Mine doesn't do that, but it was broke in when I got it. Is it new? It may need a couple of bricks of high velocity ammo through it. Is the hammer pivot pin lubricated?
Can hardly pull Buckmark slide back
How much effort should it take to pull the slide back on a Buckmark with the hammer down? My Buckmark takes a lot of effort, maybe 2 - 3 times more than my 9mm. My 14 year old daughter can pull it back at all.
When I take the slide off, it takes both of my thumbs to cock the hammer.
Is this normal?
When I take the slide off, it takes both of my thumbs to cock the hammer.
Is this normal?
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
I've put about 2000 rounds of CCI minimags through the new Buckmark. Pulling the slide back with the hammer down hasn't gotten any easier.
How do you lube the pivot pin? I've tried spraying some tetra down by the pivot pin. Any other suggestions? Can I stone an area to make cocking the hammer earier?
How do you lube the pivot pin? I've tried spraying some tetra down by the pivot pin. Any other suggestions? Can I stone an area to make cocking the hammer earier?
the buckmark has a hammer...? where?
sorry for being so stoopid.
sorry for being so stoopid.
You're kidding right? Its the thing that is cocked back when the slide moves back. When you pull the trigger, it smacks the firing pin.
It is still very hard to pull the slide back with the hammer down.
It is still very hard to pull the slide back with the hammer down.
You have a Buckmark with an exposed hammer ? Can you post a pic of it ? I have never seen a Buckmark like that. Thanks. Later... Neal
The hammer is in the grip frame. There's a tiny little man holding it and when you pull the trigger, he smacks the primer with it.
i was on the same idea there as Neal...heh a buckmark with an exposed hammer...isnt the trigger pull light and crisp enough?
Mine does the same thing
Just to let you know, my buckmark is also hard to cycle with the hammer down.
With it is cocked and ready to go, it only requires a light pull. However, if it miss fires or I have it stored with the hammer down, it takes a strong pull to cycle the slide.
It has become a little lighter over time, but not much.
I'm not a gunsmith or anything, but your buckmark sounds just like mine.
Just to let you know, my buckmark is also hard to cycle with the hammer down.
With it is cocked and ready to go, it only requires a light pull. However, if it miss fires or I have it stored with the hammer down, it takes a strong pull to cycle the slide.
It has become a little lighter over time, but not much.
I'm not a gunsmith or anything, but your buckmark sounds just like mine.
Its too bad pulling the slide back with the internal hammer down is so hard. My 14 year old daughter wanted to start shooting speed steel silhouettes this year, but can't operate the slide by herself if the hammer is down. Heck, I can hardly pull the slide back. (Has a red dot on top, so you must pinch with your thumb and index finger to get a grip on the slide.)
The Neo is much easier to cock with the hammer down. Are they any good?
The Neo is much easier to cock with the hammer down. Are they any good?
The Walther P22 actually does have an exposed hammer that is easy to cock. It can be shot double action, but in my opinion the length and weight of the DA pull is ridiculous.
It also comes with different sized grip panels for different sized hands.
Many people enjoy shooting them. And they are cool-looking.
It also comes with different sized grip panels for different sized hands.
Many people enjoy shooting them. And they are cool-looking.
Last_Mile2002
Do you have any trouble with it failing to cycle when it fires? If it were as heavy as you say I would think the .22LR cartridge would have trouble pushing the slide back?
The only time I've had trouble pulling the slide back I had just put it back on the pistol after having it apart for cleaning and I'd put it back together incorrectly. I took it back off and then put it together again and it worked fine. Still don't know exactly what I had off kilter. Possibly the rubber bushing as I had just replaced it as well.
//(edited to add) I looked at the manual and remembered what I did. The recoil spring guide rod has a small metal square on it that is called the recoil guide. It slips down into a slot on the top of the slide. two of the corners on the guide are beveled. These bevels should face upward not down into the slide. I turned it the wrong way. Might want to check that. //
Does the gun exhibit any other strange behavior? Trigger real mushy, Trigger real hard to pull, slide won't lock open, doubling, feeding problems, extratction problems, etc?
