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Everyone,

I was in Atlantic Guns yesterday just browsing and I noticed a couple of CZ 511s on the rack. One was used for $189 and the other was brand new ... for $329. The used rifle seemed basic, perhaps a Standard level, while the new rifle had a much nicer stock, perhaps it was a Lux version. So, it would appear that CZ is now importing them into the states.

Joe
 

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The .22 magnum version is a model 611.
The .22LR version is the 511.
Last I heard only the 611 was available in the USA.

I have a 511 and it is one of my favorite .22 semis. There are plenty of used 511's here in Canada ,and perhaps a few unsold NIB. Some may have found their way south of the border.

I heard a while back from an RFC member who had purchased a "dealers sample" of the 511 in the USA and handled two more. They were marked with an upside down "Y" after the serial number. They are apparently defective and will not feed ammo reliably. Check the serial number before you buy.

I have heard complaints that the 511 is not reliable. Best to purchase subject to a test period. Mine is very reliable. Of the forty-odd .22 semis I own, it is one of the few which to my recollection has never suffered a single misfeed. Unlike most takedown semis, the barrel is threaded into the receiver. It will shoot sub .5" at 50 yds with ordinary high velocity ammo like Federal Classic or Power Points.

Middle gun in photo:

 

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Reg, the one I saw was a Magnum, had the take down knob on the side. When you held it looking it over it was kinda heavy, but when you shouldered it, it was balanced perfectly and seemed light.
If it had been a LR, I would have bought it. How well does the Magnums shoot? Thanks.
 

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MangesMade,

I have never shot the 611 magnum and I cannot comment on it's accuracy except to say it appears to have a similar mechanism to the 511.

I would expect similar accuracy, and I would expect a heavy, creepy trigger that needs to be tuned up a bit. Easy to do on the 511, hammer and sear are similar to the 10/22.

I plan to buy a 611 as soon as I find a good used one.
 

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Be Very Careful

Make certain the CZ511 advertised in this thread at "The Gun Shop" is not a Salesman's Sample with an up-side-down y after the serial number. I know they had some as I bought one and returned it for a refund after finding out CZ-USA would not service the rifle because it WAS a Saleman's Sample.
 

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I called cz-usa .there have been no 511's imported by them .or made at the factory,since 1999,or thereabouts.Currently there are no plans to reintroduce the 511,or to sell a semi-auto.This info from the cz lady called Alice,who has a charming czech accent!!
 

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I went to the Gun Shop in Lilburn, GA. He did have one good CZ511, not a Salesman's Sample, without the upsidedown y under the last number of the serial number. I bought it and have shot it without any misfeeds, jamming, or stovepipes. :) It was made in 1998 and was imported by CZ-USA in Kansas City. I stongly advise y'all not to buy one of the Salesman's Samples with the upsidedown y. They must be factory rejects as the two I tried out 6 months ago, maybe longer, were real P'sOS functioning wise. The one I got fired and functioned flawlessly. Now I need to scope it to wring it out accuracy-wise. :D

PS- Hey Reg, thanks for all your help back when I was dealing with those CZ511 Salesman's Samples. I finally got a reliable one.
 

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Glad I could help, Bob.
Hope you will like yours as much as I have come to like mine.

How does yours shoot accuracy-wise?
Have you done anything about the trigger?

BTW Millett makes angle-loc rings specifically for the 611.
I just bought a set at a gun show last weekend
They have a small protrusion underneath to fit in a depression in the receiver. Should fit the 511 as well.
 

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To be truthful, mine is not a tack driver as I would have expected, with many flyers. I need to try more ammo but Wolf Match Target shows the best. And the trigger is horrible. The sear had a notch cut into the edge of it from the hammer engagement making it rough and creepy. I have tinkered with it and now the sear/disconnector does not hold the hammer when I release the trigger, making it double. CZ USA has the hammer and sear and if I can't fix it, the new parts will put me back where I started.
 

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Sorry to hear about your teething troubles.

I reworked the notch on the hammer on mine and and have had no disconnector problems. I reduced the angle slightly and shortened the engagement a bit. If you order new parts, you might consider getting two hammers and giving that a try.

You might be able to reduce those flyers by adjusting the clip inside the forend that engages the forward barrel lug. Mine likes to be really tight.
 

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Might as well post this as a reference.

BRNO/CZ 511 Takedown


Takedown is really simple once you know how. I really enjoy
>disassembling this rifle. You will see why as you do it.
>
> Using a quarter, loosen the large screw on the left rear of
>the receiver until it can be pulled out. Pull it out as far as it will
>go, it will
> stop before it falls out completely. DO NOT loosen the screw
>under the rifle, as you would to take apart most guns.
>
> Remove the magazine.(guess that should be step 1) Turn the
>rifle on it's side in your lap with the muzzle facing left and the
>trigger
> towards you. Hold the barrel with your left hand. Hold the
>takedown screw up as high as it will go with the side of your right
>index
> finger. Use your right thumb to push forwards and up on the
>trigger guard while pivoting the muzzle towards you with the left hand.
> Pivot the barrel down and most of the receiver up and out of
>the stock (sort of like a break action shotgun).The rear of the receiver
>and
> the screw stay in the stock.
>
> It will likely be a bit sticky and may take more than one try
>until you have done it a few times. It will jam up if you force it too
>hard.
> Tapping it smartly against your knee while gently following
>the above procedure helps.(remove scope before doing this)
>
> Once you have removed the barrel and action you can remove the
>entire trigger group by pushing one button. Keep the barrel and action
> on it's side in your lap with the muzzle facing left and the
>trigger towards you. Next to the hole where the takedown screw was and
> about one inch above the safety button there us a round button
>with a U-shaped tab on it. The tab is spring loaded. Push it down along
> the same axis as you would push the safety. While it is
>depressed pull the trigger group to the right. Neat, huh?
>
> Turn the rifle on its back so you are looking at the
>underneath of the bolt. Grasp the black block at the right end of the
>mainspring with
> the thumb and forefinger of your left hand and slide it 1/2"
>towards the muzzle and lift. Use your right index finger to prevent the
>spring
> pin from slipping out of your grip, flying to the left and
>smashing your computer monitor. (I did that once with a GEVARM E1) Then
> lift out the pin and spring and remove them. The bolt can now
>be slid freely to the right and lifted out. All ready for an easy and
> thorough cleaning
>
> With the trigger group removed cock the hammer and pull the
>trigger a few times. It is easy to see where the sear engages the notch
>on
> the round bottom of the hammer (like 10/22). That is the part
>you work on to improve trigger pull. I removed the hammer, and reduced the depth of the notch a bit
>at a time till I was satisfied. Check out Pichers 10/22 metalwork tips for
>details
> on how to do this. Don't get greedy or you will have to figure
>out how to order CZ parts. I understand it is not advisable to alter the sear.

I must thank jdsmenatwork for the following tip on trigger group disassembly.

To disassemble the trigger group, first cock the hammer. You will see a small hole in the top of the spring strut appear as it emerges from the rear of it's housing. Put a paper clip or small drill bit in the hole. Pull the trigger and lower the hammer. The hammer strut and its housing should pop out. (Be careful not to lose the safety tension spring below the strut housing.) The hammer can then be unhunged from it's pin by working it to the rear. Then the sear pin can be pulled and the sear and trigger removed. For a lighter trigger pull try a lighter spring in the hole forward of the trigger.
 
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