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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Varmint in 17 HMR. This model has one action screw to the rear of the trigger and one in front of the magazine well which goes into a tang at the base of the magazine well. Those that have one will know what I mean.
In any case, the floorplate through which the forward action screw goes (which is part of the whole trigger guard) flexes and bends a little when the action screw is torqued. There is a few mm gap between the floorplate and the base of the tang. The inletting is not giving the metal enough support, and also there is only a few mm of metal either side of the screw which allows the bending to occur as the metal used is quite thin and soft.
I'm concerned that accuracy may be suffering because this is not as solid as it could be.
I've done a search to see if anyone else has needed to overcome this, but I couldn't find anything else.
I'm interested in the thoughts on this...
Thanks!
 

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Marty,
I have heard about this "issue" with some of the newer m452 magnum action setups...

Do you have any pics you can post??

You WOULD get a good diagnosis of the problem if we could see what you are describing.. :t
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hehehe, I've always had bad timing... Lent my digital camera to a buddy for a few days... :(
I'll be able to post pics of the issue in a few days.
Cheers.
 

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To correct this you could glass bed the floor plate to the stock. I just glass bedded the floorplate/trigger guard assembly on a CZ Varmint 22LR. Haven't shot it yet am in the process of finishing the custom stock.
 

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I understand what you mean. The floorplate bends a little when you tighten the forward action screw because the inletting in that area is a little deep. I doubt that it will affect accuracy any but if it worries you try a shim with a hole in it or a thin washer between the floorplate and stock. This is probably one of those "shoot, try something, shoot again" things to see if it makes any difference.

I agree with Recumbent that glass bedding the floorplate would be the best permanent fix - if one is needed.

GHP
 

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Maybe a washer between the

floor plate and magazine would works. My CZ 17 HMR has the same problem and I ended up using a small washer. Get a couple different thicknesses to see whats best for you.

I also put a small dab of touch up paint to "index" the screw so the same torque is applied if the screw is removed. The touch up paint scrapes off easily without damaging the bluing.
 

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As you know,there is no support in the stock for the floorplate where the front action screw is located. Bad design. Adding a spacer washer will just maintain a constant looseness in the stock. My .17 Varmint shot awful out of the box. Fortunately, the tang extends quite a ways forward of the front action screw. I installed another screw ahead of the existing one and tapped into the barrel just ahead of the receiver. You gotta' be careful here, but there is plenty of metal on the varmint barrel. I also glass bedded the action and the first several inches of barrel along with pillar bedding. Now the gun shoots very good groups-- well under an inch at 100 yards. I don't see any other way to secure the action and the stock correctly.
 

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Marty1

I had the same problem & just drilled, er I mean machined another hole in the trigger guard, forward of the mag well screw, countersunk it, then put in a black wood type screw so it secured the trigger guard to the stock in that forward area, this took out all flex & gives a solid platform for the front of the action to sit on, this made a dramatic improvment in groups, now I can start playing around with the bedding, this is for 17 HMR Varmint other CZ's have action screws in different places & this modifacation won't work, planewrench I think drilling through the stock far enough to contact the barrel is a bit risky as securing the guard plate to the stock achieves the same end result without the chance of a :eek: happening, followed by :( , then :mad: at ones self! will say if your good with tools it would certainly make the action secure!!
 

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Guess I should elaborate on the washer...

that was used to eliminate problems in my CZ 17 HMR. There was absolutely no side to side play in the action after bedding thanks to the dovetails notched in the bottom front of the guns action. This also alleviated fore aft movement. The rear dovetailed lug was locked into the action and the rear screw hole was pillared.

The front action screw was an enigma due to the variable amount of tightening one could apply. The stamped steel trigger guard floor plate could be forced to curl up. I estimated the small free space between the floor plate and magazine bottom and bought some washers small enough not to touch the stock, but able to slip over the front action screw inside the stock between the floor plate and magazine bottom.

The washer meets solidly with the magazine and the floor plate is flush with the stock.

You could call it a sleeve or a washer, but it works.

If your rifle wasn't bedded or the wrong sized washer was used, it could cause the action to slop in the stock.
 

