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Is there any great advantage to freefloating a 452 Varmint?
Is this done all the way to the barrel lug? and/or from the action to the barrel lug as well? How much should be taken out? I saw some comment to a business card.
What sort of results have you had?
I am still waiting for the screws I ordered from Brooks, and may take a closer look then.
 

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Is there any great advantage to freefloating a 452 Varmint?
Is this done all the way to the barrel lug? and/or from the action to the barrel lug as well? How much should be taken out? I saw some comment to a business card.
What sort of results have you had?
I am still waiting for the screws I ordered from Brooks, and may take a closer look then.
How does it shoot for you now? If it is fine you may just want to wait and see how it does over time. I'm in an area where humidity can be an issue, so I have free-floated all of mine. One was to correct an accuracy problem and the other 2 more of a preventative measure. I usually free-float where I can pass 2 business cards between the barrel and stock from the muzzle to the barrel lug (on the varmint) and bed from the action forward to the lug.

Brent
 

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I would suggest you PM Recumbent and ask for tips. He guided me through accurizing my 452 Varmint. Now it's amazing. Drummer
Maybe Recumbent could post his accurizing tips. I have a 452 Varmint also and would be interested in knowing how it can be improved. The only mod I've done is the Brooks trigger kit.
 

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In all of the four CZ's my son and I own, each was very acceptable for hunting accuracy just as they came from the box. However, each was also capable of much more impressive grouping once the receivers were bedded, barrel channels were opened up, and trigger springs changed for lighter ones. An example is my newly acquired American that is now capable of 5 shot groups with Ely Club that is one ragged hole at 25 yards. Its not that it wasn't capable of good groups before tuning, its now more consistent in its grouping.
FWIW, I'd bed and float.
Good luck.
 

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Maybe Recumbent could post his accurizing tips. I have a 452 Varmint also and would be interested in knowing how it can be improved. The only mod I've done is the Brooks trigger kit.
I'll write them up again and save them and get them posted this evening or tomorrow.
 

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If your going to remove material from the barrel channel then it's worth allowing for a clearence that is a cleaning rag thickness .Once done the last thing you want to be doing once you've created your tack driver is taking the action out the stock for maintenance .;)
 

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If your going to remove material from the barrel channel then it's worth allowing for a clearence that is a cleaning rag thickness .Once done the last thing you want to be doing once you've created your tack driver is taking the action out the stock for maintenance .;)
That's why they make torque wrenches in inch lb settings.
 

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452 Varmint 22LR barrel floating tips.

CZ 452 Varmint 22LR accurizing tips.

Free float the barrel from the Lug forward so that a thickness of 2 business cards or 2 strips cut from a file folder will freely slide between the barrel and stock back to the barrel lug. The easiest way to accomplish this is to use deep well socket and 80 grit sand paper.

When finished, seal the wood with a finish like tung oil, polyurethane or something similar. Give it 2 or 3 coats letting dry between coats.

Next is the barrel lug. The lug slides freely in a dovetail on the bottom of the barrel.
Remove it and take it to the hardware store with you. Get a metric socket head (allen head) set screw that is short in length. We will use this to secure the lug to the barrel.

Now thread the set screw into the lug but do not tighten it yet.

Put the action and lug into the stock. Screw the action screw into the lug just a little and also finger tighten the rear action screw.

Now using the front screw center the lug in the stock hole. Remove the screw and tighten the set screw this will secure the lug in the dovetail.

Next, you do NOT want the action screw to touch the set screw in the lug.
So to check that put a drop of fingernail polish on the end of the stock/lug screw, let dry and then thread into lug and tighten. Remove the screw and look at the fingernail polish. If it touched the set screw the fingernail polish will be marred or have marks on it. If it touched you will need to grind or file 1 or 2 threads off the screw to shorten it.

I have found that my Czs shoot the best with 24 inch lbs of torque on both the front and rear action screws, yours may vary.

If you have access to a torque wrench in inch lbs when you get to the range start at about 18 in lbs and shoot some 5 shot groups and try different settings until you get to the "Sweet Spot".

Good luck and have fun!

Recumbent (Bob)
 

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If we had pics to go with Recumbent's freefloating procedure, this should be a sticky for sure! Recumbent -- curious about freefloating from the lug forward. Are you recommending sanding out the action channel to allow two business cards as well? I freefloated the barrel from where the action ends and the barrel begins (although I did not sand much where the barrell flares out first and then tapers down). Should I go back and do a little more sanding?
 

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If we had pics to go with Recumbent's freefloating procedure, this should be a sticky for sure! Recumbent -- curious about freefloating from the lug forward. Are you recommending sanding out the action channel to allow two business cards as well? I freefloated the barrel from where the action ends and the barrel begins (although I did not sand much where the barrell flares out first and then tapers down). Should I go back and do a little more sanding?
Sand out the barrel channel in the stock from the Lug forward to the front end of the stock.

Do not sand in the action (receiver) area.
 

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I'm a bit confused about the metric set-screw and the lug--do you use the same threaded hole that the action screw uses, but the action screw isn't long enough to touch the set-screw?

I think I've got it after re-reading the post--but would like confirmation.
 

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I'm a bit confused about the metric set-screw and the lug--do you use the same threaded hole that the action screw uses, but the action screw isn't long enough to touch the set-screw?

I think I've got it after re-reading the post--but would like confirmation.
yes, you use the same hole. It is threaded all the way thru, so you put the set screw in the same hole as the action screw.
 

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Seems to me that putting the set screw in there would solve my problem of dropping the lug every time I take the action out of the stock. Haven't gotten used to that loose piece yet. I'm off to the hardware store tomorrow after I get back from the range.
 

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Seems to me that putting the set screw in there would solve my problem of dropping the lug every time I take the action out of the stock. Haven't gotten used to that loose piece yet. I'm off to the hardware store tomorrow after I get back from the range.
That is an additional benefit of locking the lug to the barrel.:D
 

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The American does not have a barrel lug, but does have an action lug. If you put a set screw there, be very careful when tightening it. The metal is thinner there and is easily bent if the screw is tightened too far. :eek:

Brent
 
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