Rimfire Central Firearm Forum banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
849 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just picked up a "used" but "like new" condition, 552a autoloader (made in 1979) yesterday for $125. It was really clean. Took it out to the range 2 hours ago, and fired exactly 250 rounds of ammo through it. I AM REALLY IMPRESSED! I had exactly 4 rounds total that did not go "bang" 3 of those 4 were "dud" cartridges and the 4th was a 22 short "target" velocity that sounded "undercharged" when it went off, and therefore did not eject. That's almost 100% reliability!

Bear in mind too, that I purposely used different types of ammo. I shot CCI Standard Velocity, CCI Mini-Mags, and Winchester Dyna-Points, about 140 rounds total, then mixed in 10 CCI high velocity 22 Longs, (that was one of the Failures by the way) but they still cycled.

Then shot 50 rounds of CCI High Velocity 22 Short Hollow-points, followed by 50 rounds of CCI 22 Short Target Velocity.

EVERYTHING WORKED GREAT! What a Magnificent 22 autoloader! And mine is the plain-jane version too boot! Very, very satisfied.


I have the original manual and read about the cleaning procedures, etc, but still would like some advice.

Questions:

1. How do you get the "action" to lock open, in order to use a bore snake to clean the chamber and barrel from the breech forward to the muzzle?


2. Do I need to get a "punch" or can I just use a small phillips head screwdriver to "drift" the drift pins out of the receiver to access the trigger "group" for cleaning?

3. Can you do #2 above very well without useing some sort of "vise" or should I definitely get one of those rifle "bench vise" things used for bench shooting, in order to hold the gun securely whilst, drifting the pins in or out?

4. What do you recommend to thoroughly CLEAN the trigger group area? A Spray type cleaner like Gunscrubber or something else? Or soak in solvent overnight? Do you use a spray type lubricant afterword on the internals?

5. Is it really as simple as the manual makes it sound, to drop down the trigger group, clean it out, and reassemble? Or am I going to end up with springs and pins and crap falling all over the place? I just want to know what to expect, ahead of time.


What else can I say? I FINALLY found a reliable 22 autoloader, that will gobble up shorts, longs or long rifles reliably. I am THRILLED to finally be able to shoot up to 20 rounds of the "shorts" one after another without any feeding problems. It feels like I'm back at a shooting gallery! This is just awesome!

I will wait for you 552 "experts" who have cleaned your rifle dozens of times over, so I can heed your advice, as I want to clean the rifle really well to keep her reliability up to the level that she was at today!

What a great gun!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,255 Posts
Congratulations on the 552 purchase, they are pretty wonderful, fair price for a nice one too. So what if it's the ADL, shoots great. I have a perfect BDL that I seldom shoot because it's so pruddy and because it's all cleaned up.

There is no lock open feature, wish there was.

Yes, get a good set of punches, you will need them.

These are not simple to take down and clean unless you are experienced, but not impossible either, there are springs that must be contained. The trigger group is a snap to remove, but just flush it out with gunscrubber or equilivent do not disassemble. The whole action on mine was packed with dirt and powder residue, but it shot fine. After disassembly and cleaning I just sprayed it with RemOil and blew out the excess with compressed air.

If you are following the instructions in the manual "Disassembly - Barrel and Bolt" lift the forestock slightly when moving it back from the receiver, and when sliding the action bar from the bolt, hold the bolt handle back against the spring tension and slowly release.

Good luck, you have a fine and best of all very reliable rifle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,391 Posts
Congrats on the 552!

1. I use an OTIS kit for the barrel, so you need to hold the bolt open until you get the patch in the barrel. It's a pain, but you will get used to it.

2. I use a tiny watchmaker phillips head driver to take the 2 pins out. You could use a dowel, punch, etc. They will come out easy.

3. I have never needed a vise. They will come out with "body" weight.

4. This just my cleaning procedure. Take the trigger group out only. Spray everything with Break Free. Use toothbrush, Q-Tips, patches with plastic forceps, and then compressed air. Sometimes I use M-PRO7 on the bolt area and repeat the cleaning. I have never thought it necessary to take it down anymore than that. Mr. Murphy looks over my shoulder all the time. Your rifle will tell you when to clean it. It will start getting really fussy after several hundred rounds.

I put a Williams FP-GR peep on it for a while and then just recently swapped it for a Weaver 4x. I needed that peep for my Henry. Mine does not always like standard velocity ammo, inconsistent cycling, so I just stick with Mini-Mags.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
36,633 Posts
DO NOT take it apart further than the manual recommends!! I'm pretty good at that stuff and it took me a couple hours to put it back together. Use a real punch or wooden dowel, it's in such nice condition why would you want be the one that screws that up?

Lastly. Do all your friends a big favor, do not take off the shell deflector on the side of the action. 552's fling brass along way and it hurts. My best friend has had one for 20 years and everybody to the right of that thing gets sprayed. He is very good at picking just the right place to shoot from so you are under a constant shower of brass. It SUCKS and it is rude, nt to mention slightly dangerous.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
:t Congrats, coloradogeezer. Looks like you got a good one there. I picked up my third used one a few months ago and it was a beauty. All have been for under $125.00.

I have dismantled mine so many times it's almost automatic. To clean it with spray cleaners, I cock the asm and push out the 2 pins with a small rounded punch or other similar object. They should come out with hand force since they're held by spring clips. Then I remove the trigger asm and spray clean it and then lightly lube it. I usually just wipe the inside of the receiver from there, but if you decide to spray clean it, be careful of some cleaners that will marr your wood finish. The few times I've spray cleaned the receiver, I've removed the rear stock and covered the front stock...

Here's a trick I use to remove the rear stock. If you notice the screw is way down inside and you have to have a long shank screwdriver. I cut a piece of 1/2" water hose and slipped it over the tip of a large screwdriver. That way it holds the end in the slot and is easier to remove and install.

Almost forgot, sometimes the rubber buffer pad falls out. Just check the Rem parts catalog for orientation.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top