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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone explain to me the how the stock action springs are different from Extra Power and Reduced Power aftermarket springs?
My original springs measure thus:
Disconnector: .132 od, .364 l, .018 wire, 6 turns
Trigger: .150 od, .485 l, .020 wire, 9 1/2 turns
To me, Extra power means stiffer/thicker wire and Reduced power means softer/thinner wire but the terms seem to be used interchangebly.
Please enlighten me.

Dave
 

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Depends on approach

when using a factory, or most aftermarket hammers, some people believe that by reducing spring tension, you are reducing trigger pull weight, because ANY spring tension that is ultimately stacked against the single action trigger will result in a heavier pull in order for the trigger to release. In a lot of people's 10/22 trigger groups, you can find a lot of areas where there is still slop in the tolerances, and in this instance, to a degree, a lighter spring tension, whether in the disconnector or the hammer, or the return plunger, will result in a lighter overall pullweight. Essentially, this is like trying to put a band-aid on a Hemmorage, but people still do it all of the time. It's cheap, and a big improvement over the factory trigger pull. Once you have done all of "This stuff", and begin to learn about how all of the moving parts relate to each other, then you can understand that it is by removing the slop in ALL of the tolerances that makes it possible for "Real" performance to take place. After you get over the fact that you accomplished a lighter pull weight, then you learn about what pre-travel, and creep are doing to your grouping/accuracy=nothing good.
Pretty soon you decide that "Pre-travel and Creep must die", and so you begin to explore the sear and hammer engagement, and get all of that sorted out.
Eventually, by going through every nook and cranny, and ferreting out all of the everything that destroys ultimate performance, I for instance use a very heavy disconnector spring, and a very high tension setting on my return spring (adjustable), and a PC "Extra Power" hammer and re-coil spring, but they do not adversely affect my trigger performance, as my trigger only travels about .001-.003" before it releases the hammer, and has about a 1 pound pull weight. All originally factory parts that I have modified in one way or another, except I utilize a TPA trigger because I prefer the feel of the flat face, and, well, it just plain looks cool, while woking great.
There are more than several members of the forum that have "Stellar" factory based trigger groups, using most all of the original factory parts, but things like springs and pins are "Fair game" for replacement. :t
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Skeeter.
I am aware of the slop in the pivot points and see Loctite 609 in my future.
I have already 'adjusted' the sear engagement, reduced the hammer base radius and polished several surfaces. My trigger pull is now ~3lb, shorter, and smoother and I was interested in trying some other springs to see if it got any better but the descriptions seem inconsistent. Some say extra power, some say reduced. I don't want to reduce the hammer spring significantly, if at all, but I would like a lighter trigger, which appears to necessitate a lighter disconnector, which may require lower sear mass. I have drilled a few (5) holes in the sear to make it lighter, but without a different spring I can't tell if it helps any. These are educated theories, possibly overkill.
At this point it's a 'man vs machine' game. I don't get to work on it much and have tested only the function in the last 6 months.
I wanted to know which springs are actually lighter than stock... without buying and trying all of them.
 
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