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Custom 10/22 Chassis

8037 Views 50 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  reverendg
For the past two and half months or so I've been working on my own custom 10/22 chassis. The goal of the project being to allow attaching AR15 grips and stocks to a 10/22. This is not a new idea and there are existing chassis on the market, namely one from Crazy Ivan. However, I looked at a few of these existing solutions and found enough issues (primarily with ergonomics) that I started decided to make my own.

I'm not a mechanical engineer or machinist so I might not know what I'm doing, but I'm proud with how this has turned out so far. I've done several 3D printed prototypes and so far things seem to fit together decently well. I have had some issues with dimensional stability with the 3D prints so I'm working on re-tuning my printer.

I'm still optimizing a few dimensions, but once I'm satisfied I want to get these parts machined out of aluminum. However, this is an expensive proposition so I'm taking my time.

I thought I'd share what I have here to gauge interest in this project. Getting custom parts machined benefits from bulk orders, so if there are a few people out there who might want one too that would lower the cost of each unit.




At the moment the forward grip/rail is a separate part. I would like to combine the two parts into one, but I need to talk to a machinist for quotes on how much more that would cost.
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doesn't look like I can use an actual AR rifle stock on that one either

I wanted to see one where I can use one of my left over AR stocks, like my Ace ARFX, Yankee Hill Machine Ultra Lite, or a Magpul Moe Rifle..which require a different type of connection to the rest of the chassis, not just a threaded hole or a bit of picatinny rail
View attachment 309265


View attachment 309264
I think my chassis should work with anything as long as it uses a buffer tube. I actually just got a new stock which is similar to the last picture. The clearance is not as nice around the top of the hand, but it does work.

I think the CrazyIvan chassis system does work with buffer tubes, but it definitely is lacking in hand clearance. It's one of the reasons I decided to do my own.
I think my chassis should work with anything as long as it uses a buffer tube. I actually just got a new stock which is similar to the last picture. The clearance is not as nice around the top of the hand, but it does work.

I think the CrazyIvan chassis system does work with buffer tubes, but it definitely is lacking in hand clearance. It's one of the reasons I decided to do my own.
if you had ever handled a bare AR lower receiver, you would know there is another smaller hole in the lower under the buffer tube hole..whose only purpose is to lock the rifle stock in place, so it can't rotate on the buffer tube...you need this hole in order to have a rifle stock tighten up against the rear of the receiver and be locked in place
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The Accurate Rifle Systems chassis will accept AR-style butt-stocks
if you had ever handled a bare AR lower receiver, you would know there is another smaller hole in the lower under the buffer tube hole..whose only purpose is to lock the rifle stock in place, so it can't rotate on the buffer tube...you need this hole in order to have a rifle stock tighten up against the rear of the receiver and be locked in place
This is true, but the 10/22 receiver and trigger aren't the right dimensions for there to be enough room to make this happen. Which is why on mine I have a, what I'm calling a "lock-ring". It's the gray piece in the most recent images. It's not quite as good as the standard AR stock configuration, but the lock ring with the castle nut does keep the whole thing in place.
The pmaca chassis used an ar buffer tube and you mount your stock of choice.

Air gun Trigger Line Gun barrel Wood

Machine gun Trigger Air gun Wood Wall
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The pmaca chassis used an ar buffer tube and you mount your stock of choice.

View attachment 310137
View attachment 310138
it uses a modern carbine buffer tube...very different set up from a rifle buffer tube

I've been shooting, building, and machining AR type rifles since the early eighties, I know how they go together..and trust me, a rifle stock won't work on one of these chassis' that are set up for a carbine tube without some sort of mod to keep a rifle stock from rotating on the tube which is the sole purpose of that hole under the buffer tube hole on the AR receiver in my pic

on the first generation collapsible stock on a AR carbine (the 607) they had to add a piece of round stock to that hole to keep the modified rifle stock from rotating
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it uses a modern carbine buffer tube...very different set up from a rifle buffer tube

