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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all - hope I am posting in the right section? Anyway my new 10/22 seems to shoot really great with the exception of a flier that ruins an otherwise excellent group. I have heard the first shot that is loaded manually is sometimes the shot that is the flier. Seems to me that was not always the case with my gun. Kind of hard to see the holes at 50 yards with a 4X scope. I know there can be many other causes - shooter error being one of them! But I don't have the problem when shooting my other modified 10/22 or any other rifle like my CZ. I replaced the trigger with the trigger from my old 10/22 that is around 2.25-2.5 lbs before even shooting the rifle.

Randy at CPC lists some items that he does to the 10/22 bolt that helps to reduce fliers - square bolt face and firing pin retainer pin. Anyone have this performed on their 10/22 bolt? If you had fliers before did his work help?

I know the ammo itself can be responsible for fliers. The scope I am using at the moment is a cheapie - a Simmons 22 mag 4X but it has given me pretty good service on other guns.

Any other ideas? I may switch the bolt with my older 10/22 and see what happens - also going to try the rifle with my 6X Burris next time.
 

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Bolt work

I had a similar problem with the firing pin getting tilted up and hitting the outer rim, you can either have it pinned or do the BB trick (there is a pretty good thread on this site from a few weeks back, pictures and all). But in my opinion, getting the machine work done is going to go further in fixing fliers, getting the bolt face squared and whatnot. I have heard CPC is the bomb when it comes to bolt work, I did my own and in some ways I wish I had had a pro do it. Mostly the pain in the *** that it is to do something without the right tools or knowhow.
 

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95% of the fliers I experienced were from the first shot. But I also experienced fliers that were not the manually loaded round...But then again, that could have been me jerking the trigger :D
So, I sent my bolt to Randy at CPC...The result? No more fliers. Not one. He really does great work for only $50...I'm confindent that I could have pinned the firing pin myself, but chose to send it off. I definitely recommend CPC :t
 

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452,

if you are gonna get serious about grouping on the 10/22, send your bolt to randy.
for $50.00 it is one of the best up-grades to do, since your trigger is already in the 2.5 lb range, plus the jewelling is so purty, and is included in the cost. this is after the fact, but wish i had mine done long ago. would have saved a lot of aspirin. lol.








 

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CPC is the beginning

First of all, pinning, blueprinting, and re-profiling your firing pin will help a lot, but it will not totally get rid of fliers. To further reduce fliers, you also have to remove the vertical slop from the bolt, between the receiver roof, and the group rails. THEN, you will see all of the benefits of sending your bolt to Randy. I taught myself to do my own, but on my next project, I would not hesitate to get a bolt done by Randy.
But don't ever say that fliers have been completely eliminated, because that is not the truth. The nature of the ammo is that you will have fliers no matter what you do, in a 10/22, but they can be just occasional fliers, and not a regular problem, IF you get some half decent ammo., and tune the heck out of your rifle.
I have a 22lr action tuned to get my first round flier to hit about 3/4" high at 50 yards, that's a good place for it to be, I figure, it was the re-profiling of the firing pin that brought this feature about. :t
 

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A New 10/22 ?

If you haven't upgraded to an aftermarket barrel with a Bentz chamber, part of your problem may be the Sporter chamber coupled with the quality of ammo you are using. A flier from this combination can occur at any time. Most people have problems with the hand cocked rounds, usually the first out of the magazine, as their fliers. However any hand cocked round can be a problem. All of the above suggestions are basically aimed at the "first round flier", which they should improve if not entirely elimimate, and will make your gun more reliable and fun to shoot overall.

Good luck

sawdust
 

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How bad are the fliers? Bolt work will help with the minor fliers, but if your getting shots going 2" or more away, you've got other problems. What modfications have you done to this 10/22, new barrel?, hammer? Have you tried several brands of ammo, to see if there's a load it perfers? What kind of groups are you getting now? With a 4x scope you are alittle handicapped for shooting groups, but with a good setup (new barrel, target hammer) on a sturdy rest, you should be able to shoot 1" at 50 yards at least with a 4x.
 

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Commons causes of fliers are:
-inconsistencies in loading (caused by manually putting the bolt into battery or something touching the magazine while shooting)
-firing pin slop
-excess headspace
-inconsistent bolt face/breech contact due to a not perfectly square and smooth bolt face
-ammo
-a crappy scope or poorly mounted scope

Reducing headspace will fix the third and fourth problems I listed and pinning the firing pin will fix the second problem.
I did the bolt work myself and believe that the amount Randy at CPC charges would be well worth it. That fixed almost all of my fliers and the fliers I have now are user error ;)

If you sort your ammo by weight and rim thickness it will likely solve your ammo problems.

If the scope is the problem, then you usually won't get fliers but instead will get big groups.
Thats not to say scopes dont cause fliers. Most scopes will have fliers after you adjust them. The only way to get around that is to either buy a really really expensive scope from a good company (high end Leupold, Schmidt & Bender, Ziess, Swarovski, etc) or just shoot a few rounds to settle the scope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What modfications have you done to this 10/22, new barrel?, hammer? Have you tried several brands of ammo, to see if there's a load it perfers?

This is a stock 10/22 Deluxe Sporter with the walnut stock and 18.5" barrel. The only "mod" was installing the trigger group from my old 10/22 which has a 2.25-2.5lb pull.

I have tried a few brands of ammo - the std velocity seems to do well , PMC Scoremaster , Wolf target , Federal std vel and CCI std vel. The CCI has wroked well in a lot of my other guns like my Model 41 Smith and my Shilen barreled 10/22. It has also shown good accuracy in this 10/22 despite the fliers.

At the moment , after all I have read here , I am leaning on sending my bolt to Randy.
 

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If it still has the stock barrel, you'll see more of an improvement with an aftermarket barrel than bolt work, I doubt you will see even a 1% increase in accuracy with a stock barrel........Randy does do a fine job, and I would highly recommend his work after you get a new barrel......
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If it still has the stock barrel, you'll see more of an improvement with an aftermarket barrel than bolt work

I already have an older 10/22 with a Shilen match bull barrel. I agree with you that a barrel change produces the most noticeable increase in accuracy. However ,with my new 10/22 I am sticking with the stock barrel. The potential for very good accuracy is already there if I could get rid of the routine fliers.
 

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In addition to bolt work, setting the chamber back and recrowning the muzzle should give you more accuracy.

I have a friend who used to shoot smallbore competition. One of his rifles is a factory looking 10/22. He has had bolt work, the chamber set back, and the muzzle recrowned and he says the setback and recrown was a bigger improvement than the bolt work.
 
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