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For your curiosities on Summits

2800 Views 22 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Nav
I have two original PWS Summit actions and last spring one of there linkages failed. VQ had said they improved on it so I ordered a replacement from them and after a long waiting and some procrastination on my part I am finally doing the repair and getting to see the improvements. They really beefed it up as you can see in the picture. This particular rifle has a VQ 17hm2 barrel at the moment and is a fine shooter. I have no doubt that the new piece will give no issues. As far as the cause of the break, I have heard that PWS had some heat treating issues on some and also I bought this used and have no way to know if it was headspaced correctly before me.
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That is good to know! I also have a PWS Summit and wondered if the VQ version parts were interchangeable.

As an aside, I do know that the PWS trigger is not compatible with 10/22 actions. It's a shame, for a factory trigger it was very good.
Yup, that PWS trigger can be adjusted very very nice. My other Summit has it in it. I was able to get a Jard down to under a pound in a Summit. I went all in and bought a KiDD 2-Stage for this 17hm2 Summit. Very expensive and worth it ounce you get spoiled from other "good" 2-stage.
Head spacing these things an interesting act. I've heard it done many ways. I do it by feel and lots of assemble/unassembled. Just finished and if I recall I used 7 or so shims. Have it so it just barely overcams into battery. I'll know better ounce I live fire but that is how I have the other one. I can see the bolt rest on the barrel and it only takes low pinky pressure to finish the close. Even though it is a PWS, I decided to leave the VQ handle on. Out of respect for their upgrade. My KiDD trigger is red so maybe I'll paint fill the VQ etched in handle to match. Every one loves pics so I'll add two more just because.
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And one more of how KIDD sits in the KRG stock. It was a very snug fit with the rear tang and KIDD trigger
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Love your build. I too am doing a Summit build. I ordered a Shilen barrel but had problem with the tenon on it being a little too short and Summits bolt wouldn’t lock up enough to firmly go into battery (I used no shims at all). When I checked barrel dimensions it appears that tenon cut is a little too short, so I sent the barrel back but as yet haven’t heard back from Shilen as to whether they’ll modify mine or send out a replacement. Mine will go into an Oryx chassis that I had from another build.
Those Oryx are pretty cool how they clamp the rear of the receiver in. Always that that would be a slick way to do it.
I finally got my Summit together after waiting for the replacement barrel from Shilen. So far it’s grouping quite well with some of the new Norma match that I recently got. Haven’t had a chance to get outside to stretch it’s legs but it’s showing promise so far.
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That'll do just fine.
Fill in the VQ etch on handle with a crayon. See if you like it. Just color it in like kindergarten
I'm thinking red to match the trigger.
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I finally got my Summit together after waiting for the replacement barrel from Shilen. So far it’s grouping quite well with some of the new Norma match that I recently got. Haven’t had a chance to get outside to stretch it’s legs but it’s showing promise so far.
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Nice (y)(y) - 2 questions:

1. Were you able to seat the receiver all the way down to where it makes contact with the chassis?
I wasn’t in mine - I was up to … 35 inch/lb of torque and still not all the way down, and I even trimmed the nylon “rods” a little bit.
I didn’t have the testicular fortitude :ROFLMAO:🤦‍♂️ to go higher and moved on to other builds, so the chassis has been sitting, but I really like the way it looks…

2. Who sells this bag rider… or is it homegrown? :cool::cool::ROFLMAO:

TIA!:)
Yes mine holds tight at rear contact point, you just have to torque I’d down sufficiently. The bag rider is by jamerllc.com. They have a version for original Oryx models, and for newer ones with M-lok attachment.
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(1)Yes mine holds tight at rear contact point, you just have to torque I’d down sufficiently. (2) The bag rider is by jamerllc.com. They have a version for original Oryx models, and for newer ones with M-lok attachment.
Thanks - I'm talking about "under the action screw", mine hangs in the air above the contact point on the chassis every bit of 1/8" at 40 inch/lbs of torque.
It took a lot of testicular fortitude on my part to crank it down to that level, and the instructions actually say "60"!! - Ruger says to never exceed 30 inch/lbs, to protect the aluminum receiver thread.
The "60" imo is clearly an uncorrected carryover from other version - along with the "mixed rifle types" in the instruction's photos.

Interestingly enough the section of my 10-22 Oryx buttstock that would have (but does not) the M-LOK attachment point is aluminum - I bought that chassis after getting 1 each for CZ and Tikka, and those 2 chassis do have the M-LOK attachment point in the corresponding section of the buttstock made of plastic.

I ordered 2 of the bag riders for the CZ and the Tikka Oryx chassis - I appreciate the intel:), and apologies all around for what turned into a thread hijack:cool:
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I have had to shorten the takedown screw on some before. If I recall the VQ screws are shorter. Wasnhers work also.
Here’s a pic of what I’m talking about - you can see the nylon rods, slightly trimmed, bracketing the bottom of the receiver and seemingly not allowing it to fully seat at 35 inch/lbs…
Since I tried 4 different receivers - this here:cool: is an OEM Ruger - I got a dollar, perhaps even dollar fifty :cool: that says they are all like that and this could very well be a design feature, but most people don't know because you wouldn't be able to see it when installing a barreled receiver.

MDT should know, but they ain't talkin':cool:, at least not yet (I emailed them this photo with questions), but the first time I contacted them about it they simply said to "just crank it down to 45 inch lbs" - "we" won't be doing that before first hearing from 3-4 people who got away with it, but I also don't think it'll make any difference, since there was no movement between 30 and 35 inch/lbs.

The design feature theory :cool:is perhaps supported by the fact that the ejection port seems to be correctly lining up, or almost lining up with the top of the chassis' forend.

Still, though, you have to admit that a receiver intentionally not fully seating is somewhat... how you say :cool:... disconcerting.

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This is good to hear. I had one of the original PWS T3 rifles (before Volquartsen took over) and it was nothing but trouble. In fact, the issues I was having with it were the reason I joined this forum.
Hi. New poster.

I had a MkII in an LSS that shot lights out, but it would start misfeeding and fte by the second mag. It would feed fine again when cleaned, but then same thing again, and that’s not going to get me through an NRL match. I was on the cusp of ordering a VuDoo, but I’ve had good experiences with VQ pistols, so I gave it a go.

I ordered an all SS Summit with their SS Bull barrel (8 months wait from their custom shop) and put it in an Oryx. It needed some fitment, but came together nicely. The groups I initially shot were terrible. I cleaned the smack out of the barrel, and they improved on the second outing, but I noticed that Volquartsen cut a flat crown, and I put an 11 deg on just about anything I shoot.

What’s the feeling on their barrels, and do you think cutting a target crown will improve percision?
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I have had to shorten the takedown screw on some before. If I recall the VQ screws are shorter.
Correct. The stock action screw from Ruger is 1" long; Volquartsen action screw is 22mm (7/8") long.
I finally got my Summit together after waiting for the replacement barrel from Shilen. So far it’s grouping quite well with some of the new Norma match that I recently got. Haven’t had a chance to get outside to stretch it’s legs but it’s showing promise so far.
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Did you build the bag rider or purchase it ? Where ? Really like this build. - Weight ? Looking for 9 1/2 with scope ? Thanks
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