I've been shooting, building, and machining AR type rifles since the early eighties, I know how they go together..and trust me, a rifle stock won't work on one of these chassis' that are set up for a carbine tube without some sort of mod to keep a rifle stock from rotating on the tube which is the sole purpose of that hole under the buffer tube hole on the AR receiver in my pic

on the first generation collapsible stock on a AR carbine (the 607) they had to add a piece of round stock to that hole to keep the modified rifle stock from rotating
What stock are you wanting to use? I assumed you wanted a modern ar style stock…..
What stock are you wanting to use? I assumed you wanted a modern ar style stock…..
I'm not wanting to use any particular stock exactly, but I've got a bunch of these A1 stocks in the AR parts bin just itching to be used on something..

so I thought it might be interesting to build a dedicated rimfire version of a 605, without going the simple route of just using a rimfire AR upper set up


it seems in the last few years, I've seen a few of these types of stocks come along by guys who have the capability to make it any configuration that they wish..yet everyone of them ignores the rifle stocks in favor of the same old carbine stocks...which I really never cared for...if it's a ergonomics thing I can understand that

but my idea was to sink the receiver into the stock a bit more (or raise the stock up around the receiver if you prefer) and use a bolt on carry handle for the rear sight and a normal AR front sight base on the barrel..you know like closer to a real AR set up


AR FSB converted to use set screws..instead of the normal taper pins
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I'm not wanting to use any particular stock exactly, but I've got a bunch of these A1 stocks in the AR parts bin just itching to be used on something..

so I thought it might be interesting to build a dedicated rimfire version of a 605, without going the simple route of just using a rimfire AR upper set up


it seems in the last few years, I've seen a few of these types of stocks come along by guys who have the capability to make it any configuration that they wish..yet everyone of them ignores the rifle stocks in favor of the same old carbine stocks...which I really never cared for...if it's a ergonomics thing I can understand that

but my idea was to sink the receiver into the stock a bit more (or raise the stock up around the receiver if you prefer) and use a bolt on carry handle for the rear sight and a normal AR front sight base on the barrel..you know like closer to a real AR set up


AR FSB converted to use set screws..instead of the normal taper pins
Man how the heck you get those pins out and then convert to set screws? I have an upper that I ummm. Messed up the barrel because my son decided he wanted to convert my handled ar to a flat top. Found out the muzzle brake was pinned and welded. Couldn’t get that off so I cut it off (yikes) and now I can’t get the front sight off so I can chuck the barrel in my lathe and fix it.
Man how the heck you get those pins out and then convert to set screws? I have an upper that I ummm. Messed up the barrel because my son decided he wanted to convert my handled ar to a flat top. Found out the muzzle brake was pinned and welded. Couldn’t get that off so I cut it off (yikes) and now I can’t get the front sight off so I can chuck the barrel in my lathe and fix it.
they're taper pins..you have to drive them out in the correct direction, or you just make them even tighter

drive them out from left to right using a small sledge and a punch with a concave face to fit the end of the pin.. one or two blows usually does it

then it's just a drill and tap operation..

or you can see if you can find this clamp on FSB from Armalite, like the one that I used on my 6.8mm SPC carbine

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they're taper pins..you have to drive them out in the correct direction, or you just make them even tighter

drive them out from left to right using a small sledge and a punch with a concave face to fit the end of the pin.. one or two blows usually does it

then it's just a drill and tap operation..

or you can see if you can find this clamp on FSB from Armalite, like the one that I used on my 6.8mm SPC carbine

Thx! Where did you get that flash suppressor? I cut the barrel so I need something a little long to add length back. I’ll pin and weld it for legality.
Thx! Where did you get that flash suppressor? I cut the barrel so I need something a little long to add length back. I’ll pin and weld it for legality.
it's a custom made slip over made for me, by one of the members from ARFCOM.


how long do you need the FH to go? when GM messed up their first batch of retro AR barrels by cutting them too short


when GM sold the barrels off cheap, I had CNC Warrior make me some longer FH's..they still offer them
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it's a custom made slip over made for me, by one of the members from ARFCOM.


