to group was significant. That's what got me curious.

I am now, however, curious as to just what Rusty Marlin found "trollish" about my post. On the one hand I'm new at this and don't have a feel yet for what's "normal." On the other, I'm a scientist in my day job with all the curiosity into the "why" of things that comes with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think I under stand what your trying to say, that level of acuracy(approx.2"groups)seems about right to me for standing. Is that what your asking? Along with the "drifting" groups.
More or less. I was also curious as to why I would be able to stay consistent within a group, but then when I shot the next group I would be just as consistent, only at a different position relative to the point of aim.

First group: correct elevation, group about 1" to left.
Second Group: correct windage, group about 1 1/2" low
Third group: spot on
Etc.

I also wanted to know if the level of failure I was getting with the Remington ammo was normal for that ammo. (And it appears the answer is "yes.")
 

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About the ammo I would say yes it is normal. Also it may not make sense but when I shoot standing in compitition type shooting I might get a fair group of about .375(good to me, hope to get alot better)in all strings, but between strings thet group shifts from one part of the target to another as in your case, but its not the gun, its ME. May not make sense but it happens(to me at least:eek: ), I thats why they give you 10 sighter shots.
 

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I am now, however, curious as to just what Rusty Marlin found "trollish" about my post. On the one hand I'm new at this and don't have a feel yet for what's "normal." On the other, I'm a scientist in my day job with all the curiosity into the "why" of things that comes with that.
A couple of reasons, but there was enough doubt for me answer your questions.

1) You could be brand new to shooting and not know any better... which is apparently the case, and welcome to the wonderful world of shooting BTW. :)

or

2) You could be an expiranced shooter that knows only too well that thunderbolts are total crap and that shooting offhand is a poor way to judge the accuracy of anything and are just trolling for responces to an imaginary problem.

I chose to assume the first option. ;)
I really and truley mean what I said, welcome. :D
 

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One more thing comes to my mind.(That's scary in it's self).Maybe it's paralax in the scope.Does it have a adjustable objective?If not at 25yds the cross hairs will be jumping all over.Off hand is tough to do with out a lot of practice.Slow
 

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I shot small bore rifle for 5 years before a coach sat me down and explained body position. In all four positions we shot the 11 bull 22lr 50’ indoor target in a left to right fashion just as they are numbered. What we were not doing is moving our body position for each shot. We would just shift the rifle or maybe the forearm. The coach was able to show us that the only time we had correct body position was when we shot the sighter bull in the middle. All the rest of the time we were leaning to the right or left. His suggestion was to set the body up for the left column, then middle column and then the right column of bulls. In offhand this stopped the drift effect. The other thing mentioned which I can identify with is parallax. Even when set to the correct distance, on some scopes there is still parallax. This is overcome by making sure your head is located in the same spot for each shot. Many have solved this by putting a piece of tape on their stock for cheek placement. Hope this helps…..RayG
 

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I aggree with the parallax, another reason that the proper ring height is important. Also thanks for the "advise" on shooting position. They teach us natural point of aim but usualy I shift position at my abdomen, and that feels comfortable, never thought that that might make me more unstable,:confused: and I thought I was smater than that.:rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 

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Your Alpen scope has no AO. Your description re off hand shooting would indicate that when you switch targets, you also reshoulder and then fire the group.

The lack of AO alone accounts for the "drift".
 

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Adjustable Objective. The objective lens is the one at the target end of your scope. The one by your eye is the ocular lens. AO means you can focus your scope for different yardages which helps lessen the effects of parallax. Most full size scopes designed for centerfire rifles are set at the factory to be parallax free at 100yds and will exhibit some parallax at 50yds or less. Full size scopes designed for rimfire use are set parallax free at 50yds. Parallax is where the crosshairs don't look at the same place unless your head is in the exact same position for every shot which is fairly hard to do.
Kim
 

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If this is your scope http://www.nightvisionplanet.com/Alpen_Kodiak_Rifle_Scope_3_5_10x50_wide_angle_m_p/alpen-2060.htm I just checked and your scope is set for 100yds so it should exhibit some parallax at 50yds.
Kim
Magnification: 3.5-10x
Objective Lens Diameter (mm) 50
Tube Diameter (in) 1
Exit Pupil (mm) Low / High 13.5 / 4.9
F.O.V. (ft @ 1000 yds) Low/High 35 / 12
Eye Relief (in) 3.0
Lens Coating Multi-Coated
Net Weight (oz.) 21
Focus System Fast Focus
Parallax Setting (yds) 100
W/E Adjust Click Value 1/4" @100 yds
Finish Matte Black
Mounting Length (in) 6.0
Total Length (in) 13.2
Warranty: Lifetime
 
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