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planewrench said:
As you know,there is no support in the stock for the floorplate where the front action screw is located. Bad design. Adding a spacer washer will just maintain a constant looseness in the stock. My .17 Varmint shot awful out of the box. Fortunately, the tang extends quite a ways forward of the front action screw. I installed another screw ahead of the existing one and tapped into the barrel just ahead of the receiver. You gotta' be careful here, but there is plenty of metal on the varmint barrel. I also glass bedded the action and the first several inches of barrel along with pillar bedding. Now the gun shoots very good groups-- well under an inch at 100 yards. I don't see any other way to secure the action and the stock correctly.
As I said, a real front action screw drilled through the floorplate and stock and drilled and tapped into the barrel will SOLVE the problem. (No room at the front of the receiver for a screw).Where the floorplate extends forward of the existing front screw it is supported solidly by the stock. You must take some careful and accurate measurements to do this.
 

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Planewrench aren't you the one...

with the CZ thats all screwed up that we tried to help at one time? Maybe thats why the washer trick won't work for you. Your CZ was way too loose from the factory and you had all those problems. Your right a washer would would make yours even worse.

Most CZ's I've seen didn't have the same problems as yours.
 

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Dan S said:
with the CZ thats all screwed up that we tried to help at one time? Maybe thats why the washer trick won't work for you. Your CZ was way too loose from the factory and you had all those problems. Your right a washer would would make yours even worse.

Most CZ's I've seen didn't have the same problems as yours.
Dan, the point here is that the front action screw is basically unsupported. And, yes, I'm the one who asked for advice about my gun. Although I am a gunsmith, I hadn't worked on CZs before and thought it best to run it by you guys. When I analyzed the problem with my own gun I saw that it needed a real action screw that would offer more support for the front of the action Rigidity is one of the primary requirements for an accurate rifle. This really isn't a difficult modification and can be accomplished by someone with basic hand tools and a drillpress. Regards, George.
 

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In the original post...

the owner complains of flex in the floorplate of his CZ 17HMR. This has been reported before and is also what occurs in my rifle. The flex indicates that the action is solidly meeting the stock and the floor plate also is meeting the stock. The problem is the space between the bottom of the magazine and floorplate.

The floorplate is inletted in the stock and the action is round, so both will engage in a fairly consistent manner. The main thing is that they obviously will do so tightly. In your case, the magazine length is too long for the stock and the action/floorplate don't engage properly. Adding a washer will only exacerbate the issue by extending the magazine length. So you are correct.

In marty1's case, he should be able to experiment with washers and find one that allows a solid lock up. Drilling and tapping as you mention will also work though, its his option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just to further elaborate...
The action is bedded front and rear, and quite solidly.
Rear is better then OK, the action will not go anywhere, and that is even taking into consideration the dove tailed round lug sitting in that bottom of the action and sliding all over the place. (The bedding job has meant that this lug is nice and secure in the bedding at the bottom of the action.)
Thing is though, that even though the action is bedded at the front, there is nothing to tighten up on and lock it into the hard won bedding at the front because the front action screw is on the magazine base which is miles away from anything which will pull staright down into the action and moreover, anything like rgidity is lost because the floorplate doesn't have enough meat to be stable.
Obviously from the replies the concept is not new, so just wondering what has been done to overcome...
Ie, what is the best way to make to front action screw stable??
Thanks.
 

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marty1 said:
Just to further elaborate...
The action is bedded front and rear, and quite solidly.
Rear is better then OK, the action will not go anywhere, and that is even taking into consideration the dove tailed round lug sitting in that bottom of the action and sliding all over the place. (The bedding job has meant that this lug is nice and secure in the bedding at the bottom of the action.)
Thing is though, that even though the action is bedded at the front, there is nothing to tighten up on and lock it into the hard won bedding at the front because the front action screw is on the magazine base which is miles away from anything which will pull staright down into the action and moreover, anything like rgidity is lost because the floorplate doesn't have enough meat to be stable.
Obviously from the replies the concept is not new, so just wondering what has been done to overcome...
Ie, what is the best way to make to front action screw stable??
Thanks.
Jesus, Marty, haven't you read my posts? You will be better off with a NEW SCREW toward the front of the tang!!! There's nothing to support the existing one.
 
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