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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As some may know a wood stock factory rifle with a heavy "varmint floating barrel " may not be "floating all the way" directly from the factory. If it's winter and the humidity is low..........check it come summer. I bought this Savage in the spring and with the high humidity of summer she swelled. I stopped by my gun shop and he was kind enough to give it the quick once over 15 minute job at no charge but, it was still not as the free floating concept was designed to be and I am kind of fussy about these things, so I have been reading up on it. How does it hurt anything ? Well if your a bench shooter your groups stay tight but move around with the pressure spots from the wood swelling against the barrel along with the barrel heating. If a varmint hunter trying to make a 3" head shot at 150 yards.........you miss. There is some good documentation by those more experienced than I in the "match forums" of this site along with this fine article I found. http://riflestocks.tripod.com/floating.html To clarify this is fully floating and bedding. My purpose is to float the end of the barrel after the taper only.......as was intended. From there I sanded out the throat and receiver area with the larger dowel to relieve some stress on the barrel sides and have a better fit. It is still "bedded"/supported in the throat barrel chanenel and rear receiver as intended from factory. Just relieved, fit and sealed with tung oil, including the butt pad. From a engineering stand point it all made sense to me, so I dove into the simple project. I simply post this to help others interested in fine tuning there machine. This is for a wood stock Savage 93 GV but, I would think it would be similar for most wood stock floating varmint barrel rifles. Keep in mind not all were made to be free floating just because they have a varmint barrel and wood stock, so check your design first but, most are.

Freeing her up........
First get a good idea where the barrel is making contact and review the article above to become familiar with the concept. For my rifle I took of the trigger guard, bi-pod and sling. to remove the barrel there was just two assembly screws and out she came. For the Savage with a throated barrel you need two wooden 1 - 1" diameter 1- 1 1/8" the object is to be just slightly larger than the front diameter of the barrel and relieve the throat area and 1 square block. I used 150 grit sand paper but wish I had some courser paper to start. At first glance it may appear "this won't take long" as it did with me. I was wrong..........it took me a few hours to get her the way I wanted............so turn on the radio (grin). The stock on the Savage is not a bad little unit after close inspection considering the price.
Start sanding out the barrel channel with the two dowels. Heres mine when I thought I was close to done ................wrong. Also what you see was all stained.


To find out where your at, re -assemble it and hand tighten the stock screws with the allen wrench and then back off 1/16".........that's about the tork you want. Now, here's what I found at about this stage...........fiddling with it. You also want this barrel centered as best you can. One stud goes through the the tin around the magazine opening (nice acts like a washer too) but, my punch hole was tight on the screw through the tin........zero play at all. With a drill I reamed it out, before I was done I also reamed out both stock screw holes in the stock a little and worked on the trigger area of the stock too. So keep your eye's open but it's simple stuff.

Disassemble and back to sanding (grin). Now keep in mind you want about a credit card or two size gap along the stepped down portion of the barrel and a business card size gab right up the throat to the receiver and bolt along the sides only. On the Savage you will noticed it's milled out almost squared off where the larger diameter throat necks down to the smaller diameter of the barrel. Just even it out using both the large and small in that area. The throat will still "bed" there just relieve the area.You can see the stain left there in my pictures. Here, I figured I was done again .............wrong(grin).



Once back together and using business cards, credit cards, feeler gages if you want along with the dollar bill thing (grin). She still was not as free as I wanted in some spots. So now your really looking her over while she is back together. On mine it was mostly at the........ from a top view.........very end of the forearm on the right side, at the "taper" area where the diameter transitions and along the right side of the receiver area. Something tells me they are all about the same. So.................back to sanding with a little more focus and pressure on those area's. O.K. now we are getting close !



And your noticing she is going back together much smoother too ! Now take your square block and hand sand a 45 degree miter along the top edge. Not only will this look sweet (the Savage stock did not have it) but it has function and glides your barrel into place centering it.

O.K. lets have another look'sy.................got her............nice (grin) a free floating barrel as intended by design.


But, we are not done. You need to seal up the inside with some tung oil to keep the moisture out. But, not yet if it's humid out...........or you will seal that moisture in. Plus you may choose to bed the action soon. So wait like I am doing until winter or when it's been good and dry for awhile then put a couple coats of tung oil on the inside the stock will also be a tad smaller then (shrunk). which by the way may only have stain on it and not finish like the outside. Maintain with tung oil now and then as needed to help reduce swelling by keeping the moisture out.

Thanks to others who have taken the time to post stuff like this on the internet and help us tinker's out. BTW - if your wondering what all that other stuff is on my bench..........I am a flyfisherman and that is my fly tying bench.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Yea..........also to clarify (poor at writing things) and there are many grey area's in gun talk.

This is not "fully floated" as some do. The front taper of the bull barrel is fully floating now as was intended from factory but was not sanded out enough for swelling etc. From the throat or larger taper of barrel back it is still seated in the barrel grooves. I sanded that area with 1 1/8" diameter to relieve the area in particular the sides, mine was really tight all down the right side. I also used both dowells to work the and almost squared off barrel transition area of the stock. The larger barrel diameter still seat's or beds there as intended with the rest floating freely with a good 1/16" around.

