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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Floating a CZ Style with the synthetic stock. ADDED what I did to fix it.

I want to know about Floating the barrel, Pillar Bedding the action in the stock and just bedding the action to the stock.

I have a CZ Style with the synthetic stock. I notice that the stock looks to be molded to the shape of the action and to the full length of the barrel.
When I try to put a piece of paper down the barrel from the front of where the stock starts it only goes about ½ and inch before getting tight and I can't get it any more down towards the action.

I have read recumbents thread

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208890&highlight=freefloating+the+452+varmint

on setting the front lug with a set screw and other threads about how the stock should NOT be touching the barrel from the front lug to the front of the stock.

But is this the same for a synthetic stock?? All the threads on floating and bedding seem to be about timber stocks.
Should I take some of the stock off by sanding it away to let the barrel float?
When I put the action/barrel back on to the stock I center the barrel with paper at the end of the stock.

I have a new CZ Style and I have only put 300 rounds through it but it's not to accurate yet, shooting about 3 inch groups at 65 yards. Some are under 2 inches.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was using Remington HP basic ammo (the cheap stuff) and now have got to use some Eley basic ammo(again the cheap stuff). The groups have tightened up a lot to about 1 inch groups @65y. These are all off a bipod.
I can at times see the round flying to the target through the scope, is that usual? Most of the remingtons that I see fly in an arc but some corkscrew which I take to be the flyers.
I thing the Eley's are the better round to use in this CZ at the moment.
I know that I'm a lot to blame for the large groups now, but if the synthetic stocks need the same treatment as the timber stocks then I'll do the same to my stock. I know that the stock is touching the barrell down at the end of the stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Well heres what I did and it seems to have worked. It may be different but hell shoots better.
I cut a small rectangle of plastic business card size, from the bottom of a recycleable shopping bag (a loose part in the bottom), about the thickness of a folded/tri-folded typing paper but less than a business card.
I put the plastic just behind the front lug between the stock and barrel. The plastic goes around the barrel and was sticking out both sides of the stock when all is put back together. I then trimed off the excess that was showing/sticking out with a box knife at the top edge of the stock.
This had the effect of lifting the barrel to float the barrel from the lug to the front of the stock. I can now put a business card down between the stock and barrel all the way down to the front lug real easy.
I just tightened the 2 action screws up enough to hold all in place, I don't have a tourk??? wrench.
Now off a harris 13-23 bipod I'm getting 1/2 inch groups @50m and can hit 1-1/2 inch targets @100m. The gun is good its me that can't hold it still.

Using Eley target lead round nose subs @ €40/500and SAK mod. Zero moves up 1-1/2 inch with the mod fitted.
I have also got some Federal Champion copper-plated HP high velocity's box of 525 @ €21 great price. Good flater shooting round and a BIG BANG from the round :D

Went hunting, with my son our first time out ever I'm 56 he's 28, and shot our first ever rabbits. My son has a CZ 527 in 223 thats getting threaded for a T8 mod now, not shot it yet.

Good fun and I'm well pleased with the CZ 22lr style now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Bump up this thread to report on what I did to the Style to get it on target.

Question for you all.........
Now I'm using the Federal Champion high velocity HP that are copper plated do I now have to clean the rifle bore more often?
Do I use a copper solvent to remove the copper from the bore?
OR do I just shoot away the same as ever?
 
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