One other thing you might try if you're not having feeding problems, With the gun UNLOADED and POINTED in a SAFE DIRECTION, pull the trigger and keep it pulled back. Now with the trigger pulled back, try to operate the slide by hand.
Do you have any trouble with it failing to cycle when it fires? If it were as heavy as you say I would think the .22LR cartridge would have trouble pushing the slide back?
The only time I've had trouble pulling the slide back I had just put it back on the pistol after having it apart for cleaning and I'd put it back together incorrectly. I took it back off and then put it together again and it worked fine. Still don't know exactly what I had off kilter. Possibly the rubber bushing as I had just replaced it as well.
//(edited to add) I looked at the manual and remembered what I did. The recoil spring guide rod has a small metal square on it that is called the recoil guide. It slips down into a slot on the top of the slide. two of the corners on the guide are beveled. These bevels should face upward not down into the slide. I turned it the wrong way. Might want to check that. //
Does the gun exhibit any other strange behavior? Trigger real mushy, Trigger real hard to pull, slide won't lock open, doubling, feeding problems, extratction problems, etc?
One other thing you might try if you're not having feeding problems, With the gun UNLOADED and POINTED in a SAFE DIRECTION, pull the trigger and keep it pulled back. Now with the trigger pulled back, try to operate the slide by hand.
I don't knw about "Last_Mile2002"'s Buckmark, but mine has been stiff since I picked it up from the dealer. I've had for 4 years and have thousands of rounds through it. It is still really stiff.
By stiff, I mean hard not impossible to cycle. My other larger caliber semi-auto are not even as hard to cycle.
The stiffness of this initial cycling is not a problem for me, I just wanted "Last_Mile2002" to know that my Buckmark sounds similar to his.
By stiff, I mean hard not impossible to cycle. My other larger caliber semi-auto are not even as hard to cycle.
The stiffness of this initial cycling is not a problem for me, I just wanted "Last_Mile2002" to know that my Buckmark sounds similar to his.
BigMac,
My Buckmark cycles perfectly on all kinds of ammo. I've never had a failure to extract or cycle, but have had a few misfires. It especially likes CCI minimags, only have had two misfires (dead round) in over 2,000 rounds.
Once the internal hammer is cocked the slide is real smooth and takes very little effort to cycle.
nextmayor,
Mine is like yours, hard to cycle the slide with internal hammer down.
None of this was a problem until we started shooting steel competitions. After you are done you, unload, show clear, drop the hammer and holster/case the gun. It dropping the hammer on an empty chamber that causes the problem.
My Buckmark cycles perfectly on all kinds of ammo. I've never had a failure to extract or cycle, but have had a few misfires. It especially likes CCI minimags, only have had two misfires (dead round) in over 2,000 rounds.
Once the internal hammer is cocked the slide is real smooth and takes very little effort to cycle.
nextmayor,
Mine is like yours, hard to cycle the slide with internal hammer down.
None of this was a problem until we started shooting steel competitions. After you are done you, unload, show clear, drop the hammer and holster/case the gun. It dropping the hammer on an empty chamber that causes the problem.
Is dry firing the Buckmark bad?
Sorry for this post, but I like to shoot, but I don't have very much experience.
I thought dry firing an automatic was bad.
What about long term storage? Should I alway release the hammer (pull the trigger) so there is no tension on the springs in the firing mechanism?
Again, sorry for the basic question and hijacking your post, but it seems to fit with what we are talking about.
Thanks
Sorry for this post, but I like to shoot, but I don't have very much experience.
I thought dry firing an automatic was bad.
What about long term storage? Should I alway release the hammer (pull the trigger) so there is no tension on the springs in the firing mechanism?
Again, sorry for the basic question and hijacking your post, but it seems to fit with what we are talking about.
Thanks
Next mayor, you can download a .pdf manual from Browning's website. It should specify whether continuous dry firing is okay. I always drop the hammer before putting a gun in the safe. Good luck and shoot safe.
Another decent shooter out there is S&W's target 22, the slide on it is quite light to pull back. But the thing is a hunk to carry around. Rememer that S&W is back in US hands...