how long do you need the FH to go? when GM messed up their first batch of retro AR barrels by cutting them too short


when GM sold the barrels off cheap, I had CNC Warrior make me some longer FH's..they still offer them
About 2” maybe 2.5”. I gotta remeasure. They said out of stock on the link you posted.
About 2” maybe 2.5”. I gotta remeasure. They said out of stock on the link you posted.
once you have your measurements, give them a call, and see when they'll be available again..they're great guys to work with
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Cracked... unless I'm missing the intent of your question... my PMACA chassis has the locking ring (bright aluminum) for securing a carbine buffer tube using castle nut, but other than having the 4 alignment slots on the socket
Sleeve Bicycle part Tints and shades Automotive design Metal
visible, a rifle length tube should be able to just screw on
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Cracked... unless I'm missing the intent of your question... my PMACA chassis has the locking ring (bright aluminum) for securing a carbine buffer tube using castle nut, but other than having the 4 alignment slots on the socket View attachment 310497 visible, a rifle length tube should be able to just screw on
and what's to stop the stock from rotating on the tube...since rifle tubes are smooth and AR rifle stocks use only two screw through the buttplate for attachment... one screw (#78) holds the sling swivel and trapdoor hinge, and one (#76) holds the stock to the rear of the tube...and that one screw won't stay tight very long with any twisting force allowed because the front of the stock is not being locked into the rear of the receiver properly
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... I'd most likely roll pin it or epoxy the rifle stock to the tube once the tube was tightened
dug through my pics and found one of the only AR carbines to use a rifle buffer tube...the 608 predates the collapsible stock models


notice, since it doesn't use a sling swivel, it has only one stock screw




when I was heavy into AR's, I found this 608 stock...but I never found the shouldered screw that was used to hold it on the buffer tube...it uses a shouldered screw that would stay tight because it allowed the stock to spin on the tube

... I'd most likely roll pin it or epoxy the rifle stock to the tube once the tube was tightened
the stock is worth more than the rest of the rifle, since retro AR parts are worth a fortune nowadays, I wouldn't modify any AR parts for a 10/22 build...except maybe an A2 grip...I have a few dozen of those things laying around from previous builds
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Cracked... I use a VietNam era A1 stock on my 3 gun carbine as well as my AR9 PCC...at the first Ft Benning 3 gun match in 2005, a lot of the Reserve and Guard units were ramping up to go to Iraq, and several young NCOs were looking at what the civilian shooters were using... they had the golden credit cards, but didn't know what to buy... a young E-6 asked to look at my carbine ... A1 stock and TA01 ACOG... looked through the scope and commented "wow, this stock is great, where did you get it?"... I replied, Sarge you probably have a stack of them in your arms room... it is funny how quickly the collective knowledge within a organisation like the US military is lost... regards
Wow this thread has been busy! I didn't realize since I stopped getting notifications...

it uses a modern carbine buffer tube...very different set up from a rifle buffer tube

I've been shooting, building, and machining AR type rifles since the early eighties, I know how they go together..and trust me, a rifle stock won't work on one of these chassis' that are set up for a carbine tube without some sort of mod to keep a rifle stock from rotating on the tube which is the sole purpose of that hole under the buffer tube hole on the AR receiver in my pic

on the first generation collapsible stock on a AR carbine (the 607) they had to add a piece of round stock to that hole to keep the modified rifle stock from rotating
Oh I see now, interesting. I did not know there was a difference between a carbine and rifle stock for the AR. Yeah again the problem is just the size of the 10/22 receiver and trigger group doesn't allow there to be enough room to incorporate the extra piece required to keep the stock from rotating. However, that doesn't mean you can't do it at all. What I think you might be able to do, if I were thinking how this 10/22 chassis could be adapted, you might be able to modify the lock ring to incorporate that key on the classic stock -- it would be a bigger ring, but I think would work. Would not help the ergonomics I was going for with this design, but it can be done. Perhaps implemented as an extended tube like assembly to help smooth everything out. In fact I might CAD this up. The stock I have now could benefit from such an idea...

Also the problem I have the PMCA, Crazy Ivan, and every other chassis under the sun is the ergonomics of them. Looking at the pictures just in this thread, none of them are really designed with good upper hand clearance in mind. I saw that and was not particularly impressed, hence one of the reasons I started this project.

I also did get a quote from Phoenix Weaponry, and in case anyone was curious how much a project like this costs, it's about $50,000 for a run of 25 (their minimum which I did not realize, silly me). I think that's in 7075 though, I was probably going to go with 6061. I need to check that. At any rate, sadly, I probably won't be able to go with them.
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