[medicman5000]

Ok so I want to do a trigger job to my 1022. I dont really have the cash or the want to buy an expensive after market trigger. Id like to lighten up the stock trigger, but have never donr it before. Now guys I do understand the risks with a light trigger so I will not hold any info against any one........with that said......HOW DO I DO IT?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?! Feel free to make the instructions simple.

Thanks

 

[stratcat]

man, it don't get much simpler and safer than the VQ option at 32 bucks from a sponsor. But if you insist on doing it yourself, you'll have to talk to someone more knowledgable than me. (I don't have the guts to try stoning my own hammer)

by the way, if you go too much and have to buy a couple of new stock ruger hammers, in my opinion you'll have just as much into the trial and error as the VQ option. just some food for thought..

 

[medicman5000]

VQ option?

32 Bones?

Do tell!

I was under the impression that I would have to spend much more then that.

 

[050]

Volquartrsen.

They are one of our sponsors. Check 'em out on the home page, although virtually anyone who carries trick 10/22 parts handles them. It should cut your trigger pull by about 2/3. Don't waste your money on the sear, just the hammer.

Ron

 

[medicman5000]

Im familiar with Volquartsen. I guess Im just not familiar with wat it is exactly that Im looking for.

Somthing like this?

http://www.volquartsen.com/product.asp?pid=49

 

[stratcat]

yep, exactly what you are looking for..


off of the top of my head, Hawk and the other sponsor Stafford Sales both carries this item, very big improvement. Probably the biggest you'll get for the least amount of money.

and it's an easy change out..

 

[medicman5000]

Sweet so what other options are there? Educate this poor soul!

 

[stratcat]

me personally:

I started with the VQ hammer upgrade, then found myself in the tips and tricks forums, and about a month later I emerged from my basement shop with a cool tweaked out rifle!!

there are a bunch of things you can buy, but there are a lot that you can do yourself with minimal tools and a bit of work. I had more fun doing the things myself than buying it. Some of them are: chamfering the bolt, bolt release mod, "clickster" spring trick, taking up the slop in the sear.

have fun, ask for help if you need it and enjoy!!

 

[050]

I'd also suggest that if your hammer comes with a new spring to NOT use it. At least to start with. Fooling around changing springs on a gun that is marginal to start with can cause all kinds of strange headaches that can be hard to trace. Make sure the gun functions with the stock spring, then if it is OK, you might put in the aftermarket one to try out.

A lot of these springs that come with various "kits" are only sold with whatever you are buying to make it look like you are getting more for your money, when in actuality, they prove nothing, usually, or worse, they introduce differences that cause problems.

Ron

 

[Plinker]

Excellent suggestion Ron

Bag fillers are all most of those
springs are,as well as most of the so
called "spring kits" on the market.

Sort of like sell'in ice cubes to
Eskamo's.

IMHO of course.

 

[medicman5000]

Well guys a big thanks for all suggestions. Im kinda one of tose guys tho that love to try things myself. Not only for braging rights, but for the education the hands on experimentation provides. Last night I did some research via hundreds of Google searches. FYI google groups are an amazing resource. So any way after using suggestions and part print outs that I found here and other sites I went to work on that heavy ol' trigger. After about 1.5 hrs work (only because I was being cautious as hell) I now have a triger that Im guessing pulls at less then a pound. Now I want to figure out how to reduce the trigger play/overtravel. Got a few Ideas....any suggestions? Again thanks for all the help guys! If any one wants to know how the Modification works let me know. And trust me, if you have a dremel and a precision file any one can do it!

 

[050]

Medicman...

A couple things. Run the rifle through all the safety tests!!!! Don't assume it is safe until you do. My Trigger is done to within an ounce of what you are saying you have, and believe me... you are RIGHT ON THE EDGE!!!!! Don't just shrug it off and think you did such good work that it can't have a problem. Run the safety tests!

As to your question about further trigger work, check out the Tips and Tricks section here. I believe the directions are there for taking care of it. If not just yell.. someone will come in and talk you through it.