Last Mile. You might try checking the Hammer face and the part of the slide that contacts the hammer. Make sure both surfaces are as smooth as possible. I don't know if the bottom corner of the slide face can be rounded a litlle bit or not. If it can be radiused slightly this may help. Be carefull how much you do. I would have to pull apart my buckmark and look at it to see what else might be affected by this modification. Smoothing everything though should be OK.
nextmayor.
Dry firing any gun is hard on it's internal parts. Harder on some models than others. All guns can take a limited amount of dry firing without any damage. It is always wise to point it in a safe direction and release the hammer prior to storing any firearm.
Centerfire firing pins do not impact directly on anything if you pull the trigger on an empty chamber. The only impacts are usually to the sides of the firing pin hole in the breach face. When dry fired repeatedly on early firearms, this area could be "peened" to the point the metal around the fireing pin hole would actually start to stick out, or weaken or crack. This could cause all sorts of problems. It could also weaken the firing pin to the point where it would break. Modern steals being what they are, this is much less of a problem today, however, if you are going to dry fire alot, such as the "snapping in" that competitive shooters do, you should buy some snap caps. Dry firing once before you put the pistol away, will not apreciable reduce the life of the firearm even if you go to the range once a day, every day, for several years.
RIMFIRE arms are a different story. That is because the hammer is offset so that it will pinch a section of the cartridge rim between the firing pin and the breach face, (shoulder of the chamber.) If there is no cartridge, the steal firing pin will strike the steal breach. This will eventually damage the chamber, the firing pin or both. A lot of modern designs utilize a cross pin through the firing pin that limits how far the firing pin can protrude. The idea being to keep the Firing pin from extending far enough to hit the breach face. The idea has its limits although it does allow you to drop the hammer on an empty chamber before you store the firarm, I wouldn't use it to do a lot of dry firing.
In the long run, if you want to dry fire a lot, the best way is rpobably with a revolver and snap caps. Autos can use them too but they are something of a pain as each time you cycle the slide you have to reinsert the snap cap or keep putting them back in the magazine. I've seen folks remove the extractors of pistols so they could snap in, with out messing with the snapcap. I know of one person who made "dry fire only" firing pins for a 1911 out of a stiff plastic piece with a section of rubber on the end that the hammer struck. Very nice design that cusioned the hammer blow and wouldn't cause any damage to the breach. But revolvers are still easier to work with.
nextmayor.
Dry firing any gun is hard on it's internal parts. Harder on some models than others. All guns can take a limited amount of dry firing without any damage. It is always wise to point it in a safe direction and release the hammer prior to storing any firearm.
Centerfire firing pins do not impact directly on anything if you pull the trigger on an empty chamber. The only impacts are usually to the sides of the firing pin hole in the breach face. When dry fired repeatedly on early firearms, this area could be "peened" to the point the metal around the fireing pin hole would actually start to stick out, or weaken or crack. This could cause all sorts of problems. It could also weaken the firing pin to the point where it would break. Modern steals being what they are, this is much less of a problem today, however, if you are going to dry fire alot, such as the "snapping in" that competitive shooters do, you should buy some snap caps. Dry firing once before you put the pistol away, will not apreciable reduce the life of the firearm even if you go to the range once a day, every day, for several years.
RIMFIRE arms are a different story. That is because the hammer is offset so that it will pinch a section of the cartridge rim between the firing pin and the breach face, (shoulder of the chamber.) If there is no cartridge, the steal firing pin will strike the steal breach. This will eventually damage the chamber, the firing pin or both. A lot of modern designs utilize a cross pin through the firing pin that limits how far the firing pin can protrude. The idea being to keep the Firing pin from extending far enough to hit the breach face. The idea has its limits although it does allow you to drop the hammer on an empty chamber before you store the firarm, I wouldn't use it to do a lot of dry firing.
In the long run, if you want to dry fire a lot, the best way is rpobably with a revolver and snap caps. Autos can use them too but they are something of a pain as each time you cycle the slide you have to reinsert the snap cap or keep putting them back in the magazine. I've seen folks remove the extractors of pistols so they could snap in, with out messing with the snapcap. I know of one person who made "dry fire only" firing pins for a 1911 out of a stiff plastic piece with a section of rubber on the end that the hammer struck. Very nice design that cusioned the hammer blow and wouldn't cause any damage to the breach. But revolvers are still easier to work with.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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