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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm doing a trigger job on my Contender, made 1993, for pistol silhouette shooting. When the striker is engaged with the trigger sear (the little flat area on the very end of the topmost part of the trigger), the striker only goes barely past the very tip of the sear even when I have the trigger engagement screw turned completely out and with the trigger touching the top of the trigger housing. It only takes ¾ of a full turn of the engagement screw from where the screw first touches the trigger housing to trip the striker. I only rounded the edge of the striker to take the knife edge off per Bellm’s instructions and only honed and polished the sear enough to get it smooth. Could the striker pin hole or its pin be worn? There is a lot of side to side play in the striker but very little up and down. The striker will move until it touches its spring both left and right. How much play should the striker have from side to side? Could the striker have been made too short or the trigger be defective somewhere? When the striker is engaged with the sear and I push up hard on the base of the striker and down on the sear they won’t engage any further. I have done nothing to the trigger spring, and the trigger does return fully when released. There is only the tiniest side to side play in the trigger when pushed from side to side. I bought the frame used, but the seller claimed the frame was used very little. Should I order another striker, striker pin or trigger from T/C? Thanks for any replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It is functioning normally in every way other than the problem I described. The striker>sear>hammer function is totally independent of the striker and trigger sear function. The sear is the part that is hit by the striker and then hits the hammer which releases the hammer. The trigger sear is the flat end of the trigger that the striker engages. Maybe the fact that the striker barely contacts the trigger sear really is not a problem because the striker does not bump off no matter how hard I hit the trigger assembly when the striker is engaged with the trigger. It just seems like the striker should go way past the tip of the trigger sear when the engagement screw is turned completely out. The trigger is too heavy as is for silhouette, so I'm going to have to lighten the trigger by cutting coils off the the trigger return spring. Because the contact between the striker and trigger sear is so tiny when I weaken the trigger spring to the point where the trigger is light enough, and that means very light for silhouette, I fear the striker will be too prone to bump off. Or if the weakened trigger spring can't return the trigger 100% the striker will bump off too easily.
 

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As long as it will not bump or push off it will be OK. I hone and stone then clip the origional spring or replace the spring completly, depending on the final trigger pull desired. In your case you may want to put a lighter spring in, to preserve the origional to at least test if everything is OK. If it still functions fine then you can clip it. I use mostly Wolf bulk springs, but the hardware store variety will work fine. I do not use, or recommend a spring from a ball point pen.
Good luck.
Kim
 
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