Ron

 

[medicman5000]

Antlurz

Dont worry I planned on that. When I go the trigger to the point where I liked it I reassembled the gun and cocked it. At that point I shook the rifle quite a bit and bumped the butt of the stock on the floor a feew times. All this didnt cause the hammer to slip. I also insured that the safety was still fully functional. Now that the trigger is tweaked the safety is going to be used frequently as habit from now on. I plan on taking it to the range here in a couple days and fire the crap out of it.

Thanks for the heads up, too much safety is nonexistent in my book.

 

[050]

Glad to hear you tested it, but I could offer a couple other checks as well. It's funny that mechanically, the test most likely to trip it is NEVER...or at least extremely seldom tested. Probably because it could mess up a scope or sight if you aren't careful, but the best way to test it is turning it upside down and banging the TOP of the receiver aqainst something. If it is going to fail, that will be the one that trips it.

Also, put the safety on, then squeeze the trigger hard, then release the trigger...... then release the safety. Did it fire when you released it?

Take care.
Ron

 

[medicman5000]

Antlurz

Hmmmmmm, good stuff. I think I will try it. Good thing is that I have a cheep o scope on the gun right now wating for my new one to come so the reciver bang will not be a problem. Thanks again.

 

[The Shootist]

Just one more thing...

A trigger that works fine while cocking and pulling the trigger, with your hands, may not function properly while fired.

Take the trigger group out, and while holding it in your hand, depress the hammer past the cocked position with your thumb. Then slip your thumb aside and let the hammer bounce up, hard, to stop against the sear. Do this repeatedly, and fast. If the hammer even once slips past the sear, then you have an assembly that will double tap, or even go full auto.

I have found that the 1 1/4# trigger that I was soo proud of, now with the added smoothness of wear, tends to double fire about once per magazine. I think I can fix it without adding too much pressure, but may have to get a new hammer and start over.

Just do this "Bounce Test", it may save you a wasted trip to the range.

 

[050]

Good point!

Ron

 

[medicman5000]

Hmmmmm. When I was doing the mod I fired the trigger assembly a few times letting the hammer hit my thumb. I never wittnessed what you are talking about. Am I on the same page with what your talking about?

 

[rc.]

Sandpaper and block O' steel

Get some 320 grit and 600 grit sandpaper and a steel bar clamped in a vise. You wrap the paper on the bar and move your sear back and fourth along the straight edge to polish the engagement. I would also sand the top of the sear and the tip of the sear so it is 600 grit smooth. Rubber polishing points and rouge to finish the job. The hard part is keeping the hammer from wiggling back and fourth as you dress the edge on the sandpaper coated straight steel edge. There is also a a certain angle you need to use for the job to turn out good but I can't describe that angle in words. Go slow and have some square edges to check your work as you go so you know engagement is consistent across the hammer notch. This is very important for a consistent and creep free pull. Grease the surfaces and re-assemble. This will minimize wear and keep surfaces slick. You can also drill and tap the trigger for a set screw to put overtravel adjustment in your trigger. Factory parts will work fine for many years if the job is done right. rc

 

[Fumbler]

medicman,
What The Shootist is telling you to do is basically the same thing that happens when the gun fires a real round.
Without your finger on the trigger, push the hammer as far down as you can.
Release it so it pops up by itself. A safe gun should not let the hammer go.
Try it a lot of times.
I worked on my trigger and got it down to 5 lbs (from 8) and it shot nice.
Took it down to 2 lbs and then tok it to the range.
When cycling the action by hand the hammer would rest fine but when the cartridge cycled it the whole mechanism went too fast for the hammer to catch onto the sear.
The result was a bullet fired, shell ejected, hammer cocked but then slipped back into the fired position, and a new cartridge was striped from the magazine and chambered.
I pulled the trigger again and of course nothing happend.
On 3 occasions the gun fired two rounds with one trigger pull.
Luckily the rangemaster was a gunsmith and it took us about 30 minutes but he helped me figure out what was wrong.
You're especially run into this problem while changing the hammer's engagement angle too much.

Hope that helped

If you have a good knife sharpening stone that will work even better than sandpaper because it won't round the edges like sandpaper might do.
i started off with 320 grit paper glued to glass then used a medium stone. I polished it with a 3000 grit ceramic stone.