Dumb idea?

Arrow Wood Oil

Vincent said:

When I got it it had some small "issues" that needed to be addressed (still needs bedding changed) but it had about 3-5 (I do not remember for sure) coats of Arrow Wood oil (basically a 98% tung oil with a few additives) and in these pictures it has about 15 coats. It needs a couple more.

There is an old saying about tung oil finishes something like:

"A coat of oil every day for a week. A coat of oil every week for a month. A coat of oil every month for a year. A coat of oil every year forever!"

It is not what I would have chosen for a finish if I got the stock naked but I was afraid to change horses in midstream. After contacting "noremf" he said it would be a lot of work to change to something else and a possibility I would end up screwing up a very nice piece of wood!!

n it ready for testing:bthumb:

Click to expand...

Arrow Wood Oil is not Tung Oil based. It is Boiled Linseed Oil based with about 50% Alcohol thinners with a small amount of original formula Mineral Spirits.

Contents are:

Boiled linseed oil 8001-26-1 47.4%
Isopropyl Alcohol 67-63-0 17.6%
Ethyl alcohol 64-17-5 10.3%
Mineral Spirits 8030-30-8 2.6%
Methyl alcohol 67-56-1 .8%

The MSDS is directly from the guy that markets it. He does not make it albeit he implies he does. He is a sales guy pure and simple. Did not want to send me the MSDS until I claimed I was a "downstream" user which means by law he has to send it. He did via email.

The periodic "refreshing" still applies. BLO is one of the "children" of the "parent" called semi-drying oils. Never really cures or sets up if you like that term better.

If you decide to look up the product I strongly recommend you view the marketing hype with a very large grain of salt to say the least.

FIRST OFF....IT IS NOT A BAD PRODUCT!!!!!!!!

I want to make that clear!!!!!!

But all it is is thinned Boiled Linseed Oil with the attributes of that finish.

I did extensive research on it back in 2014 for a RFC member and it has no "magic" qualities about it regardless of the hype.

Spent 45 minutes on the phone with the guy who markets it.

I even saw a demonstration of it's use at a gun show and it was staged to make it look like it does.

Also got a sample which I messed with for a few days.

Did a post on it on 5/2/2014.

The removal or putting another finish over it warning(s) still stands. If it were a cold pressed plant/vegetable you would need a barrier coat of Shellac over it before you could use a different finish.

As far as being BLO, while some folks say they have not had any problems putting say Tru-Oil® over it there are far more folks that have especially on Military wooden stocked rifles.

If it does go "south" you got big problems and to remove it is a real PIA.

Threads on that.

noremf(George)

azjeff said:

Since I picked up the '96 10/22 and decided to build a heavy I've been looking at barrels and stocks, and working on the trigger group and bolt. Having access to a high precision machine shop at work and machinists who like to tinker there's no need to send anything out. Today I got the idea to make this an all-Ruger build. Obviously the barrel is the big question mark so I ask, is it a waste of time putting any work into a Ruger Target barrel? If there's potential there to shoot MOA with the usual re-chamber/crown etc. it's an interesting thought. If they just won't shoot I'll keep thinking. Not interested in rolling the dice on that 1 in 100 barrel that shoots if that's how it is.

TIA for the input.

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I wouldn't be afraid to go the all-Ruger route.
My Dad gave me my 10/22 at the age of 8- now 36.5- and the trigger was horrible. Sent it off to a sympathetic gunsmith friend who started work on the trigger. I carried it on until I was happy with it and then left it alone after that. Mainly I polished the hammer with a fine diamond knife sharpener that I had, and took any machining marks off the top. It felt gritty from new and now it's as smooth as can be.
One thing I noticed early on, was the next round in the magazine would have a scrape mark from the bolt gouging it as it closed, so I put a radius on that as well. First round was always on the money and then not so much..
I may have had that trigger apart 30 times til I was really happy with it but I'm pleased I took the time. Over here in NZ there just weren't heaps of aftermarket goodies available on the shelf, and even as a kid, loved to do things myself.
Biggest accuracy improvement was taking that corner off the rib on the bolt, and floating the barrel with a strip of emery cloth. All free.
My friend has been long range big-bore shooting for years and he cannot believe my 10/22 stock trigger is so crisp. We were testing it on boxing day with CCI ammo and both shooting .6" at 100 yards, 10 shot groups. Was hot after 400 rounds though.
Best of luck with your project. I will haul it out and take some photos if my explanations are hard to decipher
Pete

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