The receiver area was to tight for my taste. So I releived it and fit sanded it to my likeing. Probably the most important thing besides floating the end of the barrel is sealing all inside area's and behind the butt plate with a couple coats of tung oil on a wood stock to keep the moisture out and movement to a min.

There are so many phrases in rifle tweaking that are simular I wanted to clarify. It's not fully floated front to back...........just front. I have not glass bedded it anywhere...........yet, and may not. To relieve the throat & receiver area was "my thing"..........I will let you know if my groups stay put better know.

I can say what ALL SHOULD DO with this rifle is sand out the stock where the front taper of the varmint barrel is giving 1/16" clearance to float as designed including in high humidity AND apply tung oil everywhere inside the stock (only stain there) and behind the butt pad to seal the stock from moisture and keep it still.

I like a wood stock because you can work with it and it's fairly stiff, this one is decent it really is...........I don't think any factory gun stocks are 100% fit and sealed. They don't do much hand sanding. I don't care for the cheaper plastic stocks at all and would probably replace go cutom and inlet / sand for fit. The laminates are nice.
 

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Bucktail Bill said:
huh :eek: ..........photobucket.

I see them.............hope them come on for you.

Thanks.
when posting from photobucket, the IMG tags are in the address that you copy. you can then paste it directly into your reply without having to use the IMG box here.

thats why your pics have on each side. ;)

:D

btw, thanx for the detailed post. just picked up a 9317-GV today. :D

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/nippr/DSCN1907crw.jpg

will post about it after its initial shoot tomorrow morning. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
rinardman said:
Well, Bill, now that you've done all this hard work, what are the results?

Did it take care of the problems you were having?
Ha,ha,ha...........that's the bad news, I really wasn't having any problems.......I am one of those tinker types. No really my groups were tight but starting to move around with the humidy. There was pressure on the end of my stock against the barrel. It was not floating like it should. I went ahead and sealed it with tung oil (did not wait) and did the Savage shim spring trigger job tonight..........which went well.

Tomarow morning I am going to the R & G club range, sight her back in and shoot at 100 & 200. I doubt my groups will be any tighter (my best was 5/8" at 100 for 5). I average about a inch to three quarters. It will take a few trips to see if they are moving around or not. I will keep you posted and I will be honest. To free up the end of the stock.......as it was designed to be it really wouldn't take long at all, along with sealing the inside and behind butt pad with tung oil as is highly recomended no matter what.............it's maybe 1 1/2 hours. I just took it farther inletting the front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
nipprdog said:
when posting from photobucket, the IMG tags are in the address that you copy. you can then paste it directly into your reply without having to use the IMG box here.

thats why your pics have on each side. ;)

:D

btw, thanx for the detailed post. just picked up a 9317-GV today. :D

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/nippr/DSCN1907crw.jpg

will post about it after its initial shoot tomorrow morning. ;)
Yea........! They are a nice rifle aren't they. Have fun shooting, mine liked the 20 grains best at first. Don't do anything for a couple hundred rounds but shoot it.
 

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Dittos

I spent a weekend(a month ago) doing exactly that to my 93-17 heavy barrel as it was binding and as the barrel heated my shots would travel a path of about 5" up and to the right.....I completely sanded the stck from the trigger guard forward addind a good 1/16th to the clearance....I glass bedded the lug using some fiberglass compound i had left over from a bathtub repair....i drlled a 1/4 inch diameter hole at the center of the lug about an 1/8 deep and filled the lug hole about a little over an eigth of an inch deep and put some saran wrap over the entire stock area brfore reinserting the barrel/action///tighted down and waited a few hours......removed the barrel/action....removed the saran and removed any excess glass from the barrel channel proper.......let the stock finish curing overnite and reassembled it in the morning.......results...............FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!........I shot over a hundred rounds on a 90+ degree day and was laying in 2 to 3 inch groups at 200 yards with XTP's......that trigger is butt awfull....I believe I can shrink those groups by 50% with a 2 to 3 lb trigger....there was no signs of heat related travel....just the usual fliers from the vmaxs....it was breezy......and those vamxs dont take much to push them off course....PS...I use a BSA sweet 17 6x18x40 and it is DEAD NUTS for vmaxs....add 25 yards to the bullet drop compensator and you are dead nuts at 200(set at 225)....well worth the investment.......just wish burris/Nikon would build something similar.......BSA's clarity/light gathering on these leaves something to be desired...adequate at best........hope this helps...ps AGAIN ...if you are wondering why I drilled a small hole at the bottom the lug hole....check the bottom of the lug....it has a small indentation....didny want the fiberglass pimple on the bottom of the hole to become dislodged....gave it a foundation!
 

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Hi there Bucktail

Great post !!

Just a word of warning. If you decide to go for higher rings with the 50mm, you may well find like me that the stock cheek peice is not high enough and your shooting may go off.

I had to buy a rubber one to get back on target
 
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